Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

diverc18 said:
Finally got it. Took a 4 foot breaker bar to tighten down the vise evenly. The barrel still spun. It was wrapped with brown sugar and a toilet paper roll. So I busted out a 36 inch pipe wrench and had my buddy @Bc45 pull the pipe wrench while I had the wheeler number 1 with a 4 foot breaker bar and it finally broke loose. Threads were full of the penetrating oil as well.
Click to expand...
Was this a Howa or something?
 
diverc18 said:
Finally got it. Took a 4 foot breaker bar to tighten down the vise evenly. The barrel still spun. It was wrapped with brown sugar and a toilet paper roll. So I busted out a 36 inch pipe wrench and had my buddy @Bc45 pull the pipe wrench while I had the wheeler number 1 with a 4 foot breaker bar and it finally broke loose. Threads were full of the penetrating oil as well.
Click to expand...
They are difficult until suddenly it’s easy and it spins off.
 
3b543532ff332308fa264b59239a9240.jpg

This was an older T3 and they’re supposed to be harder so I’ll post up my process! The whole thing start to finish took 16 minutes according to my photo timestamps!
1. I used some penetrant from Menards in my action like this for about 3-4 days.
2. I then put the barreled action in the freezer for ~48 hours.
3. Got the barrel clamped into the barrel vise and tightened into my bench vise. I used toilet paper tubes.
9ba1d0ff108dc5b79d6cae959190fe00.jpg

4. I put the outside action wrench on the action.
5. Hit the action with a little heat from a small propane torch that I used to put inserts in my arrows.
6. Hit the action wrench handle one time with a 4lb dead blow hammer and decided to take some tools off my bench
7. Gave it one more whack and the handle spun 100° and smacked my bench. Removed the action wrench and spun the action off with my hands.
8. New barrel in the vise and torqued the action on to a little over 110 ft lbs and checked headspace with a go/no go gauge. Now I just need to order a rokstock/wallow out this barrel channel!

THANK YOU to everyone who helped make this possible by lending tools and knowledge. This is an amazing community.

ecaea01ac684520b217f7c95cfcd0add.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
silasbowhunter said:
3b543532ff332308fa264b59239a9240.jpg

This was an older T3 and they’re supposed to be harder so I’ll post up my process! The whole thing start to finish took 16 minutes according to my photo timestamps!
1. I used some penetrant from Menards in my action like this for about 3-4 days.
2. I then put the barreled action in the freezer for ~48 hours.
3. Got the barrel clamped into the barrel vise and tightened into my bench vise. I used toilet paper tubes.
9ba1d0ff108dc5b79d6cae959190fe00.jpg

4. I put the outside action wrench on the action.
5. Hit the action with a little heat from a small propane torch that I used to put inserts in my arrows.
6. Hit the action wrench handle one time with a 4lb dead blow hammer and decided to take some tools off my bench
7. Gave it one more whack and the handle spun 100° and smacked my bench. Removed the action wrench and spun the action off with my hands.
8. New barrel in the vise and torqued the action on to a little over 110 ft lbs and checked headspace with a go/no go gauge. Now I just need to order a rokstock/wallow out this barrel channel!

THANK YOU to everyone who helped make this possible by lending tools and knowledge. This is an amazing community.

ecaea01ac684520b217f7c95cfcd0add.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Lucky man. I wish mine took 16 mins
 
Just finished mine and it was tough to break the factory barrel loose.

Older T3 blued barrel, blued action purchased in around 2010 or so.

I knew the tools were on the way so started dripping Kroil from the action end standing upright with a bag around the muzzle a few days prior to starting this project.

When the tools got here I figured everything out pretty quickly and I inverted the free section of the action vice so the top half had the flat against the top flat of the actionand the radius was underneath along the recoil lug recess (the top half radius was away from the action). I left some room to hit the threaded portion with some heat and used card stock to protect all surfaces.

Error on the side of over tightening the barrel vice. Took me several tries to get that tight enough with it not to spin. Tighten as you would scope rings in an X pattern.

I had no luck with the ol rubber mallet wacking so a quick call to my dad for advice had me on the way to Lowe’s to get a 1 inch inner diameter, 4’ steel pipe. If you’re wanting to knock this out quick I would get the pipe and start there. I mean, you can always return it when you’re done…

This eventually broke it free with way more force than I anticipated. I walked away from it twice giving up, thinking I would never get it free. I hit it with a propane torch and that didn’t seem to help. Brute force and getting the leverage right eventually got it.

One thing I found was the oil did totally penetrate the threads as they were all wet.

I’ve seen on this thread that some broke free really easy and maybe there’s something to be said for freezing it then some heat but I didn’t have the ability to do that so I only used heat. By the time it broke the action had cooled and I never changed the color of the blued action so maybe more heat was needed.

