BH 8-10" right @ 50yds......Can they be tuned?

[jmez]

If it comes off tail left or right it will maintain that position regardless of the ossicillation. The oscillation still occurs in the same plane, the arrow will maintain it's original direction. If it is | it osscilates the same as if it is / or \. The original direction doesn't change. Tail left is always going to tear tail left, the magnitude of the tear can change due to osscilation, the original direction will not.

 

[Brendan]

Ill take a bow out of tune and re-tune it. My bow is shooting fixed heads and Fp's to the same spot to 40 as of this moment. so I will move my rest left (outside of centershot) and we will see where we are at. Im not going to touch anything but the rest itself, so no yoke tuning or changing nock level. If I am wrong I have got no problem posting it up, it wouldn't be the first time

Just make a small change - 1/8" left of centershot, then 1/8" right of centershot, then back... That should do it. For the record, I'm not ruling out that you can find a scenario where your method works, I've just never seen it and too many people nowadays are saying the same thing.

Also - just so we're on the same page, I am viewing all adjustments from behind the bow. For a right handed archer - moving the rest right is in towards the riser...

If your way does work - I've been wondering if there's a possible combination of horizontal nock travel and the string power stroke combined with how long the rest stays up, drops away immediately, or if it's a fully supported rest like a biscuit or a blade that could cause different reactions.

With a BH the fletching can't overcome the steering going on in the front as well so you will maintain tail left flight. It may help and be less off course than with a bareshaft but it is still going to maintain a direction in the point and tail.

Actually - not entirely correct, at least in my view. The BH tipped arrow will stabilize in a straight line and eventually fly true exactly the same as the FP tipped arrow except in extreme cases where the vanes can't overcome the broadhead drag. What happens though is that the BH tipped arrow stabilizes on a different line / vector from the bow so it still hits off course.

 

[tipsntails7]

Just make a small change - 1/8" left of centershot, then 1/8" right of centershot, then back... That should do it. For the record, I'm not ruling out that you can find a scenario where your method works, I've just never seen it and too many people nowadays are saying the same thing.

Also - just so we're on the same page, I am viewing all adjustments from behind the bow. For a right handed archer - moving the rest right is in towards the riser...

If your way does work - I've been wondering if there's a possible combination of horizontal nock travel and the string power stroke combined with how long the rest stays up, drops away immediately, or if it's a fully supported rest like a biscuit or a blade that could cause different reactions.



Actually - not entirely correct, at least in my view. The BH tipped arrow will stabilize in a straight line and eventually fly true exactly the same as the FP tipped arrow except in extreme cases where the vanes can't overcome the broadhead drag. What happens though is that the BH tipped arrow stabilizes on a different line / vector from the bow so it still hits off course.

Brendan, However it turns out im excited, and appreciate the call out, as that is how this site should work.

Im a right handed shooter, so we will be on the same page as well.

 

[young7.3]

Interested to see Brendan's results as well


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[rileybassman]

Way to go bringing this one back in guys... this is why i love it here. Very pertinent and excited to see the results. I know for me... i was trying the internet diagrams with broadhead tuning... and was really frustrated because it wasnt working... so i tried opposite ie tail left and moved the rest left... and fixed it right away. I think there are so many variables in the bow, the arrow, the form, etc... moral of the story to me, is to try different things sometimes and it may just resolve the issue... at first i was hesitant to try... because it went against what i was reading, but gave it a shot and it was worth it. YMMV, but at the end of the day, as long as we are all getting in tune, thats all that matters

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[Gumbo]

Can't wait for the results...I was aware there was a bunch of conflicting advice on the interweb; chase field points or move away from them. My broadheads were hitting about 4 inches right of my field tips at 60 yards during my first broadhead tuning session a couple nights ago. I went with what the majority of the websites say to do, i.e. chase the field tips. I moved my rest a maybe 2 millimeters left and my broadheads went left to my field tips. The weird thing is I didn't even have to change my sight. I'm not the best shooter so maybe it is more a form change than the super slight rest adjustment. I don't know, but I am really looking forward to the results. This thread went from a valueless argument to results-based learning. Thanks in advance!

 

[5MilesBack]

Brendan is 100% correct.

Broadheads hitting right, move your rest right.

This is as black and white as turning your limb bolts clockwise increases your draw weight.

Unless it's not.

I've had bows that I had to move the rest for FP's to BH's, and I've had bows where I needed to move the rest for BH's to FP's........all while keeping the arrow in acceptable ranges of "center shot".

So the most simple answer is........move the rest one way and if it gets worse or doesn't change, try the other way. It might be rocket science (without combustion propulsion) but you gotta do what you gotta do to get the bow shooting straight regardless what the charts say, or what all the internet experts say. That's the joy of tuning........doing it on your own and coming to your own conclusions.

