Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Thegman]

I also thought the Solo 300 ball detent spring was causing too much friction in the upper, so I clipped a few coils off the spring and created a bedding for the detent ball into the upper with some Devcon epoxy. It gives a much more solid lockup and moves more smoothly. This was on a Cross Machine Tool UPUR-3A, since I wanted a right side charging handle (I also drilled and tapped Solo BCG to move the handle to the right side).

View attachment 685049View attachment 685050

This seems like a really good idea and probably works very well too. Could you describe the process you used? Looks fairly self explanatory, but you probably learned some tricks along the way.

Now that Solo will be making their own dedicated uppers, I suggested that they build a feature like this into to the machining. I don't know yet if they will, but if not, this could be another way to do it. I'd like to try it out.

 

[JBradley500]

I know you're joking, but I could have used a different adjective. Your red rider screams "built to be light" rather than aesthetics, which isn't something you see online, let alone with the people I hunt with. It got me excited to have something like it myself!

UGLY!?!? I would be deeply offended, but I'm sure you were talking about someone else's builds...

 

[FullyTorqued]

This seems like a really good idea and probably works very well too. Could you describe the process you used? Looks fairly self explanatory, but you probably learned some tricks along the way.

Now that Solo will be making their own dedicated uppers, I suggested that they build a feature like this into to the machining. I don't know yet if they will, but if not, this could be another way to do it. I'd like to try it out.

Sure, step by step:
1) Remove the Solo 300 “gas key” and push the detent ball out the larger end of the hole.
2) Tap out the roll pin (you can replace it with a ground down trigger guard pin if you don’t like reusing roll pins).
3) The ball is pushed by a cylindrical steel plunger. I polished mine to a mirror finish, and cut it in half with a Dremel cutoff wheel. You can be done at this point and put it all back together. If you decide it still has too much friction later you can clip a coil or two off the spring.
4) Mix up the Devcon and apply it in the area shown in my previous photos with a toothpick. Make sure to degrease this area very well with a solvent like acetone or brake cleaner on a q-tip. Apply a release agent to the “gas key” and detent ball. I used silicone spray lubricant and brushed it around with a small paint brush (clear shoe polish may also work).
5) Leave it to dry in battery until the Devcon is hard. I removed the spring on the back of the bolt tail for this. I also ended up clipping that spring in half since it was popping my reduced power detent out too easily, I don’t really see the point of that spring.

 

[Taudisio]

For those of you that are interested in the open gas port, I ran another 100 rounds down the tube. I have no problem shooting a 2” group at 100 yards with the 2 MOA red dot. With the 75gr+ pills and a 200 yard zero, I was hitting the 400 yard plate with intermittent consistency but it was a fun challenge. Definitely out of my ethical hunting range with a red dot. This is definitely a 200-250 yard max rifle in my configuration.

I covered the port with a piece of paper from about 1” above it. The blast blew the paper out of my grip as I suspected it would. Seems to be some powder (or bullet fragments-hard to say) that blasted out, and more than I expected to see. I went to a friend’s shop and we sent a bore-scope down to see if there was any early signs of damage around the port. I did not see anything alarming, granted I am only at ~250 rounds. The photo of the paper is approx a 1.5” square as I cropped it in. The photo of the borescope is coming from the muzzle end, so the farther away end of the port is the chamber side of the barrel.
I don’t know how to post a video, but you can imagine paper being there, a bang and flash, then simultaneously the paper is out of the frame.

 

[robtattoo]

I remember them doing a similar demonstration when I was in the Army Cadets mumblemumble years ago, to show us that blanks could still eff you up if you were stupid. Blew a sheet of paper into very convincing confetti!
I sure as hell wouldn't want my front hand anywhere near it!

If anyone is interested, the carbon tube for my buffer/stock just showed up.

