rileybassman
WKR
@Formidilosus what's your experience been with the Hyperion K and would you consider it hearing safe for field work (not range work)?
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I’m not the one you’re asking but I have a Hyperion k and a TBAC 7. Both are on tikkas and both are excellent. I also have a banish 30 but it never gets used much now that I have other stuff.@Formidilosus what's your experience been with the Hyperion K and would you consider it hearing safe for field work (not range work)?
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Mine are 16” barrels so I can run the Ultra7 without being super long.So rather than 18” 6.5 PRC and TBAC 5 I should go 16.5” and TBAC 7.
Trying to do this right from the beginning. I’m really used to how the 22” barrel feels in the woods in a pack and don’t want to add much if any length to that.
The goal is good terminal velocity with the ELDM 147 and the Berger 156 EOL and any reasonable distance. Out to 800 yards or so if I choose to.
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How difficult is it to remove from the can? You can’t just easily separate them?Classic embarrassing flounder on my part today. I put a new TBAC CB on a new rifle without Loktite. Then I put my Ultra 9 on it to see how it looked. When I took off my can I didn’t pay attention and when I got to camp, I realized I took off the CB too - which is now stuck in my can. I will separate them, but not before I head out to hunt. I’m glad I brought double ear pro.
A Raptor 8 will shave 0.7 inches off the length and probably work just as well as the Ultra 7. Add a reflex and without adding length it should work even better.So rather than 18” 6.5 PRC and TBAC 5 I should go 16.5” and TBAC 7.
Trying to do this right from the beginning. I’m really used to how the 22” barrel feels in the woods in a pack and don’t want to add much if any length to that.
The goal is good terminal velocity with the ELDM 147 and the Berger 156 EOL and any reasonable distance. Out to 800 yards or so if I choose to.
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Not with the limited resources and tools I have available. I tried with a finger. No dice. I’m reluctant to eff up the threads on the CB. I can spin it back on the new rifle and Loktite, but not until tomorrow after the hunt.How difficult is it to remove from the can? You can’t just easily separate them?
Isn’t that all TBAC does when you buy a direct thread silencer??? They just loctite a cb into the can.Not with the limited resources and tools I have available. I tried with a finger. No dice. I’m reluctant to eff up the threads on the CB. I can spin it back on the new rifle and Loktite, but not until tomorrow after the hunt.View attachment 619505
I don’t know. It’s irrelevant to my situation.Isn’t that all TBAC does when you buy a direct thread silencer??? They just loctite a cb into the can.
Yeah I think your only way out is to loctite back on your rifle.Not with the limited resources and tools I have available. I tried with a finger. No dice. I’m reluctant to eff up the threads on the CB. I can spin it back on the new rifle and Loktite, but not until tomorrow after the hunt.View attachment 619505
That’s a bummer dude. Sorry it’s impacting your hunt.Not with the limited resources and tools I have available. I tried with a finger. No dice. I’m reluctant to eff up the threads on the CB. I can spin it back on the new rifle and Loktite, but not until tomorrow after the hunt.View attachment 619505
Thanks man. But it’s a good reminder of trying harder not to be an idiot.That’s a bummer dude. Sorry it’s impacting your hunt.
A Raptor 8 will shave 0.7 inches off the length and probably work just as well as the Ultra 7. Add a reflex and without adding length it should work even better.
That 1.5 inches at worse will cost you 75 fps, which is about 100 yards of effective range playing with Applied Ballistics.
If 800 yards is important, and you want to stay over 1800 fps, a 7mm like the 7 SAUM or 284 win will get more range without ridiculous recoil (not a great choice if you don't reload). Of course, a 223 can kill an elk at 800, so the 1800 fps may or may not matter to you.
Now that I am set up to roll my own, suddenly cartridges I dismissed out of hand due to availability are on the table.
My wife reminds me daily, amigo.Thanks man. But it’s a good reminder of trying harder not to be an idiot.
Interesting, Applied Ballistics does not put it nearly that far, I tried both G1 and G7 drag models. That is at a baro of 29.92, 1:8 twist.It seems the 156 EOL will get 2650ish out of a 16.5” barrel PRC. Shooter puts that above 1800 to 850 so that’s money.
I don’t currently reload but it is on the future menu. I just don’t want to rely on that from the get go.
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Interesting, Applied Ballistics does not put it nearly that far, I tried both G1 and G7 drag models. That is at a baro of 29.92, 1:8 twist.
I even purchased the custom drag model to see if that changed the outcome (it does not).
This is with the custom drag model on the 156 gr EOL.
View attachment 619531
Yep, 7000 ft gets you to 890 yards.Might be a DA thing. My go to is 7000ft for how I hunt here in Montana. Going to start a new thread to figure this out. I hope to start this build after this season.
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So rather than 18” 6.5 PRC and TBAC 5 I should go 16.5” and TBAC 7.
@Formidilosus what's your experience been with the Hyperion K and would you consider it hearing safe for field work (not range work)?
Fantastic! Mine got out of jail a few weeks back and I've enjoyed it, but wasn't sure if the nomad ti would have been better or not...I have used Hyperion K’s extensively. They are excellent suppressors, and yes hearing safe in the range. For me it’s the best field can made so far.