Would this Be an Okay to Use Torque Wrench for Scope Mounting?

KnightExtreme

Lil-Rokslider
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On a budget so don't have a lot to spend but after dealing with stripped out scope ring screws thought might use a torque wrench and not over tighten the screws?

VEVOR 1/4" Drive Torque Screwdriver Torque Wrench Set

I know there are others probably better quality but for as little I would use one.
Just trying to not be in a similar situation drilling out scope ring screws again.
Thanks
KnightExtreme
 
As long as it’s in inch-lbs, sure, that should be fine.

A pretty easy method when torquing down scope rings, rails, etc is to just to use the proper size allen or torx wrench and just go finger tight, using just your fingers on the long side of the wrench to gently finish tightening. Blue threadlocker, as long as a common brand (say…Loctite) and not expired, should not increase torque values.

Scope ring torque is usually 15-25in-lbs
Scope base (onto picatinny rail) is usually 25-45in-lbs
Bases or rails (into receiver) usually 15-25in-lbs
 
As long as it’s in inch-lbs, sure, that should be fine.

A pretty easy method when torquing down scope rings, rails, etc is to just to use the proper size allen or torx wrench and just go finger tight, using just your fingers on the long side of the wrench to gently finish tightening. Blue threadlocker, as long as a common brand (say…Loctite) and not expired, should not increase torque values.

Scope ring torque is usually 15-25in-lbs
Scope base (onto picatinny rail) is usually 25-45in-lbs
Bases or rails (into receiver) usually 15-25in-lbs
As a young mechanic, I was given this advice and, after it failed me on several occasions (slow learner) i started buying torque wrenches.

Different hands Different strength levels. Even Different touch sensitivity will result in different torques.

Not sure on the Vevor price but go buy a Pittsburgh model at Harbor freight. Watch for sales and coupons. They send a ton. For around $20 plus a 1/4" socket from wherever, you can torque anything. It can be a touch unwieldy unless the rifle is in a vise or you've got 4 hands but it'll work on a budget.
 
As a young mechanic, I was given this advice and, after it failed me on several occasions (slow learner) i started buying torque wrenches.

Different hands Different strength levels. Even Different touch sensitivity will result in different torques.

Not sure on the Vevor price but go buy a Pittsburgh model at Harbor freight. Watch for sales and coupons. They send a ton. For around $20 plus a 1/4" socket from wherever, you can torque anything. It can be a touch unwieldy unless the rifle is in a vise or you've got 4 hands but it'll work on a budget.

Sure, people definitely have different competency levels and ability. I guess my main point is that it’s rare you’ll ALWAYS have the ability to use a torque wrench, so, having the ability to understand the correct size tool so that it is at least significantly harder to over torque your hardware is sometimes a useful skill to develop.

There’s a reason allen wrenches and torx wrenches reduce in length, just like there’s a reason screw driver handles typically reduce in size as their intended screw reduces in size. Same as why a 1/4” ratchet is going to be smaller and shorter than a 3/8”.
 
When I bought a quality torque wrench it changed the game for me. Buy a good one and you’ll be glad you did.

I was actually shocked how badly I was UNDER-tightening things thinking I was going to strip them out…..
 
Looks like remounting scope will be not soon.
Thanks for the posts.
Maybe July or August when I can save some $.
Had to ask.
KnightExtreme
 
As long as it’s in inch-lbs, sure, that should be fine.

A pretty easy method when torquing down scope rings, rails, etc is to just to use the proper size allen or torx wrench and just go finger tight, using just your fingers on the long side of the wrench to gently finish tightening. Blue threadlocker, as long as a common brand (say…Loctite) and not expired, should not increase torque values.

Scope ring torque is usually 15-25in-lbs
Scope base (onto picatinny rail) is usually 25-45in-lbs
Bases or rails (into receiver) usually 15-25in-lbs
If torque specs are dry, anything on them will change the actual torque value acheived. Theres a good handful of accidents and some fatalities due to this with engines.
Not that the stakes are that high here but to drive the point home.

Torque wrenches must also be calibrated at whatever the manufacturers specs for an interval if they're going to be used where bad things will happen if torque vales are off.

