Patched roundball range day

You need to get a new ram rod. At least the wood and pin the end on. I wouldn't trust any kind of glue. You can buy wood blanks from muzzleloader supply dealers. I make up a spare or two. A real range rod is a real plus.
 
You need to get a new ram rod. At least the wood and pin the end on. I wouldn't trust any kind of glue. You can buy wood blanks from muzzleloader supply dealers. I make up a spare or two. A real range rod is a real plus.

Haha. They were ordered within 5min of it happening.
 
These are from the other day. For the PRB guys, what do they look like?

View attachment 986691
From my and common knowledge would say they're ok but the damaged/cut parts could potentially be detrimental to accuracy.

I have not seen a single person, anywhere, that has said it doesn't matter if patches are cut/damaged after shooting.

I haven't tested it in a controlled enough manner myself to say for sure, but I did have a gun that cut patches due to rough/raised burrs on the edges of the lands from crap machining. After fixing that, the accuracy seemed better. Prior to fixing it I'd get occasional fliers way out of the rest of the group. Like something obviously wrong ... Not cherry picking and 3rd groups.

I would like to see a controlled test though. I think to a degree it makes sense. If there is gas leakage around the patch or unequal friction between patch and bore on one side from damage, I would think that could cause big variation in pressure, etc.


I was thinking about this. Does the latch need to be perfectly centered? Or does it just need to cover the ball so that it is contained?
From all I've been able to find, people seem to agree it doesn't matter as long as all sides are covered. I believe there have been tests to determine if it matters.... Even if the sprue being up/down/off center matters, and those said it doesn't. But I can't remember who tested this and don't have a link.

Shot a few rounds with the borrowed rifle late this afternoon. Light wa slow, and it was hard to center the bull, but…
There is definitely a tight spot in front of the breach, going to give it a good scrubbing tonight.


With that, this thing really wants the bore swabbed between shots. 1, it gets very hard to seat the patch and ball past that “ring” if you don’t swab the shots go haywire consistently.

View attachment 988898


Three different things going on here.

These were shot intermixed- blue are all slit swabbed between shots. Yellow is one dry swab between shots, red is no swabbed between shots. I shot a couple shots swabbing (blue), then didn’t swab (red), then swab again (blue). Then, dry swab (yellow), then swab- (blue). Etc.

Not swabbing between shots consistently has the shot going 4-6” high.

View attachment 988899



Made a sight adjustment up, swabbed the barrel, and fired one at 100 yards kneeling against a tree for grits and shins- barley clipped.

View attachment 988900

A few things:

Tight spot in breech after shooting- swiss has the potential to cause a worse fouling ring in the bottom, for whatever reason. I usually use schuetzen which is dirty as all hell in my gun (but does not make a hard ring) and tried swiss this year. After a couple shots, yes there's a crazy hard ring in the bottom and all other who've experienced this agree that when that hard ring forms your accuracy goes to crap... I think it probably changes pressure if it doesn't damage the patch. I have experienced the issue. I do not know how to prevent it other than swabbing it out.

Shots being lower on clean bore - yes a clean bore produces lower MV and I guess lower pressure. I have noticed this with mine with certain loads. With a super tight combo in my two guns it seems to not make as much difference between clean/fouled bore. This is where having a tight enough patch/ball combo and a good lube helps. If it's tight enough, and the patch is moist enough, it will basically wipe the bore each time you load and give the same bore condition each time. I do this because taking the time to swab drives me nuts.


Patches- the prelubed are handy, but using a super tight weave and very strong material supposedly works best for accuracy. There are none of this quality that are prelubed that I know of. Using tighter weave that is stronger material means no gas blow by, which is supposedly beneficial to accuracy. Idaholewis has shown it a couple times in his videos. He'll use precut patches that are thin, but he will double patch... Put a patch over the powder below the patched ball which protects the integrity of the patch on the ball. I haven't tested this myself because I went straight to loading the tightest load I could from the get go. However, I have seen accuracy degrade with damage patches or completely blown patches.

Look into minute men patching. Tightest and toughest stuff I've found. Wash regular cycle, rinse twice, dry medium. Cut strips and then cut at the muzzle using spit for lube to make it easy. https://www.theminute-menpatches.com/ try the 0.018 and 0.020.

