Tikkas and Suppressors

[Tjv0003]

I plan on adding a can to mine this season

 

[Gadjet]

Theres something rattling around inside of it and I can't get the end cap off, its going back for warranty. Its not particularily quiet or lightweight. For 100.0 or so more you could get a tbac ultra 7 or any number of silencers that perform better. I drank the coolaid with the banish 30 but after getting a few different cans, I wish I'd never bought that banish 30.

I do like my banish 22 better than my DA mask 22, its just as quiet, about 1/3rd of the weight lighter and the full titanium construction makes it much easier to clean than the DA mask.

Thanks for the reply. I was curious because I'm still learning about cans. I have a few Banish Back Countrys That are used mostly on 300 Wins and 6.5 Creeds and really like them. That being said I haven't been around many other brands of cans. I went with the Back Countrys because I wanted cans that were short and light for hunting applications.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I plan on adding a can to mine this season

Better place an order a month or 2 ago if you want it for this fall.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Thanks for the reply. I was curious because I'm still learning about cans. I have a few Banish Back Countrys That are used mostly on 300 Wins and 6.5 Creeds and really like them. That being said I haven't been around many other brands of cans. I went with the Back Countrys because I wanted cans that were short and light for hunting applications.

I believe the back country ones are fully welded right? The banish 30 is "user servicable" like a rimfire can, you can take the end cap off and pop the baffles out to clean. They market that as an advantage but it seems like really its a cost cutting measure as having loose baffles and a cap threaded on is cheaper than actually properly welding titanium like a TBAC or similar can. I think the Backcountry is probably a better product than their banish 30 and like I said the banish 22 seems pretty nice to me. I have not been impressed with silencer centrals customer service once they have your $$$. I may order cans from them in the future but I'll probably avoid the banish line. At least getting a SiCo from them, I could warranty it straight through SiCo if I needed too (same with TBAC or any other company really).

I wanted to get a shorter can to try out so I ended up ordering that Sico Scythe, if the back country was available when I got my banish 30 I'd have gotten it.

 

[Gadjet]

I believe the back country ones are fully welded right? The banish 30 is "user servicable" like a rimfire can, you can take the end cap off and pop the baffles out to clean. They market that as an advantage but it seems like really its a cost cutting measure as having loose baffles and a cap threaded on is cheaper than actually properly welding titanium like a TBAC or similar can. I think the Backcountry is probably a better product than their banish 30 and like I said the banish 22 seems pretty nice to me. I have not been impressed with silencer centrals customer service once they have your $$$. I may order cans from them in the future but I'll probably avoid the banish line. At least getting a SiCo from them, I could warranty it straight through SiCo if I needed too (same with TBAC or any other company really).

I wanted to get a shorter can to try out so I ended up ordering that Sico Scythe, if the back country was available when I got my banish 30 I'd have gotten it.

Yes, the backcountry is fully welded. Only about 5.5 inches and under 8 ounces. I also have a Banish 22 and like it, although it doesn't quiet a rimfire quit as much as I would have expected.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Yes, the backcountry is fully welded. Only about 5.5 inches and under 8 ounces. I also have a Banish 22 and like it, although it doesn't quiet a rimfire quit as much as I would have expected.

None of them quiet a rimfire that much unless you use subsonic ammo. CCI subsonic works well for me, with the CCI quiet ammo, I just hear the bullet hit my steel plate. Even those top of the line rimfire suppressors people love (DA mask 22, TBAC takedown 22) are the same way, neither of them seem to really out perform the banish 22, its pretty basic/old tech at this point when it comes to rimfire silencers. I was pretty surprised too the day I got my banish 22, screwed it onto a t1x then went into the back yard and fired off a regular round....it wasnt that quiet at all.

 

[Gadjet]

None of them quiet a rimfire that much unless you use subsonic ammo. CCI subsonic works well for me, with the CCI quiet ammo, I just hear the bullet hit my steel plate. Even those top of the line rimfire suppressors people love (DA mask 22, TBAC takedown 22) are the same way, neither of them seem to really out perform the banish 22, its pretty basic/old tech at this point when it comes to rimfire silencers. I was pretty surprised too the day I got my banish 22, screwed it onto a t1x then went into the back yard and fired off a regular round....it wasnt that quiet at all.