 

[Ag111]

I have really enjoyed reading through this thread. Very interesting to see that people are moving the rest in different directions for different reasons. I shot about 100 arrows today broadhead tuning. QAD Exodus and Strickland Helix were impacting 4" right of FPs at 40 yards. The German Kinetic XLs were hitting 8" right at 40 yards. In small increments I moved the rest left (away from riser) and until I actually went a little too far and had the QAD and Helix hitting left of FPs. I then moved rest back in (right) just a hair and got them to stack with FPs. Unfortunately the GK XLs were always hitting right of FPs. Totally baffling to me that he broadhead tuning (chasing the FPS with the rest) worked so well for the QAD and Helix but not the GK XLs. The best I could do with the GKs was get them about 3" right at 40 yards. Could be a spine issue but I am interested to move the rest back to the right to see if that will stack my GKs with the FPs.

 

[Ag111]

It is also likely that the GK XLs with a big 1.5" fixed blade show ALL of my form flaws and are very sensitive to shooting form. Either way I am going to be hunting with the Exodus or Helix since they seem to be more forgiving to form and tuning.

 

[ericl33]

Broadhead tuning is accomplished through manipulating the yoke lengths,
After walk back tuning with field points and bareshaft tuning after that. Unfortunately you need a bow press to properly tune a bow which most guys out there don't have.

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[Read1t48]

This thread has me so confused.
I shoot a Mathews Chill R. Broad heads were shooting 4-6" left of FP's. I called an experienced friend who said opposites attract... If my BH's are shooting left of FP's, I need to move my rest to the right.
Very small increment. So I did. It fixed the problem. BH's and FP's now shoot same spot at a variety of yardages.

I shoot a modern bow with a trigger release. What am I missing? (No sarcasm intended).

 

[5MilesBack]

Broadhead tuning is accomplished through manipulating the yoke lengths,
After walk back tuning with field points and bareshaft tuning after that. Unfortunately you need a bow press to properly tune a bow which most guys out there don't have.

And some guys don't have yokes either.

 

[Redside]

Well, I'm not sure which way works but I have my slick trick viper tricks hitting with my field points out to my max range so I'm happy with that. I ended up moving rest towards BH horizontally and opposite vertically. Thanks for everyone chiming in, it was all helpful.

 

[ericl33]

And some guys don't have yokes either.

In that case-shims!

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[Trial153]

And some guys don't have yokes either.

they only place I want yokes is my eggs

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[Brendan]

My results from today....

2016 Hoyt Carbon Defiant Turbo. 73lb 505 Gr Easton Axis 300 with 125 grain points and 50 grain brass inserts. All testing was done at 30 yards, although I did confirm broadhead shots at 40 and 50 a couple times (no pictures of those groups).

I was in a little bit of a rush, and it was hot as hell and humid, so some shots (especially bare shafts) probably could've been better. Also - this is my backup bow and is "Good Enough", but the tune probably isn't perfect at longer distance yet....


The Bow:

Rest Starting Point:

Starting Group with Fixed Blade, Bare Shaft, and Field Point:

Moved the rest to the right:

Resulting Group with Fixed Blade and Bare Shaft well to the left of the Field Point (Aiming at the Orange Pin, I did NOT re-adjust my sight...)

 

[Brendan]

Moved the rest past center shot to the left (Towards the broadhead, but purposefully over-correcting):

Resulting group with the broadhead and the bare shaft hitting to the right of the field point (swapping the orientation):

Moved the rest to the right (towards the broadhead) to get back to centershot:

Resulting Group:

End to end this took me a bare shaft, a fletched arrow with a field point, and a fletch arrow with a fixed blade broadhead, an allen wrench, and about 20 minutes of my morning...

 

[5MilesBack]

In that case-shims!

I've never had to go that far with my binaries. They always tuned up easily with rest adjustments, and I shoot BH's out to 100 yards. But I usually tune with BH's from the start using a modified walk back. Every time I have finished with that at long range, FP's were dead on as well.

 

[LongWayAround]

My field points were shooting tight groups at 50 yards this weekend. At 30 yards two kinds of broadheads were low and left about six inches both ways. I noticed my rest showed wear on the right side (towards my riser). I moved my rest a little right and got my broadheads hitting in line but still low. Lowering my sight until they hit my point of aim got them zeroed to 50 yards. I checked my field points to 40 and found them to be hitting a couple inches right but with good elevation.

I'll shoot my broadheads again this week to confirm

 

[tipsntails7]

Just an update on this, I'm currently coming out of the mountains as it was deer opener here in California for a tag I have, but I did this on Friday and a full writeup with photo's will be coming tomorrow. But I may need to look up some crow recipes first