I’d have the four foot bar on hand if I did this again. Just hold on to your receipt…

Thank you so much for the use of the tools. It’s one of the most generous things I’ve seen on here.
 
gtriple said:
Based on the discussion from the Semi-Custom Tikka thread, I want to offer up my tools that I'm no longer using to others to remove their factory barrels and install new ones.

Here's what I've got and the cost to replace:
Wheeler Action Wrench #1 - $80
PMA Gen II Barrel Vise - $87
Bugholes Tikka Internal Action Wrench - $97
Torque Wrench (up to 80 ft-lb) w/ bit - $50
Some leather from Hobby Lobby

Full cost to replace = $314

I think some others might be willing to include go/no-go gauges if needed. If there's other items that are needed, feel free to post below and we can include them all together.

All of the above tools fit into a medium flat rate USPS box and cost about $15 each way to ship to the lower 48. So about $30 roundtrip.

The deal will be that the "buyer" pays shipping from and back to me plus makes a $5 donation to Rokslide to keep the Classifieds free.

If you have good feedback here, I won't charge anything up-front. If you are newer, then you'll need to pay me the full cost to replace prior to shipping then I will refund you once I get the items back.

I'm local to Charlotte, NC and can loan them out locally too.

Added the below queue so I can keep things in order. I'll give people 3 days to follow through and then move onto the next person.

Current Queue of Renters (in order of posting here or pm'ing me):
@chukwithak
@bharv2221
@Big_Sky_Guy
@nrh6.7
@qotsa23


IF YOU BREAK IT, YOU REPLACE IT.

Tools you need for barrel install:
  • A sturdy workbench
  • A pair of vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
Tools you need for barrel removal:
  • A very sturdy workbench
  • A pair of metal or heavy-duty vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
  • A rubber mallet
  • You may need some Kroil or other penetrant
Instructions (for both):
  1. Fasten the bottom of the vice to your bench and orient the top plate based on the profile of your barrel.
  2. Insert your barrel into the vice as far as possible. It works best not on a tapered section.
    • It is up to you if you want to use the leather or other tape around the barrel. PMA states on their site that the vice won't mar your barrel, but that is up to you.
  3. Tighten the vice bolts down to a maximum of 40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) per PMA.
For barrel removal:
  1. (Optional if removing factory barrel) - spray and soak the barrel threads with Kroil or another penetrant.
  2. Slide the black, external Wheeler wrench (with the flat parts on the inside) around the action to one of the two flat spots on the bottom of the action. I prefer the one closer to the barrel.
  3. Snug the wrench bolts up. They do not have to be torqued down hard. Just enough to keep it from rotating.
  4. Use a rubbermallet and whack the crap out of the wrench handle. I was shocked at how hard I had to hit the mallet to take the factory barrels off. Some are easier than others though.
    • If you are removing a non-factory barrel, you can probably just twist it off as long as it isn't Loctited on.
    • If you are having difficulty getting the factory barrel off, you can try using a breaker bar on the wrench handle.
For barrel install:
  1. (Optional) - apply an anti-seize to the threads on the barrel.
  2. Thread the action onto the barrel by hand.
  3. Insert the internal action wrench all the way into the action.
  4. Use the torque wrench to torque the barrel to your manufacturer's recommendation. 80ft-lbs (960in-lbs) is what my Proof recommended but check with your barrel manufacturer.
That's pretty much it. If you have any questions, let me know.

Disclaimer: You use these tools at your own risk. Any damage to your action, barrel, the tools, or any other components are not my liability. I am also not liable for any injuries or damages due to the use of these tools.
Click to expand...
I realize this is a year old, but are you still offering this?
gtriple said:
Based on the discussion from the Semi-Custom Tikka thread, I want to offer up my tools that I'm no longer using to others to remove their factory barrels and install new ones.

Here's what I've got and the cost to replace:
Wheeler Action Wrench #1 - $80
PMA Gen II Barrel Vise - $87
Bugholes Tikka Internal Action Wrench - $97
Torque Wrench (up to 80 ft-lb) w/ bit - $50
Some leather from Hobby Lobby

Full cost to replace = $314

I think some others might be willing to include go/no-go gauges if needed. If there's other items that are needed, feel free to post below and we can include them all together.

All of the above tools fit into a medium flat rate USPS box and cost about $15 each way to ship to the lower 48. So about $30 roundtrip.

The deal will be that the "buyer" pays shipping from and back to me plus makes a $5 donation to Rokslide to keep the Classifieds free.

If you have good feedback here, I won't charge anything up-front. If you are newer, then you'll need to pay me the full cost to replace prior to shipping then I will refund you once I get the items back.

I'm local to Charlotte, NC and can loan them out locally too.

Added the below queue so I can keep things in order. I'll give people 3 days to follow through and then move onto the next person.

