That is really beautiful work. Do you have a cheering layout in mind yet ?
To darken and give a slightly reddish hue to your white walnut, you might look into using alkanet oil. This gentleman's oil is high quality and used by some of the best English style muzzleloader builders around
SB McWilliams Alkanet
We specialize in alkanet refinishing oil and varnish specifically designed for fine guns but they are used by furniture, guitar and violin craftsman as wellwww.sbmcwilliams.com
You might also look into using Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn sealer as a sealer and stock finish. It is a modified poly varnish that can't be beat for weather resistance.
I used Permalyn as a finish and was pretty disappointed in itTo darken and give a slightly reddish hue to your white walnut, you might look into using alkanet oil. This gentleman's oil is high quality and used by some of the best English style muzzleloader builders around
SB McWilliams Alkanet
We specialize in alkanet refinishing oil and varnish specifically designed for fine guns but they are used by furniture, guitar and violin craftsman as wellwww.sbmcwilliams.com
You might also look into using Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn sealer as a sealer and stock finish. It is a modified poly varnish that can't be beat for weather resistance.
There are some good on the wood finishes out there, with the obvious upside of more waterproofing... Murdoch's Uralkyd 500 floor finish by Sutherland Welles over a couple base layers of their hard sealer is my go to. I've used it to for high traffic tables, and to refinish bow handles. Might be worth a try.Iv been using Alkanet for a while now, my last build I used it for a little hue’ing, pretty cool stuff. The first finish I showed in this thread, was a mix of tru oil and boiled linseed mixed 50/50, then 25% mineral spirits soaked in Alkanet.
I dont think I want to go any more “on the wood” then what the tru oil gives, trying to be borderline, sealed but without on the wood type finish being to thick.
I used Permalyn as a finish and was pretty disappointed in it
Looking good!I appreciate the recommendations on finishes fellas, finishing is a trade in itself im finding. My favourite so far is a tung oil finish, done properly with wet sanding to fill pores, and bare hand rubbing until it burns a layer of skin off ( exaggerating, kinda)
Tbh I always put tru oil in the gimmick category, but after bs’ing with a old time stock maker who’s used it all, tru oil sounds like a great product, either by itself or as a base and modified how one likes his finish.
Another great finisher, for sealing, saturates the whole stock in spar urethane, lets it dry a week or two then sands it down to wood, leaving the pores filled. I can’t help but think though that a guy might get a glitter looking finish maybe, though I can see how that system would seal and harden the wood quite well.
I’m not sure there’s enough time in a lifetime to try them all lol.
Double checking my comb is correct. View attachment 656087
Catching those carbons (5 1/5 pounds roughly, still needs a pad and finish)
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A bit of shaping and sharpening the flow lines, jumping between scrapers files and sandpaper. (may not be in total order)
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Have you heard of a wood finish , oil finish, that you slather on wet, then rub it in with a dowel rod? Not sure the whole process but it
drives the oil in deep and hardens The wood surface.?not sure the product used or how many coats sanded in between .