Phase 4 tuning help

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trailblazer75

trailblazer75

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
266
Ok, so you are keeping them in the appropriate pairs I assume. You should have 2 that have a single line and 2 that have double lines. I'm assuming you know this, but just to state it, the pairs will have single and double lines in matching positions. Shim side of the sleeve, center of sleeve, and opposite of shim side of sleeve.
I think we’re saying the same thing here and I’m just not saying it as well as you are. lol. I’ll go through it tomorrow and make sure I’ve got it oriented how you’re describing.
 
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Seems to be a decent response on here to info, so I'll post a good article from Go Hunt. I think its a well written breakdown on the tuning process in a SW bow. Might help people searching in the future.

Also, I believe most if the issues with cam bearings going out are from over torquing. The axle bolts should be snugged, then backed off 1/8 -1/4 turn. I only back off 1/8, but my snug is pretty light, probably 10 inch pounds. I don't have trouble with them loosening, I think the bolts with the factory blue locktite can go in and out half dozen times anyways before you need to worry about it.




Only difference is with the centered cable guard the difference between top/bottom cams adjustment doesn't really exist. The top cam was closer the the cable roller, bottom cam further, so reaction wasn't as quick on the lower cam.
 
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I’m still confused on why you’re changing a tune that you admitted to be good? If the bow wants to shoot with the way it is now, why force it to something else? This all seems counterproductive and backwards. The bow is tuned with good arrow flight and that’s not okay? I would much rather great arrow flight over my fletching pointing a certain way.
 
OP
trailblazer75

trailblazer75

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
266
I’m still confused on why you’re changing a tune that you admitted to be good? If the bow wants to shoot with the way it is now, why force it to something else? This all seems counterproductive and backwards. The bow is tuned with good arrow flight and that’s not okay? I would much rather great arrow flight over my fletching pointing a certain way.
I’ve already accepted that I was wrong here. Lol. I went ahead and just clocked the indicator vane in a touch on all my arrows. I did try to tune the issue out but it’s working fine and is tuned great now so I’ve stopped messing with it. Mathews did say the tracks of the Center guard should be plum to the riser and mine isn’t. So when I get to a press I’ll fix that and see what it does.
 
Last edited:
OP
trailblazer75

trailblazer75

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
266
Seems to be a decent response on here to info, so I'll post a good article from Go Hunt. I think its a well written breakdown on the tuning process in a SW bow. Might help people searching in the future.

Also, I believe most if the issues with cam bearings going out are from over torquing. The axle bolts should be snugged, then backed off 1/8 -1/4 turn. I only back off 1/8, but my snug is pretty light, probably 10 inch pounds. I don't have trouble with them loosening, I think the bolts with the factory blue locktite can go in and out half dozen times anyways before you need to worry about it.




Only difference is with the centered cable guard the difference between top/bottom cams adjustment doesn't really exist. The top cam was closer the the cable roller, bottom cam further, so reaction wasn't as quick on the lower cam.
For the record, you were 100% right. Setting centershot and tuning with top hats not only netted me more clearance but much better flight out of the arrow and vane configuration. I appreciate the help.
 
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