Unknown suppressors OG testing

Maybe my strap wrench sucks or i suck at using it but wrench flats are WAY more convenient for me.
I'm in this boat, as well. I've crushed enough oil filters with strap wrenches to feel uneasy about how they apply torque. I'm guessing you'd want the strap on the can about where the threads are, but I have no idea if that's where there's enough internal structure to support it.
 
I like wrench flats better. But use strap wrenches everyday at work. I would definitely put it over the can close to the threads where there’s more material. Filters do crush if they were put on to tight but oil filters have very thin single layer steel walls. In reality if you crushed a suppressor with a strap wrench then it was installed way to tight. You can also get a thin strip of rubber to put in between the suppressor and metal area of the wrench that will be against the strap putting pressure on the suppressor. Only time I’ve needed the wrench flats on my DT cans is if I was running them on Ar15 s because I would torque them slightly more for obvious reasons. I put a very small dab of Eezox on the beginning thread. It’s a very light oil that goes on wet but after it soaks in leaves a dry film so it doesn’t attract debris. May not need it but it can’t hurt when running Ti or Al threads
 
Wrench flats are definitely better for applying a specific torque and not crushing the item, but it gives the user an easy way to over torque and damage. Remember this is titanium, galling is a bitch, there is a non existent diameter to length ratio (D/L) of the "fastener" so there will be non existent elongation, residual tensile force even if you are 1/1 millionth of a turn from tearing the threads out.
 
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Wrench flats are definitely better for applying a specific torque and not crushing the item, but it gives the user an easy way to over torque and damage. Remember this is titanium, galling is a bitch, there is a non existent diameter to length ratio (D/L) of the "fastener" so there will be non existent elongation, residual tensile force even if you are 1/1 millionth of a turn from tearing the threads out.

On a DT can, i can get it plenty tight to not move by hand, no flats needed. The flats are helpful when I need to get damn things off! Needed to put my barrel in a vise to get a hand tightened Nomad XC off using flats recently. Feel a lot better about not dinging up my can by throwing a box end wrench over the flats on the DT adapter.
 
@Eleven
Will second what pods8 said. Having your adapter stick in a a reflex sucks. A drop of rockset is a better option than red loctite if you shoot much. The red stuff releases with heat. The rockset releases of you soak it in water.
If the Loctite gets hot from long strings but you leave it until it cools will it still hold?
 
If the Loctite gets hot from long strings but you leave it until it cools will it still hold?
I’ve used red loctite on some thread adapters and it’s held, but I think the potential for coming loose when it’s hot while firing long strings is what we should be trying to avoid. Rockset is way cheaper than replacing a suppressor and it’s easy to use.
 
I have one for testing also, took it out for the first time yesterday. I agree that fit and finish seems excellent. To be honest the no wrench flats didn’t even enter my mind until I started reading through this thread, I always just put my suppressors on as tight as I can get them with my hand.
I shot mine side by side with my Hyperion k and my stainless jk armament with 4 baffles. All were shot on my 223 tikka. I think the jk may be touch louder, but the Hyperion k and UM are very close in sound to my uncalibrated ear. I will shoot it on my 6.5 next time out and see if anything is more noticeable with a larger cartridge.
I will say that the balance of the rifle is significantly better with the UM can.
I’ll update more as I shoot it more.
If anybody is in the Portland-ish area and wants to see it in person in the next couple weeks you can get ahold of me and I’ll try to coordinate a meet up.
 

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If the Loctite gets hot from long strings but you leave it until it cools will it still hold?

There are MANY different types of Loctite with different working temp ranges, pick the product for your application.

Also, things don't loosen while sitting in the gun safe with out any forces acting on them, they loosen while in service.
 
Keep in mind that thermal loosening and thermal tightening are a thing. Hand-tight when cold can easily end up with a loose suppressor once the can gets hot and thermally expands to different dimensions inside the threads (it's pretty noticeable when it has happened, when your groups suddenly open up).

And if you crank down on it while it's hot, especially with a lot of carbon in there (much of which is atomized lead and copper, with relatively low melting points compared to the steel), it can cinch down on those threads almost like it's welded, once it cools. I've seen guys misidentify this as "carbon lock" in some instances. Often, just getting it hot by shooting it is enough thermal expansion to unscrew the suppressor again by hand (by glove, suppressor cover, etc).
 
Keep in mind that thermal loosening and thermal tightening are a thing. Hand-tight when cold can easily end up with a loose suppressor once the can gets hot and thermally expands to different dimensions inside the threads (it's pretty noticeable when it has happened, when your groups suddenly open up).

And if you crank down on it while it's hot, especially with a lot of carbon in there (much of which is atomized lead and copper, with relatively low melting points compared to the steel), it can cinch down on those threads almost like it's welded, once it cools. I've seen guys misidentify this as "carbon lock" in some instances. Often, just getting it hot by shooting it is enough thermal expansion to unscrew the suppressor again by hand (by glove, suppressor cover, etc).

The "Hot Wrench" is a junky car mechanics best friend.
 
To all the people wanting to debate different types of thread lubricants, torque methods, and various other things that aren’t super related to what the suppressor is about could you make a separate post. I was just trying to share a little bit of information not start a whole separate topic. If I’m off base I’ll just go and delete it, but that’s not what this thread is supposed to be about and this is turning into a sideshow.
 
To all the people wanting to debate different types of thread lubricants, torque methods, and various other things that aren’t super related to what the suppressor is about could you make a separate post. I was just trying to share a little bit of information not start a whole separate topic. If I’m off base I’ll just go and delete it, but that’s not what this thread is supposed to be about and this is turning into a sideshow.
@Dioni A , for future, might be good to set this up in the same format Form uses for the scope evals. A closed review thread for you and then a Q and A section to allow everyone to stim-out about whatever
 
No, not enough material for us to make a 9/16-5/8 adaptor. If the need arose, we could potentially order new tooling to thread cans 9/16-24, but that would ultimately be Unknown Suppressors decision.

Ken
FYI The way AB does their 9/16 to 5/8 adapter is make it longer rather than like a normal reducing bushing with a shoulder. The threaded sections are in separate sections rather than overlapping. Not nearly as clean of a look but it’s a way to tackle the issue too.
 
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