Removing sheaths after years in the freezer

[shader112]

I have a skull that had been in my freezer for 3 years. Had intended on doing a shoulder mount, but after seeing prices decided to just to a euro, but never got around to doing it. This spring I dropped it off with some other stuff to a local guy with beatles. He just contacted me and said my other stuff is done, but he is having issues getting the sheaths off since they are basically freeze dried.

At the time I killed it, I was ignorant and didn't realize the sheaths had to be taken off, let alone ASAP after the kill.

Any tips for getting these things off now?

Thanks!

 

[EdP]

Pronghorn????

 

[TaperPin]

I’ve never taken the horns off, or heard they have to be taken off right away. . . Hmm. . .

 

[shader112]

Pronghorn????

Yep

 

[shader112]

I’ve never taken the horns off, or heard they have to be taken off right away. . . Hmm. . .

Interesting, I heard there is some flesh underneath the sheaths that needs to be removed otherwise they can rot/stink. You haven't had any issues with smell? Did you boil or do beatles?

 

[TaperPin]

Interesting, I heard there is some flesh underneath the sheaths that needs to be removed otherwise they can rot/stink. You haven't had any issues with smell? Did you boil or do beatles?

It might be a beatle thing - boiled skulls soften and release anything that’s dried on. It just caught me off guard since I’ve never heard that. Everything on an antelope stinks, so it wouldn’t surprise me. Lol

 

[idelkslayer]

There is hide and flesh on the bone cores beneath the horn sheath. It will rot and smell terrible if not removed. With such an old skull you could try to put it in a black plastic bag with a little water and let it sit in the sun for a few days to a week. Hopefully that will rehydrate it enough for it to rot a little and slip the horns off. Maybe soak it in water for a few days to rehydrate it before putting in the bag.

Alternatively, you could soak it for couple days to rehydrate it and then do a very low heat simmer until the sheaths twist off.

 

[Dead eye BT]

I would low heat simmer the skull in a couple inches of plain water (keep the horns slightly out of the water), and cover the pot with aluminum foil to contain the steam (unless your pot is tall enough to use a cover). After 45 minutes, take the skull out and try to wiggle the horns off. If no go, give it another 20 minutes over and over until they come off. The steam under the foil is your friend.

Once you have the horns off, set them on a shelf in garage or shed for a good spell to let them dry out. They will stink for a while. After they’re all dried out, slide them back on the skull.

 

[D.Blake]

Fire up the google and type in "taxidermy.net antelope sheaths stuck"

Taxidermy.net is an old forum with tons of great archives. You should find your answer there from professionals.

 

[trevore]

For future reference since this post is old. Take a small drill bit and 1/32 or 1/16 and drill 3-4 holes in the back of the horn. Don't need to go higher than the prong. Soak in water until they rot off. You can add an aquarium heater to keep the temps up a bit.

 

[Marbles]

Beatles will eat horn. So you want to remove them. I would cold soak it to get moisture back in them, them put them in a bag with about 100 degree heat for a few days and see if the will pop off.

 

[HiMtnHntr]

Simmer them with the lower half of the horn submerged. After several hours stick a 2’ foot or so long 2x4 in between the horns from the back. Step on the board and use both hands to twist the horn off. You’ll know if it needs more time.

 

[Erict]

If you've never seen it... Here is a fresh one that was partially simmered at 180 to help remove the bits and loosen the horns. I'd pull it out of the bucket every 15 minutes or so and the horns got looser and looser. You twist them like the throttle on a motorcycle and eventually they twist off. The horn interiors were fairly clean so I just filled them with borax. If you look closely at Pic 2 you will see the rubbery sheath that will rot. The upper 2" or so, the white end, is really rubbery and not supported by bone, the lower black is easily scraped off the bone. The last pic is 95% ready for whitening and reattaching horns.

As others have suggested, rehydrating the interior of the horns should loosen the tissue enough to get the horns off. Good luck.



PICTURE #2