Best bang for the buck, pun intended. $1000-$1500 Factory rifles.

[spdrman]

For a long range mountain rifle my vote would be a T3 lite or superlite, last couple years I've owned a few and helped friends work loads for 6-7 of them and they where all under 1 moa guns, with a 4-16x50 Vortex HS LR and a atlas bipod they weigh 8.5lbs. Hard to beat that packing around, I currently have a T3 Lite 260 that I put a McMillan game scout on, that stock was a couple oz lighter then the factory stock and feels great shooting prone. Sad thing is that gun shoots just as good of groups as my full custom rifle.

 

[907to406]

If your tikka doesn't shoot, before sending it back check the aluminum recoil lug, if there is any damage to it at all (even the slightest show of stress or wear) replace it with the mountain tactical lug and you will be back in business. My 270wsm was showing wear after 40 rounds down the tube. I understand a 243 is a light recoiling rifle but still worth looking into...

 

[mtnwrunner]

If your tikka doesn't shoot, before sending it back check the aluminum recoil lug, if there is any damage to it at all (even the slightest show of stress or wear) replace it with the mountain tactical lug and you will be back in business. My 270wsm was showing wear after 40 rounds down the tube. I understand a 243 is a light recoiling rifle but still worth looking into...

Or get the recoil lug area bedded. Works wonders and all the tikkas that I have had bedded shoot 1/2 moa or better.

Randy

 

[TheCougar]

I will have to check that out when I get back. How much does it cost to bed the recoil lug?

 

[realunlucky]

I will have to check that out when I get back. How much does it cost to bed the recoil lug?

Do it yourself for the price of epoxy

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[907to406]

Or get the recoil lug area bedded. Works wonders and all the tikkas that I have had bedded shoot 1/2 moa or better.

Randy

Very true, but for the price and time it takes to replace the lug with a steel one for the same result as bedding I think that it is the easier route... If I was going with an different stock than the factory one I would for sure glass bed it but for a factory stock and instant gratification I don't think bedding is the best solution.

Either way Tikka is the best bang for the buck. Lots of value for a small price and will have some cash left over for decent glass. Mine shot about .75 MOA with factory Nosler trophy grade 140 AB out of the box. After Jason at Mountain Tactical did his additions I'm getting .5 MOA TO .75 MOA. Just my .02

 

[mtnwrunner]

Very true, but for the price and time it takes to replace the lug with a steel one for the same result as bedding I think that it is the easier route... If I was going with an different stock than the factory one I would for sure glass bed it but for a factory stock and instant gratification I don't think bedding is the best solution.

Either way Tikka is the best bang for the buck. Lots of value for a small price and will have some cash left over for decent glass. Mine shot about .75 MOA with factory Nosler trophy grade 140 AB out of the box. After Jason at Mountain Tactical did his additions I'm getting .5 MOA TO .75 MOA. Just my .02

Never done the steel lug but it for sure would help and I also would get it bedded as well. It would depend on the gunsmith but it is fairly minimal to have the lug and tang areas bedded.

Randy

 

[Elkhunter777]

Tikka t3 all the way!!

 

[GKPrice]

the new T3x is out and the steel recoil lug is one of the upgrades - I have a T3x superlight in '06 that shoots lights out, has the grippiest stock you'll find, steel bolt shroud, mentioned recoil lug is steel - the ONLY thing I would strongly suggest is to still upgrade the recoil pad with a Limbsaver Gen 2 pre-fit pad, it'll make a huge difference in felt recoil

 

[16Bore]

OP....

I've got the 7RM you need in the classifieds. Might even do a layaway plan because I'm just that friggin nice.....

 

[TheCougar]

Right now I'm leaning towards a browning x-bolt stainless long range or a Winchester extreme weather. The x-bolt has a factory stock, is bedded, has a short throw 70 bolt. It is very smooth and it passes the "hold it in the gun shop" test. The Winchester has a Bell and Carlson stock, is bedded, and has a lot of history as a shooter and a good gun. The browning seemed smoother and higher quality when I was comparing the two in the shop. Obviously, that means nothing in the long run. I'm concerned about performance, not looks and polish. The Tikkas are nice, but by the time I bed it and maybe upgrade the stock, I'm spending the same amount of money as the other two rifles, about $1200. Thoughts? I've had good luck with Remington's, but the only thing that fits the bill is the Remington sps with a new bedded stock, again running about the same cost.

 

[16Bore]

Haven't touched a Browning in ages. Tikka is a turn-key deal, stock is very optional. Winchester should be too if you like the BC stock. Remington is generally more turn-wrenches but you forget about the cost of a McMillan stock once you start shooting.

 

[TheCougar]

What do you mean turn-key and turn-wrenches for the tikka and Remington? Too bad you decided to keep your Remington!

 

[16Bore]

Basically with the Tikka you bolt on a scope, zero, and put it back in the safe with 2/3 of a box of ammo to spare. Remington's can be a little finicky with triggers and like bedding. Depends on what your expectations are out of the gate.

 

[Beastmode]

Basically with the Tikka you bolt on a scope, zero, and put it back in the safe with 2/3 of a box of ammo to spare. Remington's can be a little finicky with triggers and like bedding. Depends on what your expectations are out of the gate.

Never realized that Tikkas don't need to be broke in. That's awesome! Most factory guns take me a whole day and 50+ rounds to break in the barrel.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[16Bore]

They are stupid outta the box. If you get your first shot on paper, I'll lay a dollar to a donut that the next two will be within an inch.

 

[GKPrice]

They are stupid outta the box. If you get your first shot on paper, I'll lay a dollar to a donut that the next two will be within an inch.

that's been my normal experience as well ^^^^^^^^^^^^ - as far as barrel "break in", pour about a quart of HOT (not boiling) water down your "freshly cleaned" barrel then clean again and see what comes out on the patches - breaking in a hammer forged barrel is usually about "smoothing out" what can be washed/cleaned out before shooting - Sako and Tikka barrels bore smoothness is legendary

 

[TheCougar]

Man, you guys are slowly convincing my to get a T3, put the mountain tactical kit and a Bell and Carlson stock on it and call it a day! I just wish it was super pretty with a fluted barrel and all the other stuff that probably doesn't matter... does the 24" barrel (compared to the x-bolt and Winchester 26") matter at the 600-800 yard distance?

 

[realunlucky]

Man, you guys are slowly convincing my to get a T3, put the mountain tactical kit and a Bell and Carlson stock on it and call it a day! I just wish it was super pretty with a fluted barrel and all the other stuff that probably doesn't matter... does the 24" barrel (compared to the x-bolt and Winchester 26") matter at the 600-800 yard distance?

Just get the super lite from Cabela's or sportsman warehouse for the fluted barrel


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[TheCougar]

I just bought a tikka t3x SS 7mm. I was considering a Christensen Mesa, but then a sale popped up and I was able to get the tikka for $590 shipped. Can't beat that!