That answers the question that I've been asking myself as far as whether I should have gone with a different one. I sure wish Tikka would make a stainless 16 inch T1X. We'll see what they unveil at Shotshow.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

That answers the question that I've been asking myself as far as whether I should have gone with a different one. I sure wish Tikka would make a stainless 16 inch T1X. We'll see what they unveil at Shotshow.

Or if the bluing on tikkas was decent. I have a blued ruger 77/22 that dosent have a spec of rust on it after being used in wet conditions and boats for several years. That t1x just gets rusty sitting inside my house.

 

[Gadjet]

Or if the bluing on tikkas was decent. I have a blued ruger 77/22 that dosent have a spec of rust on it after being used in wet conditions and boats for several years. That t1x just gets rusty sitting inside my house.

Yep, not a big fan of the blueing on them, plus I’m kind of a sucker for stainless rifles.

 

[Gadjet]

Or if the bluing on tikkas was decent. I have a blued ruger 77/22 that dosent have a spec of rust on it after being used in wet conditions and boats for several years. That t1x just gets rusty sitting inside my house.

Yep, not a big fan of the blueing on them, plus I’m kind of a sucker for stainless rifles.

 

[Dobermann]

Rokset the muzzle brake.

Slight threadromancy, but to keep it all in one place: Form, for direct-thread cans, do you just hand tighten, use a rubber strap wrench, Rocksett, or something else?

Ray's (X-Ring) video today mentioned a direct-thread can coming loose, and I don't think I've asked what you do before.

And what are your thoughts on anti-seize for this application? I can't recall where I read it some years ago, but someone suggested this use for direct-thread cans ... sounded counterintuitive to me, but they claimed the anti-seize plus strong tightening would ensure that the can wouldn't come off in normal shooting, but would come off with strong hand strength / a rubber strap wrench when needed. I've not yet experimented with this.

 

[Marshfly]

Slight threadromancy, but to keep it all in one place: Form, for direct-thread cans, do you just hand tighten, use a rubber strap wrench, Rocksett, or something else?

Ray's (X-Ring) video today mentioned a direct-thread can coming loose, and I don't think I've asked what you do before.

And what are your thoughts on anti-seize for this application? I can't recall where I read it some years ago, but someone suggested this use for direct-thread cans ... sounded counterintuitive to me, but they claimed the anti-seize plus strong tightening would ensure that the can wouldn't come off in normal shooting, but would come off with strong hand strength / a rubber strap wrench when needed. I've not yet experimented with this.

If your can is one that can be disassembled, you will probably have issues with it if you use anything to lock it to the barrel threads IMHO. I have high temp antisieze on all of the threads on the front and rear caps on my Scythe and if I get the barrel too hot and immediately attempt to remove the can the rear cap will unscrew from the can body before the direct mount threads unscrew from my barrel. It's an issue due to the dissimilar expansion of the titanium can and the steel barrel.

My suggestion is that you give the can a quick snugging with your hand every 10-20 shots or so. But then, the last thing I personally want is a can stuck on a barrel. I use that same high temp antisieze between the can and barrel threads.

 

[atmat]

I just hand tighten suppressors tightly, periodically check while shooting, and remove with some elbow grease once cool. I wouldn’t overthink it.

 

[Formidilosus]

Slight threadromancy, but to keep it all in one place: Form, for direct-thread cans, do you just hand tighten, use a rubber strap wrench, Rocksett, or something else?

Ray's (X-Ring) video today mentioned a direct-thread can coming loose, and I don't think I've asked what you do before.

And what are your thoughts on anti-seize for this application? I can't recall where I read it some years ago, but someone suggested this use for direct-thread cans ... sounded counterintuitive to me, but they claimed the anti-seize plus strong tightening would ensure that the can wouldn't come off in normal shooting, but would come off with strong hand strength / a rubber strap wrench when needed. I've not yet experimented with this.

No anti-seize, hand tighten, then use a wrench and get it tight. They don’t move after that.

 

[77TMK]

Quick related tip, I zero my Tikka (16.5” 308 with Silencerco Omega) with the can on (using an ASR mount), and then fire another group unsuppressed. And maybe even a third ammo. The main zero is my zeroed turrets load, and then I make dope cards for other loads including just unsuppressed where I note the zero offset. AB Quantum makes this easy to write onto range cards. I will adjust my windage (capped) for a different load but not touch the elevation, so if I go from 155 ELDM to 168 TMK, my 100 yard POI will be a little higher or lower, but dialing for anything further has the shift accounted for as well as the offset mentioned on the dope card.