3k Carbon Fiber Tube OD 10 12 14 15 16 18 19 20 21 - 25 26-40mm x 500mm US | eBay

Outside 3K +Inside UD Carbon. - Finish :3K Matte Plain,Matte Twill,Glossy Plain,Glossy Twill. Carbon Fiber Tube Specifications Carbon Fiber Tube Features Carbon Fiber Tube. - Raw Material :Imported Taiwan Or Japan Toray Carbon fiber fabric.

www.ebay.com

It's going to take very little work to insert it into the threads. It needs about 5 thou taking off all around to fit. I'll cut a 1" sleeve to accommodate the butt plate. I was going to use the butt end of the original tube, but the last ¾" of so is very heavy, solid aluminum for the end thread. Don't need that. Epoxy will do just as good.

I have a lighter scope & mounts inbound, but I'm going to head to the range tomorrow & see what it'll do with an old Tasco 4x that's a similar weight.

 

[Taudisio]

I remember them doing a similar demonstration when I was in the Army Cadets mumblemumble years ago, to show us that blanks could still eff you up if you were stupid. Blew a sheet of paper into very convincing confetti!
I sure as hell wouldn't want my front hand anywhere near it!

Well it didn’t blow it into confetti, but I will be even more careful not to get any fingers near the port! It’s a firearm and I don't even own any blanks, so being stupid with it in general is a no-no

 

[180ls1]

I wonder if you cut a finger off an old leather glove and glued it on there if it would last for any period of time. It might do just enough to keep some from coming back at you.

 

[Thegman]

I remember them doing a similar demonstration when I was in the Army Cadets mumblemumble years ago, to show us that blanks could still eff you up if you were stupid. Blew a sheet of paper into very convincing confetti!
I sure as hell wouldn't want my front hand anywhere near it!

If anyone is interested, the carbon tube for my buffer/stock just showed up.

3k Carbon Fiber Tube OD 10 12 14 15 16 18 19 20 21 - 25 26-40mm x 500mm US | eBay

Outside 3K +Inside UD Carbon. - Finish :3K Matte Plain,Matte Twill,Glossy Plain,Glossy Twill. Carbon Fiber Tube Specifications Carbon Fiber Tube Features Carbon Fiber Tube. - Raw Material :Imported Taiwan Or Japan Toray Carbon fiber fabric.

www.ebay.com

It's going to take very little work to insert it into the threads. It needs about 5 thou taking off all around to fit. I'll cut a 1" sleeve to accommodate the butt plate. I was going to use the butt end of the original tube, but the last ¾" of so is very heavy, solid aluminum for the end thread. Don't need that. Epoxy will do just as good.

I have a lighter scope & mounts inbound, but I'm going to head to the range tomorrow & see what it'll do with an old Tasco 4x that's a similar weight.

Looking forward to seeing your end product. Thanks for the experimenting.

I just ordered some 1mm wall CF tubing and a CF clamp. I'm going to use it to see if I can make an inexpensive, simple ultralight handguard. Shooting for sub 3-oz. Won't have it for awhile yet, but I'll see what I can come up with. I might need to go a slightly different direction and use a screw to fasten the tube to the barrel nut, but one idea of the other will work.

I know we're not all trying to come up with the lightest rifle possible, including myself, but as Lego-like as these builds are, it's great to see all the mix-and-match options people are coming up with to meet pretty much any weight goal desired...and not spend a ton of $.

 

[robtattoo]

Looking forward to seeing your end product. Thanks for the experimenting.

I just ordered some 1mm wall CF tubing and a CF clamp. I'm going to use it to see if I can make an inexpensive, simple ultralight handguard. Shooting for sub 3-oz. Won't have it for awhile yet, but I'll see what I can come up with. I might need to go a slightly different direction and use a screw to fasten the tube to the barrel nut, but one idea of the other will work.

I know we're not all trying to come up with the lightest rifle possible, including myself, but as Lego-like as these builds are, it's great to see all the mix-and-match options people are coming up with to meet pretty much any weight goal desired...and not spend a ton of $.

