BH 8-10" right @ 50yds......Can they be tuned?

[Redstag20]

If there is that much of a discrepancy between my field points and broadheads, can the broadheads even be tuned without throwing the whole bow out of tune? I am shooting a Mathews Halon 32, 29" draw at 72 lbs. Arrows are Easton D6 FMJ 330s. Field points group and shoot great out to 100yds. It paper tunes with the field tips just fine at 3 and 10 yds. Ive tried Muzzy Trocars and Slick trick magnum 4 blades (even farther right). I have even noticed that a Rage Hypodermic goes slightly right.

I left my bow at the shop last night because they want some time with it to see whats going on. Is it even reasonable to start moving the rest left to group them together or is that asking too much with that much of a difference between BH and field tips?

 

[5MilesBack]

I'll just answer it this way. Last year I took the time to bare shaft tune my PSE Freak. With a few tweaks bare shafts were absolutely perfect in impact and parallel to fletched at 20 yards......consistently. Yet I was not real happy with my shooting. 3D season was the worst I have ever shot. I figured it was me for whatever reason.

I was as frustrated as I've ever been with archery, and I always found it pretty easy. Before hunting season I screwed on one of my 125gr Shuttle T's and shot it at 60 yards. It almost missed my BH target to the right. It was consistently 12" right of FP's but dead on with elevation.

So I adjusted my rest a tiny bit and adjusted my sight a couple times and BAM both were hitting the bullseye at every distance. The bow has been shooting great ever since. I was back in action and back to normal. Yes, you can tune to your BH's and shoot even better than before.

 

[lucascole76]

I'm in the same boat . I will be following this one .


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[jmez]

That Shouldn't be hard to fix. The BH's are hitting right because the bow isn't tuned.

You need to move your rest to the right not the left. Move the rest over 1 mark to the right and then resight in your field points. Once the FP's are sighted in shoot a BH again and I'd bet you will be within a couple inches. Move it half a mark and repeat, should be good.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Do your arrows spin with no smooth in your hand with your broadheads?

 

[cooperjd]

short answer, yes, it can be tuned just fine. paper tuning is not necessarily indicative of your bow being "tuned", it is merely the beginning of the process. i dont' even paper tune with fletched arrows anymore, i feel its not necessary. i tune with a bare shaft.

however, since you're bow is paper tuned, next i'd try walkback tuning.

put a dot near the top of your target, and hang a weighted string such that it crosses the center of your dot. go to 20 yards, shoot at the dot. back up to 30 yards. using your 20 yard pin, shoot at the dot. if your target is tall enough, go to 40y, use your 20y pin, and shoot at the dot. see how the arrows fall. do they all line up around your string? or do they drive diagonally down to one side? if they are diagonally right, adjust your rest to the left just a teeny amount, and vice versa. when they are all in a straight line down, reset your pins to hit the target.

now try your broadheads.

you still may have to make teeny tiny tweaks to your rest to get your bh's to group with fp's, but it can be done. i take a pencil, mark my rest, and move my rest in 1/2 pencil mark increments. it does not take much sometimes...

 

[Jmock97]

Broadheads right of field tips could be a weak spine
Broadhead Tuning

 

[Read1t48]

If his arrows are shooting to the right, I thought he needed to adjust his rest to the left... "Opposites attract" when adjusting rests.
Am I wrong?

 

[Brendan]

BH 8-10" right @ 50yds......Can they be tuned?

Broadheads missing right, move the rest right. Or, tighten left loosen right yokes where possible. (For a right handed shooter, I've never had to think through this for a lefty)

 

[doverpack12]

Have someone at the shop shoot a broadhead and field point. If they hit the same it's your draw length or grip. If draw length is too long your right forearm is angling behind your head and pulling the string into you and causing the arrow to come off the string nock or tail left. Not a. It deal with field points because the fletching pulls the field point over to the left. Broadheads your fletching will pretty much follow the broadhead while trying to steer the arrow, because the broadhead was pointing right at the shot your broadhead impacts right. Same thing could be happening with the grip. Easy way to tell is to have someone else shoot it

 

[lucascole76]

If his arrows are shooting to the right, I thought he needed to adjust his rest to the left... "Opposites attract" when adjusting rests.
Am I wrong?

That's what I thought as well?
If your field tips are to Left of broadheads chase your field tips move your rest Left and if field tips are R chase them R?


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[Slim Jim]

Over the years trying to tune fixed broadheads by adjusting rests, twisting yokes, adjusting windage, etc., just masks the problem. Unless you are using the incorrect spined arrows, it's just not properly tuned. Like cooperjd stated paper tuning fletched arrows at 6 yards doesn't mean it's perfectly tuned. That will usually work for expandables though. Bare shaft tuning at varied yardages with good form will properly tune your bow a lot better.


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[jmez]

Don't you bareshaft tune by moving rests, twisting yokes, adjusting widnage etc?

Broadheads impacting to the right of field points indicates point right, nock left arrow flight. Same as a "left tear" though paper. You correct a left tear by moving the rest to the right, same as when BH's are hitting to the right.

I prefer to use yokes rather than moving the rest. Twist left yoke and untwist right yoke to correct nock left. If your bow doesn't have yokes you can shim the cams also, increase the size of the shim on the left, decrease on the right.

 

[tipsntails7]

Here you go.....View attachment 56029

You chase your Fp's with the rest

Jmez, your right about everything except the direction you move the rest, point right moving the rest right makes the point go farther right, while the reaction is the same, the solution is not.

