I think we’re saying the same thing here and I’m just not saying it as well as you are. lol. I’ll go through it tomorrow and make sure I’ve got it oriented how you’re describing.
Yes that is helpful. I’d never seen that. I’ve always just seen what kind of tear I’ve got and moved top hats to correct it. I’ll see what I can come up with.
wheres that from . super helpful, tagged
Can you post that too?
I second that notion!
www.gohunt.com
I’ve already accepted that I was wrong here. Lol. I went ahead and just clocked the indicator vane in a touch on all my arrows. I did try to tune the issue out but it’s working fine and is tuned great now so I’ve stopped messing with it. Mathews did say the tracks of the Center guard should be plum to the riser and mine isn’t. So when I get to a press I’ll fix that and see what it does.
For the record, you were 100% right. Setting centershot and tuning with top hats not only netted me more clearance but much better flight out of the arrow and vane configuration. I appreciate the help.Seems to be a decent response on here to info, so I'll post a good article from Go Hunt. I think its a well written breakdown on the tuning process in a SW bow. Might help people searching in the future.
Also, I believe most if the issues with cam bearings going out are from over torquing. The axle bolts should be snugged, then backed off 1/8 -1/4 turn. I only back off 1/8, but my snug is pretty light, probably 10 inch pounds. I don't have trouble with them loosening, I think the bolts with the factory blue locktite can go in and out half dozen times anyways before you need to worry about it.
How to tune a Mathews bow with top hat shims
Properly using top hat shims to achieve the perfect bow tune
Only difference is with the centered cable guard the difference between top/bottom cams adjustment doesn't really exist. The top cam was closer the the cable roller, bottom cam further, so reaction wasn't as quick on the lower cam.