It's very hard NOT to get weight obsessed!
I actually sold an ultralight .308 a few years ago (5lb 6oz Savage) & swore blind I was done trying to be a weight weenie, but this thread dragged me right back. It's as much fun trying to do it on a tight budget too. Hell, I think I'll have more in this SWFA UL than I've got in the rest of the rifle!

 

[Taudisio]

I wonder if you cut a finger off an old leather glove and glued it on there if it would last for any period of time. It might do just enough to keep some from coming back at you.

Glue it onto where exactly?

 

[Thegman]

I wonder if you cut a finger off an old leather glove and glued it on there if it would last for any period of time. It might do just enough to keep some from coming back at you.

A few pages back, StupidLightweight said he tried that. Blew a hole through on the first shot...

 

[robtattoo]

Welp, until my new scope & rings get here, I'm done.
The carbon buffer tube, on a dollars per ounce scale, it's far & away the best lightening mod I've done & it didn't take an hour to fit together.



That's 3 and-a-bit ounce for an hour of work, sacrificing a buffer tube & a $20ish lump of carbon tube.

Here's the finished product & weight:

 

[Thegman]

Welp, until my new scope & rings get here, I'm done.
The carbon buffer tube, on a dollars per ounce scale, it's far & away the best lightening mod I've done & it didn't take an hour to fit together.
View attachment 685989
View attachment 685990
View attachment 685991
That's 3 and-a-bit ounce for an hour of work, sacrificing a buffer tube & a $20ish lump of carbon tube.

Here's the finished product & weight:
View attachment 685994
View attachment 685992
View attachment 685993

Nice job! That stock ended up looking a lot like the Taccom stock I used on my first ultralight. It's the one with the grizzly early in the thread.

 

[Taudisio]

The primary arms 5x micro prism came in today. Just waiting on the barrel! I’d estimate the barrel to be around 22oz, so I’m looking at 3lb 11oz empty. I also finished prepping 300 pieces of 5.56 brass-6x45 and some powder arrived this afternoon. The photo through the scope is a pair of Canadians at about 100 yards away. A huuuuge improvement over the red dot. I should have paid the extra $100 for x-caliber to rush my barrel hahaha

 

[Thegman]

Huh, those look like geese. Most of the Canadians I've seen have been taller than that...ba, dum dum..

Seriously though, how do you like the Primary Arms 5x? It looks pretty good optically, from your picture.

I've been watching for a sale. They had an $80 coupon just before you got yours but I didn't pull the trigger on it back then. After you said you were getting one, I thought I'd wait to read your review.

 

[Taudisio]

Huh, those look like geese. Most of the Canadians I've seen have been taller than that...ba, dum dum..

Seriously though, how do you like the Primary Arms 5x? It looks pretty good optically, from your picture.

I've been watching for a sale. They had an $80 coupon just before you got yours but I didn't pull the trigger on it back then. After you said you were getting one, I thought I'd wait to read your review.

Obviously I haven’t had much time with it, but so far…. It is much clearer that I thought it would be. The eye box is pretty small but not unbearable, and it fits on the rifle nearly perfect with the standard cantilever mount all the way to the rear. It was really fuzzy out of the box, and the eyepiece was stiff so I thought it was stuck that way, but it broke free and is adjusted for my eye now. I can’t even tell the illumination is on until level 3, it goes up to 13 and that was too bright in the full sun. I wouldn’t recommend it to a friend yet, I’d like to put a pile of rounds through it and check the tracking. I got a nice discount (government job), free shipping, and $107 back in “bonus bucks”. With the bonus bucks I paid $233. If it holds zero, is weatherproof, and tracks well, it would be worth the full price to me. I was looking at the horses about 350 yards away at twilight (beyond shooting light), and I was able to see more light through the scope than naked eye and identify each horse. The main chevron really draws my eye and the rest of the clutter takes some focus to pay attention to which is a big plus to me. That’s what I’ve got for the 15 minutes (total) I played with it this evening.

