Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

Did you use a go gauge/no go gauge afterwards? I've experienced rifles which had a minimum chamber and then ammo that was on the maximum range which caused some brands or variations of ammunition to stick in the lands and pull the bullets. I would try another factory load or have an actual gunsmith take a look at it.

Jay
It’s my first tikka so I know the bolt slightly pulls forward when rotated but I could ever so slightly “feel” the go gauge but it chambered. I plan on letting a gunsmith look at it but I’m out of town for work most of the year so gotta attempt to find one in this area.
 
I’d like to hop in line next for the tools, assuming they’re still in rotation.
 
At least I know that I got the vice tightened down enough. In case anyone worries, this is mine.
 

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I've only pulled one so far, using the PMA vise not the viper, but they're fairly similar. I used a piece of toilet paper tube and hit it with the impact to tighten. Hit it a second time when it slipped just a bit but after that it popped off fairly easy.

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Pulled my first two Tikka barrels today. One was a barrel that had been removed before so I started with that one to get the setup right, knowing it wouldn’t likely be as tight as the factory barrel I’d attempt after. I used a Viper vise, cut in half (I purposefully cut it so one side was narrower than the other. Mounted the vise on a sturdy bench, used a toilet paper roll cut in half to wrap the barrel, then evenly tightened the vise with the narrow section on the taper and the wider section on the shank about as tight as I could physically get it with a a box end wrench. Wheeler #1 flipped over on the action with pieces of TP tube between action and wrench. Got the wrench tight, but not nearly as tight as the Viper bolts. Oriented the wrench so it was slightly facing downward. One good whack with a 4lb deadblow and it broke free.

I put some Kroil on that one right before I did it but it did not have time to penetrate much at all. Probably 20 minutes max.

The other was a brand new factory barrel. I added a few drops of Kroil daily for about a week with it hanging muzzle down before I tackled it. While I was working on the first one, I put it in the chest freezer. Once I mounted it in the vise, again with a TP tube, I heated the action over the threads with a heat gun. It was warm, but not glowing or anything like that. Got the Wheeler #1 snugged up and gave it a good whack. This one took 2 or 3 before it popped loose.

Overall, the advice here allowed me a drama free, non-marring experience. Thought I’d share for others who were considering doing this for the first time.
 
letting kroil soak in the receiver (game changer). I used a reed wrench on the outside of the receiver on the flats, little heat on the barrel close to the shank and it popped right off with some pressure. Scary on the first one, but have a few under my belt now.
 
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