Could also find some tight weave duck canvas that measures 0.018-0.020 with calipers when squeezed really hard with one hand. Same thing. Wash and dry.


Here's a large round count group at 100 with a 54 Hawken . 90gr 2f swiss. Wind was gusting so I was trying to hold for that. Without the wind, I can typically put them all in the black. My flintlock is a different story. As soon as I can see out of my right eye again I'll get out and shoot some more large count groups. PXL_20251014_033840632.jpg
 
I haven't tested it in a controlled enough manner myself to say for sure, but I did have a gun that cut patches due to rough/raised burrs on the edges of the lands from crap machining. After fixing that, the accuracy seemed better. Prior to fixing it I'd get occasional fliers way out of the rest of the group. Like something obviously wrong ... Not cherry picking and 3rd groups.



A few things:

Tight spot in breech after shooting- swiss has the potential to cause a worse fouling ring in the bottom, for whatever reason. I usually use schuetzen which is dirty as all hell in my gun (but does not make a hard ring) and tried swiss this year. After a couple shots, yes there's a crazy hard ring in the bottom and all other who've experienced this agree that when that hard ring forms your accuracy goes to crap... I think it probably changes pressure if it doesn't damage the patch. I have experienced the issue. I do not know how to prevent it other than swabbing it out.


The issue near the breech is pretty severe pitting- we used a bore scope and it is obvious. @longrangelead is going to see if he can lap it out.

As for Swiss, I have shot a bit with another MZ and have seen no real issue when not swabbing with it.




Shots being lower on clean bore - yes a clean bore produces lower MV and I guess lower pressure. I have noticed this with mine with certain loads. With a super tight combo in my two guns it seems to not make as much difference between clean/fouled bore. This is where having a tight enough patch/ball combo and a good lube helps. If it's tight enough, and the patch is moist enough, it will basically wipe the bore each time you load and give the same bore condition each time. I do this because taking the time to swab drives me nuts.

That is what I understand and what so far shows in previous shooting with other MZ’s. With this CVA is was just the pitting.



Patches- the prelubed are handy, but using a super tight weave and very strong material supposedly works best for accuracy. There are none of this quality that are prelubed that I know of. Using tighter weave that is stronger material means no gas blow by, which is supposedly beneficial to accuracy.


I’m going to test prelubed versus not heavily.



Idaholewis has shown it a couple times in his videos. He'll use precut patches that are thin, but he will double patch... Put a patch over the powder below the patched ball which protects the integrity of the patch on the ball. I haven't tested this myself because I went straight to loading the tightest load I could from the get go. However, I have seen accuracy degrade with damage patches or completely blown patches.

I will be trying the over powder wad/patch too.


Look into minute men patching. Tightest and toughest stuff I've found. Wash regular cycle, rinse twice, dry medium. Cut strips and then cut at the muzzle using spit for lube to make it easy. https://www.theminute-menpatches.com/ try the 0.018 and 0.020.

Already have some. Thank you.


Could also find some tight weave duck canvas that measures 0.018-0.020 with calipers when squeezed really hard with one hand. Same thing. Wash and dry.


I’m going to try a bunch of different patches, including leather and paper cartridges.


Here's a large round count group at 100 with a 54 Hawken . 90gr 2f swiss. Wind was gusting so I was trying to hold for that. Without the wind, I can typically put them all in the black. My flintlock is a different story. As soon as I can see out of my right eye again I'll get out and shoot some more large count groups. View attachment 995019


I don’t think keeping 10 round groups inside the black of a B8 bull at 100y will prove to be too much for PRB’s and a flintlock.


Appreciate the info man.
 
