It wasn’t Talley - it’s apparently me. Scope won’t stay fixed - Update: fixed. Added to first post

BjornF16

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Up to this point, the whole scope has rotated. Turrets were visibly off center without needing to measure.
My “guess”…didn’t torque the Talleys enough.

With wrong Leupolds, maybe not getting full surface contact in rings since the heights are mismatched…might also explain the elevation turret issue you noticed
 
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Yep, looks it. I can’t find that info anywhere on the Leupold site. (I don’t have a Leupold scope so I didn’t use the “find mount” option.)

Select any 30 mm scope in the "find mount" tool and it should give you the right part number. The VX5 and VX6 models are all 30mm tubes.
 
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Bluto

Bluto

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Is it crazier then having a bunch of problems and wasting time and ammo?

If you really are in a time crunch you need to just slap a rail on it and re visit it next year.

Only reason I keep saying take it to a Smith is you are missing something. They should have the know how and tools to figure it out.

It is to me, but it doesn’t matter because I couldn’t get one anyway. I think it’s insane to require a $400 custom manufactured imported mount (for an off the shelf 308.)

I’ll use a different rifle if I have to, but I agree on a rail even if I chop it. The problem with that is, which one (with rings) will mount low enough. I haven’t had any interest so I know nothing about them. It doesn’t bother me to take it to a smith at all. I definitely agree with you. My comment about it just in reference to needing one to mount a scope.

Even the smith I talked to this morning was asking about different MOA rails, etc. He said he can easily machine it into a 2 piece and reblue the cut, etc. But I have no idea what to tell him to order other than - “it’s a hunting rifle in 308. Just a scope mount.”

It never crossed my mind that scope rings for a factory rifle would be an ordeal. But, I also just checked Burris for their pic bases and they’re only available for Rem700, Tikka, A Bolt, and Savage. I would have never guessed that. Just learning, I suppose.
 

sndmn11

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From Talley it shows the ones I have?

View attachment 445140

The talley is correct. There is a difference it appears between the front and rear.

Ditch the torque wrench.

Take the L wrench and put the long end in and turn it with your thumb on the bend and a single finger on the short end as suggested by @Formidilosus

I don't believe that you can hurt that scope with that method of tightening.

There is no reason that the Talley ring-mounts cannot be perfectly functional. They might not be the "best" but they are very serviceable and not a shit show.
 
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Bluto

Bluto

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Wrong leupold mounts

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Ahhh. Makes sense. Yeah, Leupold’s are definitely wrong I see with the “select a mount” website function picture earlier.

To be honest, I never would have ordered those. I thought LT was a weatherby model. “Weathermark LT”. I ordered wrong.
 
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Bluto

Bluto

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The talley is correct. There is a difference it appears between the front and rear.

Ditch the torque wrench.

Take the L wrench and put the long end in and turn it with your thumb on the bend and a single finger on the short end as suggested by @Formidilosus

I don't believe that you can hurt that scope with that method of tightening.

There is no reason that the Talley ring-mounts cannot be perfectly functional. They might not be the "best" but they are very serviceable and not a shit show.

On it. Back to @Formidilosus thread and step by step info on the 24hourcampfire forum.

I have the Talley’s in hand, may as well. It only takes a few rounds for it to surface if it does, so that’s easy enough.

I see the difference in the front vs rear - the screw spacing is significantly different so it seems there’s only one way to get them on.
 
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I hope it all works out for you.

Makes me chuckle and feel bad for you cause I used, a used weaver base for my deeer rifle and turned a 1 piece base into a 2 piece base with a hacksaw and painted the end with a sharpie, and that’s my deer rifle setup that shoots moa for the last 20 years…lol
 

sndmn11

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On it. Back to @Formidilosus thread and step by step info on the 24hourcampfire forum.

I have the Talley’s in hand, may as well. It only takes a few rounds for it to surface if it does, so that’s easy enough.

I see the difference in the front vs rear - the screw spacing is significantly different so it seems there’s only one way to get them on.
Give that wrench some snugness.
 
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Bluto

Bluto

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I hope it all works out for you.

Makes me chuckle and feel bad for you cause I used, a used weaver base for my deeer rifle and turned a 1 piece base into a 2 piece base with a hacksaw and painted the end with a sharpie, and that’s my deer rifle setup that shoots moa for the last 20 years…lol

I’m about to the the same with a dremel if I can figure out a rail haha
 

SDHNTR

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Talley’s aren’t my first choice either but they do work. I have them on several rifles and have for years without issue. I lap them, but that’s just me. I also am not a huge fan of rails and other such tacticool silliness on a hunting rifle, but in a lot of cases they are the best option. They are certainly the easiest to set up, and solid.

Put the Talley’s back on, and use the dogleg wrench and your fingers as has been stated. Also, I know you said you degreased the screws. Make sure you degrease the inside of the rings and the scope tube too.
 

KenLee

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Talley’s aren’t my first choice either but they do work. I have them on several rifles and have for years without issue. I lap them, but that’s just me. I also am not a huge fan of rails and other such tacticool silliness on a hunting rifle, but in a lot of cases they are the best option. They are certainly the easiest to set up, and solid.

Put the Talley’s back on, and use the dogleg wrench and your fingers as has been stated. Also, I know you said you degreased the screws. Make sure you degrease the inside of the rings and the scope tube too.
I have Talleys on 4 300wsm, 2 300wm, and probably over a dozen 7mm-08 to 7 mags. No issues in 13 years
 
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Bluto

Bluto

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Talley’s aren’t my first choice either but they do work. I have them on several rifles and have for years without issue. I lap them, but that’s just me. I also am not a huge fan of rails and other such tacticool silliness on a hunting rifle, but in a lot of cases they are the best option. They are certainly the easiest to set up, and solid.

Put the Talley’s back on, and use the dogleg wrench and your fingers as has been stated. Also, I know you said you degreased the screws. Make sure you degrease the inside of the rings and the scope tube too.
That’s the plan for sure. At least immediate term. I’ll probably go ahead and get that EGW rail that @Fatcamp posted ordered and ready in case. The local smith offered that up first, they tend to like them so no reason I shouldn’t. Then I can just let them hack the tacticool off and be done with it.

Yup, screws were cleaned coarsely and taking an acetone bath right now. I’ll clean them again, the screw holes, ring surfaces and scope tube. There was a little residue from the initial install, so it’ll take a little extra scrub to ge them right.
 

SDHNTR

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That’s the plan for sure. At least immediate term. I’ll probably go ahead and get that EGW rail that @Fatcamp posted ordered and ready in case. The local smith offered that up first, they tend to like them so no reason I shouldn’t. Then I can just let them hack the tacticool off and be done with it.

Yup, screws were cleaned coarsely and taking an acetone bath right now. I’ll clean them again, the screw holes, ring surfaces and scope tube. There was a little residue from the initial install, so it’ll take a little extra scrub to ge them right.
What about Talley steel rings? Have you tried them. Their screw lock detachable rings are bomb proof. Somewhat similar concept to a two piece rail attachment.
 
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