But for our purposes the home depot or harbor freight or that vevor one posted will all work. There's youtube videos on how to calibrate at home that is plenty sufficient for scope rings and Newton meter to ft pounds is a simple conversion.
 
If torque specs are dry, anything on them will change the actual torque value acheived. Theres a good handful of accidents and some fatalities due to this with engines.
Not that the stakes are that high here but to drive the point home.

Torque wrenches must also be calibrated at whatever the manufacturers specs for an interval if they're going to be used where bad things will happen if torque vales are off.

But for our purposes the home depot or harbor freight or that vevor one posted will all work. There's youtube videos on how to calibrate at home that is plenty sufficient for scope rings and Newton meter to ft pounds is a simple conversion.

Yes, for a purpose where absolute values were needed, then performing torque dry is the only reliable and repeatable method.

With that said, proper threadlocker, say Loctite 243 blue, that isn’t expired, should allow for torque values that are within a few percentage points of your expected torque, and despite random google claims, Loctite doesn’t recommend just arbitrarily lowering your torque to compensate for a threadlocker. Pretty extensive testing by The Torque Test Channel on Youtube is fascinating to watch regarding some of these prevailing myths and also demonstrating what actual torque values are with threadlockers.

A very interesting note is that expired thread locker can actually significantly reduce torque that is applied.
 
No plans on using "Loctite" that is what got me when a Gunsmith installed the Ring & Scope. Will not use any kind of "Loctitie" when putting a scope on my Knight Rifle ever again. Too Much Trouble getting the Ring Screws removed... (Stripped out All 4!) Had to drill all 4 out! (Lesson Learned...)
KnightExtreme
 
No plans on using "Loctite" that is what got me when a Gunsmith installed the Ring & Scope. Will not use any kind of "Loctitie" when putting a scope on my Knight Rifle ever again. Too Much Trouble getting the Ring Screws removed... (Stripped out All 4!) Had to drill all 4 out! (Lesson Learned...)
KnightExtreme
Never had an issue, especially with the blue loctite.
 
No plans on using "Loctite" that is what got me when a Gunsmith installed the Ring & Scope. Will not use any kind of "Loctitie" when putting a scope on my Knight Rifle ever again. Too Much Trouble getting the Ring Screws removed... (Stripped out All 4!) Had to drill all 4 out! (Lesson Learned...)
KnightExtreme
Red loctite?

I only use loctite on the rail/base into the receiver, and even then it's only the blue. I leave the cross bolts and tube screws dry. They're easy enough to re-check the torque. I am yet to have a screw back out.
 
No plans on using "Loctite" that is what got me when a Gunsmith installed the Ring & Scope. Will not use any kind of "Loctitie" when putting a scope on my Knight Rifle ever again. Too Much Trouble getting the Ring Screws removed... (Stripped out All 4!) Had to drill all 4 out! (Lesson Learned...)
KnightExtreme
Using the proper loctite is important.

Blue or purple is preferable for small fasteners.

What you’re describing sounds like red.
 
No plans on using "Loctite" that is what got me when a Gunsmith installed the Ring & Scope. Will not use any kind of "Loctitie" when putting a scope on my Knight Rifle ever again. Too Much Trouble getting the Ring Screws removed... (Stripped out All 4!) Had to drill all 4 out! (Lesson Learned...)
KnightExtreme

That’s totally fine. Your screws may loosen. You’ll never really be able to be sure they didn’t, and if you do check torque and end up tightening a screw up after you’ve zero’d your gun, you probably won’t see any change in POI, but you’ll be wondering and start doubting.

I’ll be that guy, but if your screws got stripped out, it wasn’t a blue or purple Loctite.
 
That’s totally fine. Your screws may loosen. You’ll never really be able to be sure they didn’t, and if you do check torque and end up tightening a screw up after you’ve zero’d your gun, you probably won’t see any change in POI, but you’ll be wondering and start doubting.
That's what a paint pen is for.
 
OP I can't attest to that particular set but over the last couple years I've ended up with various Vevor branded things and they've all exceeded expectations, water pumps and pole saws and some other things. They seem to be built well and some thought out into them rather than just throwing a cheap set of something together to sell.

Having said all that a FixIt Stix 15-65 inch lbs driver but is a good investment and nice and easy to pack in a ranch bag.
 
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