How to install a Tikka Prefit

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Sep 24, 2022
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Wanted to share how I install Tikka prefits:

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1. Wrap the barrel in drywall tap. I use painters tape to tape the drywall tape to the barrel. You can also use toilet paper rolls but sometimes they tear and you smudge the barrel.

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2. Bolt down your vise according to mfg torque. For the Viper Vise which I believe is great value, it is 50 ft-lbs. With Tikka factory barrels you want to get pretty close to the action with where you clamp down.

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3. Wrap the action in drywall tape. Then use an external action wrench and hammer. Once the action wrench is snug onto step 4. I use a Brownells universal external wrench.

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4. Reach back with a carpenter hammer or a 5 pound hammer and slap the handle of the action wrench with that hammer.

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5. It might take a couple whacks depending on how much spinach you eat. Now you can unscrew the factory barrel. I usually take a cloth and wipe down the threads on the factory barrel and the action

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6. Put some lube on the threads of the barrel you plan to install and thread it in. I use the above, you can use anything as long as it does not cause corrosion.

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7. Again wrap the new barrel with drywall tape. Torque as needed.

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8. Insert a Tikka action wrench and torque to what you want. I do 45* because I don't want to beat it off again when the barrel comes off. The internal action wrench is much nicer to use.

*Most people recommend 80-90. I am not recommending 45 this is what I personally do.

That's all it is.
Torque wrench, 3/4" socket, hammer, external action wrench, internal action wrench, lube, barrel vice. If you are doing a single barrel a local gun Smith might make more sense but if you do a lot of swapping this is a great way to go.

Hope this helps someone. I had to dig and ask a lot of questions to do my first Prefit. I just did my 4th and figured I'd make a post of it. It is a 223 wyled from preferred, 1/x28 threads, 20", 1:7 twist, 2.6" oal magazines. hopping to get more range time but spend less money. I also recently picked up a t1x and it shoots amazing.
 
Great write up! I think 45 pounds torque on the new barrel might be a bit low. Everything I've read and done as been to 85-90 lbs. torque on the new barrel. Just a thought. I'm doing a barrel swap tonight!
 
FYI, there is an article out by @Dioni A and a follow up thread on tikka barrel swaps too:


 
Any reason not to use nickel anti-seize on barrel threads?
If using antisieze they recommend the nickle one and not copper. High moly content grease is also something that is recommended. The few I've done I am using the same aero 64 grease as the OP, I had a tube on hand from rebuilding a winch.
 
Great write up! I think 45 pounds torque on the new barrel might be a bit low. Everything I've read and done as been to 85-90 lbs. torque on the new barrel. Just a thought. I'm doing a barrel swap tonight!
45 has worked very well for me, I did 80 in the past and it goes on easier than it comes off. 45 seems to be a sweet spot for frequent swaps. This is not a recommendation just what I do.
 
Great write up! I think 45 pounds torque on the new barrel might be a bit low. Everything I've read and done as been to 85-90 lbs. torque on the new barrel. Just a thought. I'm doing a barrel swap tonight!
Thank you, I revised the post. I do 45 but 80-90 is typically recommended. I do 45 mainly so I can uninstall without using the external action wrench. At 80-90 I had to use the external wrench to break it off.
 
Any reason not to use nickel anti-seize on barrel threads?
I just happen to have 64/33 MS. High temp gun grease works fine too. Anti seize is tricky because you can create a corrosion cell via bringing dissimilar metals into contact. I prefer not to use metal based anti seize or even metal free anti seize out of habit. Metal free has graphite which can cause corrosion on some metals like aluminum. I also happen to have a lifetime supply of 64/33ms and I plan on passing it on to my grandchildren who will also never use anti seize. People use anti seize successfully all the time.
 
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