Current Queue of Renters (in order of posting here or pm'ing me):
@chukwithak
@bharv2221
@Big_Sky_Guy
@nrh6.7
@qotsa23


IF YOU BREAK IT, YOU REPLACE IT.

Tools you need for barrel install:
  • A sturdy workbench
  • A pair of vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
Tools you need for barrel removal:
  • A very sturdy workbench
  • A pair of metal or heavy-duty vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
  • A rubber mallet
  • You may need some Kroil or other penetrant
Instructions (for both):
  1. Fasten the bottom of the vice to your bench and orient the top plate based on the profile of your barrel.
  2. Insert your barrel into the vice as far as possible. It works best not on a tapered section.
    • It is up to you if you want to use the leather or other tape around the barrel. PMA states on their site that the vice won't mar your barrel, but that is up to you.
  3. Tighten the vice bolts down to a maximum of 40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) per PMA.
For barrel removal:
  1. (Optional if removing factory barrel) - spray and soak the barrel threads with Kroil or another penetrant.
  2. Slide the black, external Wheeler wrench (with the flat parts on the inside) around the action to one of the two flat spots on the bottom of the action. I prefer the one closer to the barrel.
  3. Snug the wrench bolts up. They do not have to be torqued down hard. Just enough to keep it from rotating.
  4. Use a rubbermallet and whack the crap out of the wrench handle. I was shocked at how hard I had to hit the mallet to take the factory barrels off. Some are easier than others though.
    • If you are removing a non-factory barrel, you can probably just twist it off as long as it isn't Loctited on.
    • If you are having difficulty getting the factory barrel off, you can try using a breaker bar on the wrench handle.
For barrel install:
  1. (Optional) - apply an anti-seize to the threads on the barrel.
  2. Thread the action onto the barrel by hand.
  3. Insert the internal action wrench all the way into the action.
  4. Use the torque wrench to torque the barrel to your manufacturer's recommendation. 80ft-lbs (960in-lbs) is what my Proof recommended but check with your barrel manufacturer.
That's pretty much it. If you have any questions, let me know.

Disclaimer: You use these tools at your own risk. Any damage to your action, barrel, the tools, or any other components are not my liability. I am also not liable for any injuries or damages due to the use of these tools.
Click to expand...
I realize this thread is a year old, but i was wondering if this is something you would still be willing to do?
 
Msrtrblstr39 said:
I realize this is a year old, but are you still offering this?

I realize this thread is a year old, but i was wondering if this is something you would still be willing to do?
Click to expand...
Yes, I'll be shipping out the tools again in a couple of weeks once I return from out of town.
 
wyogoat said:
Just finished mine and it was tough to break the factory barrel loose.

Older T3 blued barrel, blued action purchased in around 2010 or so.

I knew the tools were on the way so started dripping Kroil from the action end standing upright with a bag around the muzzle a few days prior to starting this project.

When the tools got here I figured everything out pretty quickly and I inverted the free section of the action vice so the top half had the flat against the top flat of the actionand the radius was underneath along the recoil lug recess (the top half radius was away from the action). I left some room to hit the threaded portion with some heat and used card stock to protect all surfaces.

Error on the side of over tightening the barrel vice. Took me several tries to get that tight enough with it not to spin. Tighten as you would scope rings in an X pattern.

I had no luck with the ol rubber mallet wacking so a quick call to my dad for advice had me on the way to Lowe’s to get a 1 inch inner diameter, 4’ steel pipe. If you’re wanting to knock this out quick I would get the pipe and start there. I mean, you can always return it when you’re done…

This eventually broke it free with way more force than I anticipated. I walked away from it twice giving up, thinking I would never get it free. I hit it with a propane torch and that didn’t seem to help. Brute force and getting the leverage right eventually got it.

One thing I found was the oil did totally penetrate the threads as they were all wet.

I’ve seen on this thread that some broke free really easy and maybe there’s something to be said for freezing it then some heat but I didn’t have the ability to do that so I only used heat. By the time it broke the action had cooled and I never changed the color of the blued action so maybe more heat was needed.

I’d have the four foot bar on hand if I did this again. Just hold on to your receipt…

Thank you so much for the use of the tools. It’s one of the most generous things I’ve seen on here.
Click to expand...
I also quit twice the first time I removed one. I thought for sure I was going to break something before I got the barrel off.
 
I’d like to take advantage of this if someone is still willing to loan out. Have a brand new .243 trying to put on a factory 7-08 barrel. Tough life for us lefties 😂
 
RedRidge said:
I’d like to take advantage of this if someone is still willing to loan out. Have a brand new .243 trying to put on a factory 7-08 barrel. Tough life for us lefties 😂
Click to expand...
That's exactly how I ended up with my 260 Rem, lefty 243 and had the factory 260 barrel put on. With our 3 Tikkas we have in the house I need to get the vise and wrench to do barrel swapping.
 
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