Tuning Driving Me Crazy - PSE EVL 34

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Have you tried ditching those lighted nocks? I honestly hate those things. They are some of the most inconsistent pieces of equipment out there. I’ve had instances of BH not grouping with field points while using those. Change them out and they are shaving off vanes with no other adjustment.

I missed this part.

I hate them as well, except firenock.
 
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TX_Diver

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Didn’t make much difference.

Group wi the the sevr is significantly larger than with FP. Even when I put black Eagle nocks on the BH and leave nockturnal on the FP. Can post pics later. 6/7 in red for field points at 40. 7/13 in red with sevrs.
 
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TX_Diver

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C8BE74D8-57E0-4276-9909-DD38D7A82680.jpeg

You can see the holes from the broad heads in the back. This was a fresh target. Going to drop another half turn for the sake of trying something
 
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TX_Diver

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I did 2 days ago but am not sure how to post a video. I had one flier on video and a few that were good so if I can figure out posting video I'll post one of each.

The nocks may be an issue though.

The black eagle nocks didn't make much difference but I took arrow 10 which was flying all over and put a nockturnal from a different arrow on it. Suddenly arrow 10 is stacking on top of arrow 6 which had been flying well the whole time...

At this point I'm pretty pregnant with them so I'm doubling down and breaking out an unopened pack and ordering some more from amazon. They do fit the string well so if I need to cull some in order to get stuff flying well I will. I already marked the one that wasn't shooting well.

I'm backed out 2 full turns right now too. If I can get the nocks sorted I'll put a turn back into the limb bolts and see where that puts me.
 
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TX_Diver

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The group by my thumb is arrow 10 with the original nock position and then 2 adjustments later.

The group up top is arrow 10 with the intermediate nock position.

After replacing the nock all 4 shots at 40 and 2 at 50 stacked in on top of arrow 6 which is slightly high/right. I'm not worried about POI right now so tomorrow I'll bump the rest a bit to bring the FP and BH together as BH hit about 2" right at 40. The FPs were from a different distance later.

That group is 10 shots with a broadhead all in a reasonable group though which is finally getting somewhere...

92d9aMA.jpg
 
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Wouldn't that show in my field points too? And presumably with the Iron Wills and not just sevrs and VPAs?

No.

Broadheads add wings to the front of your shafts. There's a whole lot of stuff you can get away with both form and tuning wise with a field point that you can't once you add steer on the front.

I solid IW isn't super forgiving, so I find it interesting that it seems the less picky, but there's always oddities. Out of what you shot I'd think Sevrs to be most forgiving, however they are longer and if something odd is happening at release from the string they could magnify it.

Not to double down, but BE nocks tend to be crap.

Check for wiggle in the nock once it's clicked on the string.
 
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TX_Diver

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No.

Broadheads add wings to the front of your shafts. There's a whole lot of stuff you can get away with both form and tuning wise with a field point that you can't once you add steer on the front.

I solid IW isn't super forgiving, so I find it interesting that it seems the less picky, but there's always oddities. Out of what you shot I'd think Sevrs to be most forgiving, however they are longer and if something odd is happening at release from the string they could magnify it.

Not to double down, but BE nocks tend to be crap.

Check for wiggle in the nock once it's clicked on the string.
Ya. It’s weird that the sevr are less forgiving than the IW solids…

When you say wiggle you mean like side to side perpendicular to the string?
 
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Ya. It’s weird that the sevr are less forgiving than the IW solids…

When you say wiggle you mean like side to side perpendicular to the string?

Click them to the string.

Can you rotate the arrow any?

They just tend to produce a fair amount of slop unless you put larger serving on in my experience.

They actually aren't terrible I guess, they just have a wider throat than most nocks. I can have a serving that works with Easton g nocks, Beiters, and GT, but a BE nock will flop around on it.
 
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TX_Diver

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Click them to the string.

Can you rotate the arrow any?

They just tend to produce a fair amount of slop unless you put larger serving on in my experience.

They actually aren't terrible I guess, they just have a wider throat than most nocks. I can have a serving that works with Easton g nocks, Beiters, and GT, but a BE nock will flop around on it.

The nockturnals click on and will rotate without turning the string (not quite freely though, but they aren't extremely loose).

The stock easton nocks click on the string and lock on there. Turning them rotates the whole string.

The black eagle nocks fit like the nockturnals but they are probably 5 years old and I'm down to 4.

If there's a better x nock out there that is larger than the easton X nocks and has 1 or 2 day prime shipping I'd try em though.
 
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For .204 shafts you have:

Bohning A
Easton X
Gold Tip .204 Accu-tough
Beiter Insert (make sure you get the symmetric)

I like Beiter, the plastic isn't brittle, seems pretty forgiving for both nock pinch and serving diameter. They are expensive tho.

You can put pin nocks in and go to a wide range of pin nocks too. Just need to find a nock that fits your serving and loop/nock sets correctly. I like snug, but if you put a shaft with no front weight on and draw back and that shaft is wanting to lift or dance around any you are getting nock pinch.
 
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TX_Diver

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For .204 shafts you have:

Bohning A
Easton X
Gold Tip .204 Accu-tough
Beiter Insert (make sure you get the symmetric)

I like Beiter, the plastic isn't brittle, seems pretty forgiving for both nock pinch and serving diameter. They are expensive tho.

You can put pin nocks in and go to a wide range of pin nocks too. Just need to find a nock that fits your serving and loop/nock sets correctly. I like snug, but if you put a shaft with no front weight on and draw back and that shaft is wanting to lift or dance around any you are getting nock pinch.

I can get the gold tips by Sunday. Have a pack on the way now as a backup to try.

Thanks
 
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TX_Diver

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Numbered every nock a little while ago and put a sevr on a few more shafts. Will shoot after work and start tracking nocks.

Arrows are already numbered.

Lesson learned, 8/1 is too late to start BH tuning!
 

Capra

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You have a lot going on there but the only nock I would consider on an axis shaft is the bohning A nock. Or Beiter. Throw the lighted ones in the trash so that you are never tempted to do it again.

Depending on your timeline to opening day and your game. Shoot the severs. Unless your are hunting elk then then the IWs get the nod. Even then you have the KE to shoot the sever

If the timeline is tight the signt in and just practice exclusively with BH from here on out.
 
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TX_Diver

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Had the IW flying well to 60 with the 3 fletch before I forgot to adjust my site and sent one into the driveway behind my target. 45 minutes in the grass and I never found it. Metal detector will arrive from amazon on Sunday lol.

I'm gonna get my sight tape to 60 or 70 tomorrow and then I'll keep testing and culling nocks. Had 6 good arrow/broadhead combos until I lost one. The sevrs were still flying worse than the IW but they are much better than they were before now.
 
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TX_Diver

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Have the IW flying well to 60 and not awful at 70. Sevr are still barely on target at 50.

Tried the GT nocks on 3 sevr and mild improvement but still not as good as the IW. Gonna carry the whole quiver full of IW solids whereas my initial plan was to have an expandable or 2 in the bottom.
 

NGK808

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Were you ever able to check the timing of your bow? Also the draw length and measure to see if it's within spec? Those are the things I can think of that would change when going to a new string and cable set.

Sounds like your IW's are accurate out to a good distance though, so that's promising!
 
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TX_Diver

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Were you ever able to check the timing of your bow? Also the draw length and measure to see if it's within spec? Those are the things I can think of that would change when going to a new string and cable set.

Sounds like your IW's are accurate out to a good distance though, so that's promising!

I did. Timing and DL both dead on. I have a press and draw board at home so I am able to make adjustments as needed and check frequently.
 
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