 

[Brendan]

BH 8-10" right @ 50yds......Can they be tuned?

View attachment 56030Here you go.....View attachment 56029

You chase your Fp's with the rest

Jmez, your right about everything except the direction you move the rest, point right moving the rest right makes the point go farther right, while the reaction is the same, the solution is not.

Sorry, in my experience (right handed shooter) this is wrong, that graphic is wrong. I've tested it and proved it. You move the rest right with every single bow I've tested for a broadhead impacting right of field points. NOT LEFT

Now, I won't rule out the possibility of there being differences in certain cam systems or bow geometries, but I haven't found one yet where it works the other way between Hoyt, Prime, Bowtech or XPedition. I don't think it came from nowhere, but I can't tell you why it's out there. (Shooting fingers? Trad?)

I'll dig up some other links on this, because this exact topic comes up reasonably frequently and I've seen multiple other experienced tuners agree with rest right in this case

With that said - Try it both ways - see what works for you...

 

[Tilzbow]

I always move my rest right when broadheads are hitting left of field points and if that doesn't work I move it left.

 

[Screamrider]

Sorry, in my experience (right handed shooter) this is wrong, that graphic is wrong. I've tested it and proved it. You move the rest right with every single bow I've tested for a broadhead impacting right of field points. NOT LEFT

Now, I won't rule out the possibility of there being differences in certain cam systems or bow geometries, but I haven't found one yet where it works the other way between Hoyt, Prime, Bowtech or XPedition. I don't think it came from nowhere, but I can't tell you why it's out there. (Shooting fingers? Trad?)

I'll dig up some other links on this, because this exact topic comes up reasonably frequently and I've seen multiple other experienced tuners agree with rest right in this case

With that said - Try it both ways - see what works for you...

Brendan is absolutely correct on this one, and this also proves to be one of the most misunderstood aspects of tuning. In my experience, 100% of the time with multiple bows, when BH hits right of field points, you move the rest to the RIGHT. It's a little counter-intuitive, but I have seen a graphical explanation that helps to wrap your head around it - I'll see if I can dig it up.

Like Brendan said though, try both if you feel the need!

 

[jmez]

I used to be a pretty frustrated BH tuner when I was using the Easton guide. I would make the adjustments based on that chart and it would always get worse. I'd then conclude that I had moved the rest too far so start going back the opposite way. Only then would I end up getting my POI the same.

So If i was initially right, my final rest position would end up farther right than where I had started. I never understood why but figured I must have just had it too far to the left to start with. After a lot of reading and experimenting, that tuning guide is wrong IMO. At least for me, it doesn't work that way.

 

[jmez]

For the OP, it isn't hard to do and we are talking small rest adjustments. 8-10 inches at 50 yards will likely be fixed by moving the rest 1/8 of an inch. Move your rest 1/8 each direction and see what happens.

If you try moving it to the left first, I'd recommend shooting at 30 yards and aim as far left on the target as you can.

 

[Jmock97]

Found this explanation on archery talk I does appear the Easton broadheads tuning guide is incorrect

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Quote Originally Posted by enewman View Post
Where in the easton guide does it say for fingers shooters. I thought that where is stated cr. that was compound release. Course I've been known to be wrong once or twice. Thanks
It doesn't say it actually but the evidence is there. This is copied and pasted from a post that I put in another thread last week.

"If you read what the Easton guide says about moving the rest in towards the riser is says "Move the arrow rest or cushion plunger in toward the bow". This would work if we were still using plungers and shooting fingers. Their broadhead tuning guide is for that situation and does not accurately explain how to tune a bow shot with a release and using a rest that supports from the bottom or a drop style rest.

The reason you need to move the plunger in towards the bow when shooting fingers and using a plunger is because the plunger literally pushes the arrow as it passes. So it directs the shaft further away from the riser the farther out you have the rest. A drop style rest or any style rest that supports the arrow from underneath does NOT push the arrow away from the riser. This is why the guide doesn't work for people shooting compounds with releases. The guide would work for compound guys shooting fingers off a plunger style rest and for traditional shooters.

On top of that, if you read through the paper tuning guide and read what it says to do for finger shooters compared to release shooters, you can see that for right and left tears, they are opposite one another. That's because a right tear in paper for a finger shooter indicates a stiff spine reaction. In order to get a stiff spine to shoot more straight off a finger bow, you need to set it more straight to start with. We compound shooters using mechanical release don't need to do that because our arrow flexes vertically when fired so it does not behave the same way that a finger shot arrow will. We can tune a MUCH wider spine range than finger shooters can. We can tune ultra stiff arrows while many recurve guys could never do that, unless they are shooting beyond center risers and have plenty of room to move their rest inward. This further indicates that the broadhead guide is specifically written for finger shooters and not mechanical release shooters.

Another piece of evidence is how the paper tuning guide mentions that for left handed finger shooters, they will have to do opposite changes as a right handed finger shooter. They do not say that for a release shooter because the movements are the same. Then when you go down to the broadhead tuning guide, it also mentions that a left hand finger shooter will need to do the opposite changes as a right hand shooter. This again supports the idea that the broadhead tuning guide is for finger shooters and they simply left off the release shooter guide.

So to summarize, the Easton paper tuning guide details that finger and release shooters need to make exact opposite rest movements to achieve the same results. That's because finger and release shot arrows behave differently. So it stands to reason that release shooters need to do the opposite rest movements than what the broadhead guide details. Unfortunately, Easton left off the broadhead guide for release shooters. It's plain and simple. The only way for the guide to be accurate is if you're shooting fingers."
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