Patched roundball range day

Formidilosus said:
I think (we’ll see) I’ll figure the flinch thing out pretty quickly. When the rifle comes in I’ll take some video and see what happens. I’ve taken videos with the cap locks, and even with muskrat caps throwing nonsense out- no flinch.
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I'm sure you will.

What's the timeline on having your gun ready to shoot? Hopefully you have a source for flints. They've disappeared in the last 6 months and are only occasionally available in smaller quantities. I think the only ones available now for the most part are the more roughly shaped ones often called 18th century style flints
 
HighUintas said:
I'm sure you will.

What's the timeline on having your gun ready to shoot?
Click to expand...

Your guess is as good as mine. I ordered a quick ship kit from Kibler 2 mouths ago….


HighUintas said:
Hopefully you have a source for flints. They've disappeared in the last 6 months and are only occasionally available in smaller quantities. I think the only ones available now for the most part are the more roughly shaped ones often called 18th century style flints
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I have a few coming, but I will definitely need more.
 
Fibreglass rod all the way, if you want to experiment with hard seating … for range only, of course.
 
FrontierGander said:
If you take your time and strip that finish off. You'll discover some real pretty walnut under there.

No stain, just many many coats of Birchwood Casey genuine oil. Slow rust browned barrel. Bedded stock.
View attachment 989089
View attachment 989093
View attachment 989096
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How did you let the barrel slow rust brown? I’ve seen the browning solutions and never like they color but that gun looks amazing.

Currently have a Kibler Colonial on the way and am debating how and if I want to finish the steel pieces or leave them white and let time work them.
 
StorMay05 said:
How did you let the barrel slow rust brown? I’ve seen the browning solutions and never like they color but that gun looks amazing.

Currently have a Kibler Colonial on the way and am debating how and if I want to finish the steel pieces or leave them white and let time work them.
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I left mine in the white with the same idea... You'll probably be half dead before it acquires any acceptable looking patina haha. I'm going to go back and do some of rubbed back rust blue at some point.
 
Get a good Browning solution and research the proper way to do it. I made a rack to hold all my parts to be browned and did it the tub in the spare bath. Hot water in the tub for the humidity. Came out great. You can turn it into a blueing by boiling it after browning.
 
StorMay05 said:
How did you let the barrel slow rust brown? I’ve seen the browning solutions and never like they color but that gun looks amazing.

Currently have a Kibler Colonial on the way and am debating how and if I want to finish the steel pieces or leave them white and let time work them.
Click to expand...
You want to use a good browning solution. Laural Mtn Forge (LMF) is what I've used to good effect. Google LMF Browning Instructions.

Basically the metal needs to be totally degreased. Use a humid area (hot box, bathroom, etc) to develop a really good rust. Rub the rust back (carding) with rough cloth. I've used old demin. Repeat the whole process a few times until the level of brown is like you want. Neutralize the rust and oil well.

You can use the same solution and make a good rust blue. The difference is you pour boiling distilled water in a trough with the barrel and the boiling water does this flash rust thing, but turns it almost black. I did a Lyman Barrel like that and it's pretty tough finish.
 
This thread is epic! I definitely don't need any more rabbit holes to dive down... but diving down I go. Looking forward to any updates!
 
HighUintas said:
You should get one. It's wonderful.
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It's on the list of thing to do. I shot a full custom one my buddies boss had probably 20 yrs ago. It was remarkably accurate and a blast to shoot. They just aren't that common where I'm located. I almost bought a kit gun around 10 yrs ago but a lack of knowledge of where to find supplies kept me from picking it up.
 
I also have an article by Ross Seyfried in an older Handloader magazine that dispels with a lot of the myths about muzzleloading and seems to simplify the process... it actually reminds me a lot of Form's painless reloading process for centerfires.
 
Got a Traditions Kentucky 50cal since the Kibler is apparently never going to ship.

70gr Goex FFg. .490” ball, .015” spit patch.

1768274320830.jpeg



Swapped to 65gr Swiss FFFg, 0.490” ball, .015” ticking spit patch. Overcast and low light. It was hard to determine elevation on the target with the brass front sight.
This is what I was shooting in for the last group-
IMG_2816.jpeg


I don’t think 4”, 10 round groups at 100 yards is going to be a problem at all.
IMG_2810.jpeg


IMG_2811.jpeg




Also, Goex is filthy. Patch on right is after 5 shots of Goex, left is after 10 shots of Swiss-
IMG_2808.jpeg


Goex was like mud in the bore.
 
Formidilosus said:
Got a Traditions Kentucky 50cal since the Kibler is apparently never going to ship.

70gr Goex FFg. .490” ball, .015” spit patch.

View attachment 1002829



Swapped to 65gr Swiss FFFg, 0.490” ball, .015” ticking spit patch. Overcast and low light. It was hard to determine elevation on the target with the brass front sight.
This is what I was shooting in for the last group-
View attachment 1002850


I don’t think 4”, 10 round groups at 100 yards is going to be a problem at all.
View attachment 1002830


View attachment 1002840




Also, Goex is filthy. Patch on right is after 5 shots of Goex, left is after 10 shots of Swiss-
View attachment 1002852


Goex was like mud in the bore.
Click to expand...
Are you using factory irons or aftermarket?
 
HighUintas said:
I'm sure you will.

What's the timeline on having your gun ready to shoot? Hopefully you have a source for flints. They've disappeared in the last 6 months and are only occasionally available in smaller quantities. I think the only ones available now for the most part are the more roughly shaped ones often called 18th century style flints
Click to expand...
I'm sure if you asked around on the Primitive archer forum that a knapper there would be able to sort you out for flints.
 
Man my traditions flintlock was the worst weapon I ever owned. Trigger was about 12# and rough. Flash hole was designed to allow water in and keep the spark out. I believe I threw it away because I couldn't even sell it when I could finally afford an upgrade.

How's the fit of your frizzen to the pan and barrel?
 
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