Revic BLR10b Rangefinding Binoculars

Fritzh20

FNG
Joined
Sep 7, 2023
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I am also on the fence between br4 and glasses or revic glasses or keep current set up 10x42 ta’s
 
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SW Idaho
Wanted to throw a post up on these after getting a pair from the classifieds here.

These things are solid! I’m coming from using 10x SLCs and an Sig Kilo 2200 for the last few years. I’ve ran that combo hard in all conditions from 100° down to single digit temps in sun, rain, sleet, and snow. My experience is that the SLCs are great binos but the range finder can be spotty with any amount of haze, mirage, etc.

The Revics so far are fantastic for everything they incorporate. I’ve ranged trees at 1900y and everything in between fast and easy even in hazy conditions. Glass quality looks really good to me. The SLC is slightly better but to spot many differences between them you have to want to find them.

Also, I timed myself from spotting a target with binos, ranging, using quick math or my drop chart compared to using the Revics and the difference is a lot more than I would have thought. I’m sold.
 

MTWILEY23

FNG
Joined
Oct 11, 2023
Messages
17
Location
MT
So far i really like them. Great glass but not quite as bright in low light as my EL swaros. Have ranged to 3200 yards with them. Seem well built and sturdy.
I’d echo your take regarding optical performance vs EL Ranges I owned previously. That said, definitely a solidly built bino, with best in class ranging capability/feature set. No regrets making the switch.
 

Flyjunky

WKR
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
1,419
Like some others on this thread I’m either getting a set of el’s/sf’s and a br4 or just getting the revics.

For those of you that used to/still have el/sf’s do you think you are loosing any game spotting ability with the revic’s?

Also, are the revics able to accept a mount for tripod?
 

MT_Wyatt

WKR
Joined
Aug 20, 2014
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2,201
Location
Montana
Like some others on this thread I’m either getting a set of el’s/sf’s and a br4 or just getting the revics.

For those of you that used to/still have el/sf’s do you think you are loosing any game spotting ability with the revic’s?

Also, are the revics able to accept a mount for tripod?
If you can get an Aziak clamp on there with the arca foot, I would just do that instead of screwing around with studs etc. Lighter and simpler, and takes the optic restrictions with stud acceptance out of the question (if the aziak works for you).
 

Flyjunky

WKR
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
1,419
If you can get an Aziak clamp on there with the arca foot, I would just do that instead of screwing around with studs etc. Lighter and simpler, and takes the optic restrictions with stud acceptance out of the question (if the aziak works for you).
I have the rrs strap so I’ll just use that.
 

PanhandlePilgrim

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 22, 2018
Messages
260
Thread 'Revic BLR10B vs Vortex fury hd 5000' https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/revic-blr10b-vs-vortex-fury-hd-5000.329916/

This one may get there.
I just got a pair of these today and was able to compare them next to the Sig Kilo 3000s which were very close to the Fury, giving a light edge to the Sigs when I compared those 2 side by side. The Revics definitely have much better glass, they were brighter than the sigs down to the last minutes of light and had a sharper image. So far I am impressed. I can't wait to get these up and running.
 
Joined
May 1, 2021
Messages
476
Trying to get my head wrapped around the BLR10b. I'll be out of cell service most of the time when using it so I don't want to depend on data supplied by the flat phone. I also understand there are details hidden in some of the boxes below, like certain calculations only being done when using vector wind, options for 5 different laser/ranging modes, and developing a profile. The work-flow below looks pretty simple, so I think I'm getting distracted by all the widgits in the phone app, even though I do not need the phone app running all the time.

Does this work flow (especially the data sources) look right?

1699893636812.png
 
OP
Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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Messages
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Trying to get my head wrapped around the BLR10b. I'll be out of cell service most of the time when using it so I don't want to depend on data supplied by the flat phone. I also understand there are details hidden in some of the boxes below, like certain calculations only being done when using vector wind, options for 5 different laser/ranging modes, and developing a profile. The work-flow below looks pretty simple, so I think I'm getting distracted by all the widgits in the phone app, even though I do not need the phone app running all the time.

Does this work flow (especially the data sources) look right?

View attachment 626524


Haha. You haven’t pole vaulted over the mouse turd, you’re building a bridge over it.

That’s generally correct, however the base wind function works fine past 600 yards. In mountainous, broken terrain the wind meters and apps don’t work anyways as there are often multiple wind directions and speeds between you and the target.
The wind speed and direction feeding into an app to give you a wind call is the most over used, and least useful feature on them. It gives a false sense of security and not much more.
 
Joined
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Lowcountry, SC
Haha. You haven’t pole vaulted over the mouse turd, you’re building a bridge over it.

That’s generally correct, however the base wind function works fine past 600 yards. In mountainous, broken terrain the wind meters and apps don’t work anyways as there are often multiple wind directions and speeds between you and the target.
The wind speed and direction feeding into an app to give you a wind call is the most over used, and least useful feature on them. It gives a false sense of security and not much more.

From a practical standpoint, would this series of steps represent a reasonable/practical approach to shooting in windy conditions in the mountains?

1. Range target and dial for solution.

2. Estimate wind, hold based on known wind number, shoot and spot impact.

3. Correct for wind based on impact in mils and shoot again?
 
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Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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From a practical standpoint, would this series of steps represent a reasonable/practical approach to shooting in windy conditions in the mountains?