 

[Thegman]

Obviously I haven’t had much time with it, but so far…. It is much clearer that I thought it would be. The eye box is pretty small but not unbearable, and it fits on the rifle nearly perfect with the standard cantilever mount all the way to the rear. It was really fuzzy out of the box, and the eyepiece was stiff so I thought it was stuck that way, but it broke free and is adjusted for my eye now. I can’t even tell the illumination is on until level 3, it goes up to 13 and that was too bright in the full sun. I wouldn’t recommend it to a friend yet, I’d like to put a pile of rounds through it and check the tracking. I got a nice discount (government job), free shipping, and $107 back in “bonus bucks”. With the bonus bucks I paid $233. If it holds zero, is weatherproof, and tracks well, it would be worth the full price to me. I was looking at the horses about 350 yards away at twilight (beyond shooting light), and I was able to see more light through the scope than naked eye and identify each horse. The main chevron really draws my eye and the rest of the clutter takes some focus to pay attention to which is a big plus to me. That’s what I’ve got for the 15 minutes (total) I played with it this evening.

Thanks for the detailed "first impressions". I'll be interested to hear more about it after you've run it for awhile.

These rifles can already be so ridiculously lightweight that the extra weight of a lightweight mount and lightweight scope make the tradeoff equation a little different. Like StupidLightweight mentioned, there may be lower practical limit for longer range shootability, but I haven't seem to hit that for myself, that I can tell yet, anyway. Knowing myself, I'll probably just have to try one out eventually...unless you find it to be lacking some way functionally.

 

[robtattoo]

I just got finished at the range.

Couple of things to note:

It takes a lot of effort to get it into battery. Not always, but sometimes.

It takes a lot of effort to get it out of battery. Nearly always.

If it doesn't go fully into battery, it's a BITCH to get out.

This particular Timney trigger is worse than any milspec I've ever used. It's supposed to be set at 3lb, but it feels much more like 8 or 9! I'm going to blame that & the scope for the fact that it shoots like crap. 3" was the best i averaged, but since I couldn't get a full 10 shots together in a string, it's hard to say.
I'm going to try a different bolt head. I've had issues with nickel boron bolts in the past.

 

[Taudisio]

I just got finished at the range.

Couple of things to note:

It takes a lot of effort to get it into battery. Not always, but sometimes.

It takes a lot of effort to get it out of battery. Nearly always.

If it doesn't go fully into battery, it's a BITCH to get out.

This particular Timney trigger is worse than any milspec I've ever used. It's supposed to be set at 3lb, but it feels much more like 8 or 9! I'm going to blame that & the scope for the fact that it shoots like crap. 3" was the best i averaged, but since I couldn't get a full 10 shots together in a string, it's hard to say.
I'm going to try a different bolt head. I've had issues with nickel boron bolts in the past.

Damn! That is a rough go! Hopefully you can play around with it. I’ve seen others talking about reducing or elimination the extractor spring I believe, earlier in the thread so it chambers easier. But I have zero experience with doing so.

 

[ChrisAU]

I just got finished at the range.

Couple of things to note:

It takes a lot of effort to get it into battery. Not always, but sometimes.

It takes a lot of effort to get it out of battery. Nearly always.

If it doesn't go fully into battery, it's a BITCH to get out.

This particular Timney trigger is worse than any milspec I've ever used. It's supposed to be set at 3lb, but it feels much more like 8 or 9! I'm going to blame that & the scope for the fact that it shoots like crap. 3" was the best i averaged, but since I couldn't get a full 10 shots together in a string, it's hard to say.
I'm going to try a different bolt head. I've had issues with nickel boron bolts in the past.

Sounds like a bolt head or barrel (headspace) issue I'd think.