Stuck CB in suppressor and unscrewed my whole barrel. I didn’t know I was so strong

  • Redloctite it on. Let cure 24 hours
  • Freezer until its cold
  • Heat gun/blowtorch on the SUPPRESSOR ONLY. Apply heat in front of the brake area. Dont heat it so much that you heat the brake and melt the red loctite (250°F)
Itll come off
 
This is one of the reasons I went to DT suppressors. My Specwar got stuck on my 300BO AR after a range session about 10 years ago. Went through way too much crap to get it separated from the mount.
Over the years, I have saved money by not having to buy muzzle devices and I have never had a problem with POI change, loose suppressors, or any other of the myriad of things stated for using QD over DT.
 
I use red loctite with my CB mounts. Never have had an issue. Knock in wood. Never had a can get stuck. If I need to remove the cb mount I heat it with a torch and remove it.
 
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This is one of the reasons I went to DT suppressors. My Specwar got stuck on my 300BO AR after a range session about 10 years ago. Went through way too much crap to get it separated from the mount.
Over the years, I have saved money by not having to buy muzzle devices and I have never had a problem with POI change, loose suppressors, or any other of the myriad of things stated for using QD over DT.
I can't comment directly on other brand's QD/brake mounts. But I would expect them all too have this issue if you don't mount the brake with rockset/red loctite

When it comes to TBAC cans there's no saving money getting the DT, they come with a brake no matter what.
DT version is just a rocksetted brake inside
 
I must be the odd man out but I am not a fan of the area 419 adapters. Having opposing thread patterns seems to result in me loosening up one thing when im trying to tighten something else.. I’ve got like 6 of the adapters so im invested enough that im not changing yet but if I were doing it over I’d do direct thread 1st and just use hansohn or cb adapters 2nd before the 419 setup.
 
So my concern with red loctite or rockseting any CB back onto this particular rifle again is, I’m likely to run into some type of carbon weld again and I don’t want to spin the barrel off by hand. So for that very reason, I think I’m just going to move to the direct thread direction. I was doing that with my banish 30 before without issues.

It seems like there’s a good amount of people that don’t care for DT cans, is there a reason for that?

Also, with the CB break deal, what is the purpose of screwing the CB so that the flat portion is level on top of the barrel? Is that a repeatability thing?
 
So my concern with red loctite or rockseting any CB back onto this particular rifle again is, I’m likely to run into some type of carbon weld again and I don’t want to spin the barrel off by hand. So for that very reason, I think I’m just going to move to the direct thread direction. I was doing that with my banish 30 before without issues.

It seems like there’s a good amount of people that don’t care for DT cans, is there a reason for that?

Also, with the CB break deal, what is the purpose of screwing the CB so that the flat portion is level on top of the barrel? Is that a repeatability thing?
I think a DT could just carbon weld onto a barrel too. The CB mount allows me to have cb mounts on different guns and move the can around to them. If it’s direct thread I can only thread onto a certain threaded rifle.

Are you talking the timed CB mount flat portion? Thats for if you ever shot without the can. The gas would go to the sides and not into the dirt.
 
I vote to leave it locked up and use as a DT can. My CB mount comes loose constantly and drives me nuts.
 
I think a DT could just carbon weld onto a barrel too. The CB mount allows me to have cb mounts on different guns and move the can around to them. If it’s direct thread I can only thread onto a certain threaded rifle.

Are you talking the timed CB mount flat portion? Thats for if you ever shot without the can. The gas would go to the sides and not into the dirt.
Yeah I’m going to make it a point to take my can off of the gun after shooting from now on. All of my guns are the same muzzle thread size so not a big deal but I can see the appeal if guys have different sizes.

Yeah that’s exactly what I was talking about. I completely understand the gas exit part. For some reason I always thought it had some effect on the cans performance or repeatability. I feel a little dumber now for thinking it mattered haha.
 
Yeah I’m going to make it a point to take my can off of the gun after shooting from now on. All of my guns are the same muzzle thread size so not a big deal but I can see the appeal if guys have different sizes.

Yeah that’s exactly what I was talking about. I completely understand the gas exit part. For some reason I always thought it had some effect on the cans performance or repeatability. I feel a little dumber now for thinking it mattered haha.
Yea that make sense. I’m using it on different guns that are threaded different.

Yea no worries. They make a non timed brake too. But don’t think the orientation has anything to do with performance
 
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So my concern with red loctite or rockseting any CB back onto this particular rifle again is, I’m likely to run into some type of carbon weld again and I don’t want to spin the barrel off by hand.
Basic care of a suppressor avoids all of your problems.
But, hey. If it's easier and simpler for you to do DT, then do it. DT walks off easier than CB brakes, so I have no interest. Loctiting a brake is a much easier solution for me.

It seems like there’s a good amount of people that don’t care for DT cans, is there a reason for that?
DT cans walk off easier/more often than their CB brake-mounted counterparts

Also, with the CB break deal, what is the purpose of screwing the CB so that the flat portion is level on top of the barrel? Is that a repeatability thing
No. That's to make the brake function optimally as a brake. As a suppressor mount, it makes no difference
 
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Try spraying this in the can after each range session. Soaking it and dropping it in a sonic bath should prevent this.
 

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Basic care of a suppressor avoids all of your problems.
While I am a dirty dog that doesn’t clean much and that’s sound advice, I forgot to mention that this was a brand new CB mount and the first time I had ever shot it on the gun. Prior to that, I had shot the can on a 22-250 with an entirely different CB mount. Never had a problem with that one and put just under 80 ish rounds thru it total, so the cans not filthy.

I also only shot the Seekins a total of 12 times with that brand new CB mount. I’m surprised it welded together so quick. I’m still suprised the barrel came loose so easy as well haha.
 
One thing I haven’t seen anyone else do and it’s too late for your situation unless you get it broken free is to coat the threads of the brake with anti seize before using the can. Plenty of hi temp anti seize compounds that will withstand 2,000-2,500 degrees. I’ve always done this primarily due to the titanium’s tendency to gall but also have not suffered a stuck can with any of my TBAC’s to date.
 
I heard of another early run seekins havak 300 wm barrel being completely loose from the factory. Not sure when you bought yours but that might have been a problem at some point.
 
I heard of another early run seekins havak 300 wm barrel being completely loose from the factory. Not sure when you bought yours but that might have been a problem at some point.
Yep this is an easy run Seekins. Honestly glad I found out like this. Checking to see if my barrels tight isn’t something I’ve really thought about.
 
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