Grabbed a .45 flinter out of the safe yesterday. Haven't shot this one much and this is the first time putting it on paper. Here were the first 10 at 100yd off of a rest. Wind was 15mph gusting to 25mph. I held center on every shot and the horizontal stringing reflects it (8" horizontal vs 3" vertical spread). Not stoked with this group but it is a start.
IMG_20251231_161341382.jpg
Rifle has 36" douglas xx .45 barrel. Load was as follows:
.445" hand cast ball
.018" spit lubed pillow ticking patch cut at muzzle
70gr 3f goex (2024 production i.e. "New"/ Post Estes Energetics buyout)
Swiss 0b in the pan
No swabbing/cleaning

Going to be shooting this rifle some more in the near future to see what it will do with different loads in calmer conditions. Plan to change the sights soon as well as these are not comfortable for my eyes especially when dim/overcast.
 
The issue near the breech is pretty severe pitting- we used a bore scope and it is obvious. @longrangelead is going to see if he can lap it out.

As for Swiss, I have shot a bit with another MZ and have seen no real issue when not swabbing with it.






That is what I understand and what so far shows in previous shooting with other MZ’s. With this CVA is was just the pitting.






I’m going to test prelubed versus not heavily.





I will be trying the over powder wad/patch too.




Already have some. Thank you.





I’m going to try a bunch of different patches, including leather and paper cartridges.





I don’t think keeping 10 round groups inside the black of a B8 bull at 100y will prove to be too much for PRB’s and a flintlock.


Appreciate the info man.
Awesome. Glad you found the problem.

I'd like to get a 40 or 45 flintlock to try to conquer the flinch. The pan sound and flash and heavy recoil of my 58 makes me flinch quite badly. Best I've done is about 4" at 100 for 10 shots but my flinching makes that not repeatable.
 
Grabbed a .45 flinter out of the safe yesterday. Haven't shot this one much and this is the first time putting it on paper. Here were the first 10 at 100yd off of a rest. Wind was 15mph gusting to 25mph. I held center on every shot and the horizontal stringing reflects it (8" horizontal vs 3" vertical spread). Not stoked with this group but it is a start.
View attachment 995124
Rifle has 36" douglas xx .45 barrel. Load was as follows:
.445" hand cast ball
.018" spit lubed pillow ticking patch cut at muzzle
70gr 3f goex (2024 production i.e. "New"/ Post Estes Energetics buyout)
Swiss 0b in the pan
No swabbing/cleaning

Going to be shooting this rifle some more in the near future to see what it will do with different loads in calmer conditions. Plan to change the sights soon as well as these are not comfortable for my eyes especially when dim/overcast.
I'd be super happy with that with my flintlock. Dang flinching....

Glad to see theres another person here interested in showing what can be done with a flintlock on demand.

If you guys have any suggestions for getting rid of a flinch from the pan sound and flash, I'm all ears. I think it is more that than the recoil, but the recoil definitely doesn't help.
 
This thread has me thinking I might need to get out and see what I can do shooting lefty since it could be months before I can shoot right again.
 
Awesome. Glad you found the problem.

I'd like to get a 40 or 45 flintlock to try to conquer the flinch. The pan sound and flash and heavy recoil of my 58 makes me flinch quite badly. Best I've done is about 4" at 100 for 10 shots but my flinching makes that not repeatable.


Ahhh. Yeah, that’s rough. I’m trying to find the right 36cal a or 40cal. I think I want an Edward Marshall in 40cal, but that seems hard to get in kit form.
 
I'd be super happy with that with my flintlock. Dang flinching....

Glad to see theres another person here interested in showing what can be done with a flintlock on demand.

If you guys have any suggestions for getting rid of a flinch from the pan sound and flash, I'm all ears. I think it is more that than the recoil, but the recoil definitely doesn't help.

I think (we’ll see) I’ll figure the flinch thing out pretty quickly. When the rifle comes in I’ll take some video and see what happens. I’ve taken videos with the cap locks, and even with muskrat caps throwing nonsense out- no flinch.
 
I think (we’ll see) I’ll figure the flinch thing out pretty quickly. When the rifle comes in I’ll take some video and see what happens. I’ve taken videos with the cap locks, and even with muskrat caps throwing nonsense out- no flinch.
I'm sure you will.

What's the timeline on having your gun ready to shoot? Hopefully you have a source for flints. They've disappeared in the last 6 months and are only occasionally available in smaller quantities. I think the only ones available now for the most part are the more roughly shaped ones often called 18th century style flints
 
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