Getting fletchinf contact, how do i find out where?

[Adam Gibbs]

Mathews phase 4 33, QAD HDX rest. My vanes are getting black scuffs on them and I'm experiencing some erratic arrow flight and impacts. My bareshaft actually seems to shoot better/more consistently than my fletch shafts. What's my best way to go about finding where my fletchings are hitting?

I'm going to assume it's the rest, but my vanes do seem very close to the roller guard.

 

[doncarpenter]

Mathews phase 4 33, QAD HDX rest. My vanes are getting black scuffs on them and I'm experiencing some erratic arrow flight and impacts. My bareshaft actually seems to shoot better/more consistently than my fletch shafts. What's my best way to go about finding where my fletchings are hitting?

I'm going to assume it's the rest, but my vanes do seem very close to the roller guard.

Put lip stick on the edges of your vanes.

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[Mighty Mouse]

Put a tattletale substance (e.g., lipstick, chalk, foot powder spray) on the edges of the vanes and check for marks on the cables, roller guard, rest, shelf, etc.

The roller guard on newer Mathews bows sits pretty close to the string path and it's fairly common to get vane contact with it, especially if you're shooting 3 high profile vanes (e.g., Blazers) with the "cock" vane up (i.e., vanes at 12-4-8 o'clock positions). If this is the case, you could try rotating the nock to put the cock vane horizontal pointing away from the roller guard.

 

[Roam_USA]

If you’re having to tune your rest way inside towards the riser it’s time to shim your cams left (right-handed shooter) with the top hats. It’s all about how you grip your bow and it’s not wrong it just needs to be tuned to your grip. If you’re in the -1 to -2+ on the rest, either flip the top hats to go more left or see if your local bow shop has some to make the adjustment. Hope this helps!

 

[Adam Gibbs]

Thanks for the advice. I'll see what I can find out.