Tikka Nitriding

There’s Gunsmith on LRH that tried nitriding smaller thinner parts on ars and a few other things one being the firing pin and found it weakened thinner smaller parts to much and made them brittle. His handle is BamBam he would know. But from reading about his experiences a few years ago I would guess it’s not a good idea. Aren’t critical parts of most high end triggers coated?
Case depth, the distance into the metal affected by the nitriding, is typically 0.002" to 0.006". It would have to be a pretty tiny part.
 
I realize that and I’m no expert on nitriding. But Nitrea Technologies does coatings for the oil gas, marine, military, aviation, medical, forestry, and automotive industries. This statement is on their website when it comes to issues observed when nitriding firearms/firearms parts

“Some firearm components or hardened features thereof may see a reduction in core hardness owing to the nitriding process temperature (1055°F).”

Even Kreiger barrels has a statement on their website saying they don’t recommend nitriding their barrels. Due to the high temperature the steel is brought up to, which can remove the temper and change groove dimensions and uniformity.

Obviously when done right it’s not an issue on stuff like actions and barrels but it would be interesting to talk with some action companies that offer nitrided actions and ask if their smaller parts are nitrided as well. I know on the few I’ve owned or worked on none of the firing pins were nitrided. But the bolt bodies were. I need to pull my areo Solus bolt apart and look.
 
Quite familiar with nitriding (SBN-QPQ) being in the oil and gas manufacturing industry and managing our supply chain. For those wondering, most procedures I have seen call for a bath temperature of 1050-1100F for 60 to 120 minutes. We routinely treat 410 and 17-4 stainless steels.

In all, I have no concerns with nitriding a Tikka action assuming you are using a reputable vendor. I'm actually going to have someone local we use for work do mine. I'm a bit torn on doing a barrel and have actually reached out to PBB for feedback. I do know the shop I have been talking with does hundreds of barrels every single day. Most of their work is actually for the firearm industry.

I thought about nitriding my barrels in the past. Called and spoke with John Whidden years ago. As he had went through several barrels stainless and nitrided stainless in his Competition gun 243win. After talking with him it didn’t feel like the juice was worth the squeeze. Although he said he got around 500 rounds of additional barrel life with the nitrided barrels. Also said he had went back to just stainless.

Today regarding barrels, I’d rather try Bartlein 400MOD steel before nitriding a barrel.
 
I thought about nitriding my barrels in the past. Called and spoke with John Whidden years ago. As he had went through several barrels stainless and nitrided stainless in his Competition gun 243win. After talking with him it didn’t feel like the juice was worth the squeeze. Although he said he got around 500 rounds of additional barrel life with the nitrided barrels. Also said he had went back to just stainless.

Today regarding barrels, I’d rather try Bartlein 400MOD steel before nitriding a barrel.
I can get barrels done for free. So no squeeze for me, just a decision if I want to void a warranty on a brand new $600-$700 barrel.
 
Here’s where I’m at:
- H and M has a nice “serialized package”
- bolt has to be completely stripped
- they will treat any parts you send from the same gun

My plan is to wait for the barrel and send it and everything that sticks to a magnet from the action and bolt in.
I finally got my barrel. I'm sending out the action, barrel, bolt, bolt stop and bolt handle to be Nitrided.

Planning to leave all the small parts factory unless y'all see an improvement for any of those small parts?
 
I finally got my barrel. I'm sending out the action, barrel, bolt, bolt stop and bolt handle to be Nitrided.

Planning to leave all the small parts factory unless y'all see an improvement for any of those small parts?
I would nitrided the screws. Rusty screw heads bug me.
 
I would nitrided the screws. Rusty screw heads bug me.
Good call, I noticed the UM rings screws rusted fast on my 6.5, probably after the acetone bath.

I may send extractor too but figured beyond the action and bolt its getting a little cosmetic.
 
Good call, I noticed the UM rings screws rusted fast on my 6.5, probably after the acetone bath.

I may send extractor too but figured beyond the action and bolt its getting a little cosmetic.
Interesting as the UM ring screws ar nitrided and no way you are cleaning nitrided off short of something like sand blasting with a hard media.

I think a nitrided chromoly action and a plain stainless bolt would be pretty much ideal. The two different material properties should eliminate any chance of gauling. Plus, nitrided can make stainless more prone to rust (but that gets complicated and I don't think it is always the case).

I had a Sako 85 like that and it was physical impossible for me to make the bolt bind (not the case on a Sako 85 Finnlight, so had to be the nitride).

I cannot remember if @B_Reynolds_AK tikka with nitrided bolt and action was the same, but it was getting very close. So, nothing wrong with nitriding both.
 
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Something seems off. This is from the UM ring page.

"All hardware in nitrided to avoid unsightly rust after field use." Obviously they have a typo but the point is that they are supposedly nitrided and won't rust.
I used wife's gel polish remover, loctite 243 and went hunting. Snow and rain in Maine…on the sprucey plain. Rusty bolts.
 
That's interesting. Since nitride is a treatment and not a coating it seems like acetone wouldn't affect anything.
They probably aren’t.

If you soak them in acetone they turn a dull gray and you can see thru the finish in spots.

After that first set rusted I started spraying new ones with Rem oil after install.
 
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