1. Range target and dial for solution.

2. Estimate wind, hold based on known wind number, shoot and spot impact.

3. Correct for wind based on impact in mils and shoot again?


That is baseline, yes and must be learned and practiced constantly regardless of skill level as missed wind calls are real, and will happen regardless of person.
Shooting well in the wind in broken terrain is not something that is mechanical. It requires experience, and in part a subconscious understanding of what the wind will do. I am not trying to make it mythical, however there is a part to it of measuring and the seeing the wind, and intuitively making a probabilistic determination of what will happen to the bullet. That can only be gained in shooting in really crappy conditions and terrain on a consistent basis.

This is why, from what I have seen with hundreds of shooters and hunters, if someone isn’t shooting multiple thousands of rounds a year in novel field environments in broken terrain, they really shouldn’t be shooting beyond 450’ish to 500 yards.
The Cold Bore Challenge this year showed how few people who believe their on demand range was past 600 yards, missed their first shot at sub 500 yards.
 
Joined
May 1, 2021
Messages
476
Haha. You haven’t pole vaulted over the mouse turd, you’re building a bridge over it.

That’s generally correct, however the base wind function works fine past 600 yards. In mountainous, broken terrain the wind meters and apps don’t work anyways as there are often multiple wind directions and speeds between you and the target.
The wind speed and direction feeding into an app to give you a wind call is the most over used, and least useful feature on them. It gives a false sense of security and not much more.
Thanks @Formidilosus, I need pictures to understand and draw them myself if I have to.

I get what you're saying about the wind. Estimating that is a skill I'm still ramping up and using the gun-number/MPH system is where I'm headed, taking the RFB out of the wind solution. That +/-600 split in the chart comes from one of the Revic videos which indicates that using the manually inputting a complete vector wind turns on parts of the calculator (e.g. jump) that are minor enough to only matter "beyond 600 or 700 yards." I gotta go back through that because maybe that calculation needs to be turned on/off manually.

Anyways, it looks like after using the phone app to build and upload a profile and then manually loading the latitude and elevation, the RFB should be a stand-alone tool.

Next is figuring out the bluetooth connection and when to use the phone app.
 
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Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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Thanks @Formidilosus, I need pictures to understand and draw them myself if I have to.

I get what you're saying about the wind. Estimating that is a skill I'm still ramping up and using the gun-number/MPH system is where I'm headed, taking the RFB out of the wind solution. That +/-600 split in the chart comes from one of the Revic videos which indicates that using the manually inputting a complete vector wind turns on parts of the calculator (e.g. jump) that are minor enough to only matter "beyond 600 or 700 yards." I gotta go back through that because maybe that calculation needs to be turned on/off manually.

Anyways, it looks like after using the phone app to build and upload a profile and then manually loading the latitude and elevation, the RFB should be a stand-alone tool.

Next is figuring out the bluetooth connection and when to use the phone app.

Aerodynamic jump, etc are really esoterical things that cause limited functional inputs/outputs that can be used at hunting ranges. Unless you are shooting animals past the 1,100-1,200 yard ranges, those thing have a tiny effect on hits rates- like 1% generally.


As for the app- build your profile, I use either wind bracket for that rifle at 90°, or the max wind of the day (I’ll explain below), and sync it to the binos. Put the phone and app away.

For the wind, using the wind bracket as the base wind is good, because it is just a quick look to see what your base is for any shot, then you mentally work out multiples of that bracket for the actual wind, and direction. I would highly suggest not using this at all for wind until you are competently able to use wind brackets in your head on the fly and quick.

A bit more advanced- once you can do that, on very windy days- say over two wind brackets, I prefer putting in the max wind at 90° in current conditions. Then it’s easier/faster to use the brackets in my head and the max wind the RF gives and interpolate from them.
 
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Messages
949
This is why, from what I have seen with hundreds of shooters and hunters, if someone isn’t shooting multiple thousands of rounds a year in novel field environments in broken terrain, they really shouldn’t be shooting beyond 450’ish to 500 yards.

So true for me. Big dose of reality the last couple of months for my shooting. I think it's partially due to over confidence with a rifle after spending so much time with my bow this year. But a 400 and in rifle/shooter needs to stay a 400 and in rifle/shooter unless you put in some real time. For me, it doesn't take much wind or range error to create misses outside 450. My shooting notes after this weekend: Practice more!
 
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Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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So true for me. Big dose of reality the last couple of months for my shooting. I think it's partially due to over confidence with a rifle after spending so much time with my bow this year. But a 400 and in rifle/shooter needs to stay a 400 and in rifle/shooter unless you put in some real time. For me, it doesn't take much wind or range error to create misses outside 450. My shooting notes after this weekend: Practice more!

Pretty much sums it up.
 

ShootOkHuntWorse

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 23, 2020
Messages
202
That is baseline, yes and must be learned and practiced constantly regardless of skill level as missed wind calls are real, and will happen regardless of person.
Shooting well in the wind in broken terrain is not something that is mechanical. It requires experience, and in part a subconscious understanding of what the wind will do. I am not trying to make it mythical, however there is a part to it of measuring and the seeing the wind, and intuitively making a probabilistic determination of what will happen to the bullet. That can only be gained in shooting in really crappy conditions and terrain on a consistent basis.

This is why, from what I have seen with hundreds of shooters and hunters, if someone isn’t shooting multiple thousands of rounds a year in novel field environments in broken terrain, they really shouldn’t be shooting beyond 450’ish to 500 yards.
The Cold Bore Challenge this year showed how few people who believe their on demand range was past 600 yards, missed their first shot at sub 500 yards.
Im finding that locating somewhere to shoot that far regularly without shooting over a road or towards one is as hard as making the time to go out and shoot.
 
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