Should I have my barrel shortened for suppressor?

Chris_in_Idaho

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I wouldn’t waste money having the barrel cut. Stick the suppressor on and have fun.
How's OP going to do that without threads? He's got to pay for machining either way out at the current muzzle or at whatever length he chooses. So "don't waste money" doesn't really apply.

Do you mean you'd still prefer to leave it long?
 

Seeknelk

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Yes. Cut it short. Decide what range you wish to be able hunt to. Do some mathing to determine if your bullet will still arrive at that distance to upset properly.
Ex. Tikka 6.5cm, shoots 140 eldm handloads, fast enough to work from 700 yards and in cut down to 16.5 " it serves my purpose so why would I want it longer is my thinking and the 700 yard shots are an almost never situation for this set up.
 
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How's OP going to do that without threads? He's got to pay for machining either way out at the current muzzle or at whatever length he chooses. So "don't waste money" doesn't really apply.

Do you mean you'd still prefer to leave it long?
I’m not sure if you’re asking a legitimate question or what here but I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt. Most smiths charge different rates for a barrel thread vs a cut/recrown/and thread in my experience, i.e. cut,crown,thread - 175$ vs threading - 75$. Given that information and my original post, one can infer that yes I mean just thread it and go shoot.

The OP needs to decide for himself what fits his purpose and hopefully he knows that posting to an internet forum will result in a wide array of opinions. Some he will like, some he won’t but he will still be the one making the decision not a bunch of strangers on the internet.
 
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Anything over .625” could be threaded 5/8”-24, but the standard recommendation is that you want a .050” shoulder left after threading, which would require at least .725” muzzle diameter. This minimum shoulder is the advice given by many rifle smiths, and Thunderbeast arms.


While 0.050" shoulder is the standard recommendation, I have a couple barrels that are in the .680-.690" range and they do just fine with direct thread cans (Dead Air Sandman Ti and Dead Air Nomad 30). One is a .260 Rem and the other is a 7TCU. Also had a 6.5-06 that has since moved on that was 0.685" at the muzzle and it did fine as well.
 

Chris_in_Idaho

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I’m not sure if you’re asking a legitimate question or what here but I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt. Most smiths charge different rates for a barrel thread vs a cut/recrown/and thread in my experience, i.e. cut,crown,thread - 175$ vs threading - 75$. Given that information and my original post, one can infer that yes I mean just thread it and go shoot.

The OP needs to decide for himself what fits his purpose and hopefully he knows that posting to an internet forum will result in a wide array of opinions. Some he will like, some he won’t but he will still be the one making the decision not a bunch of strangers on the internet.
Fair enough. I've been looking at LRI who combines muzzle threading and re-crowning as one service. So if your local gunsmith charges less for threading without cutting & crowning then you could save money by keeping the original barrel length.

Personally, if the gun already has to go to a gunsmith and sit waiting for their convenience, and you're already going to pay for the threading, trying to save the extra fee for cutting & crowning wouldn't be worth being stuck with a barrel that you'll always wish was shorter. But that's just, like, my opinion man.

While 0.050" shoulder is the standard recommendation, I have a couple barrels that are in the .680-.690" range and they do just fine with direct thread cans (Dead Air Sandman Ti and Dead Air Nomad 30). One is a .260 Rem and the other is a 7TCU. Also had a 6.5-06 that has since moved on that was 0.685" at the muzzle and it did fine as well.
If your can has the standard 1.375" threads at the rear so you can swap adapters, then a good option might be this titanium direct thread adapter that fits 5/8 with the 25° Sig taper. The Sig taper only requires a barrel diameter of .050" over the major thread diameter instead of .100" like a square shoulder. So instead of needing .725" you can get away with .675" and still have the better thickness between the bore diameter and threads (5/8 vs 1/2 or 9/16) and you also gain all of the benefits of a taper mount (more consistent alignment and less tendency to loosen up) without having to add muzzle devices and mount systems.
 

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TheCougar

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+1 on the shoulder warning. Even if you can get the right thread pitch, without a proper shoulder you could encounter a problem. Like a baffle strike - which I learned the hard way (thanks to Cooper).
How does the lack of a shoulder lead to baffle strike? Second question - does the minimum recommended shoulder (seems to be .050”) change at all over different barrels or cans?

Have you ever seen a change in accuracy from chopping a barrel?
 
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pirogue

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Some folks may shorten barrels for a reason I saw the other day. Was out predator hunting the other day, and a truck comes down the road with a couple guys in it, and pulls over to chat with me. The passenger is holding a rifle, with a suppressor, standing upright between his legs. Obviously, a bolt action rifle, original barrel fitted with a can, doesn’t stand up in the cab. So, there you go, unethical, illegal road hunters can have it handy.
 

fwafwow

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How does the lack of a shoulder lead to baffle strike? Second question - does the minimum recommended shoulder (seems to be .050”) change at all over different barrels or cans?

Have you ever seen a change in accuracy from chopping a barrel?
I'm only aware because it happened to me - so I'm not an expert. From memory only (!), the lack of a shoulder may not allow the can to get a seated fit against the barrel, which in some cases (including mine) can lead to a misalignment and a baffle strike. If you want more info, I can dig through the emails among Cooper, TBAC and me.

EDIT - sorry, I didn't answer your question. I'm not the right person to ask about a change in accuracy from cutting a barrel. I've only cut one barrel and that was before having shot it, so I can't compare before and after.
 
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TheCougar

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I'm only aware because it happened to me - so I'm not an expert. From memory only (!), the lack of a shoulder may not allow the can to get a seated fit against the barrel, which in some cases (including mine) can lead to a misalignment and a baffle strike. If you want more info, I can dig through the emails among Cooper, TBAC and me.
I just had my two new Tikkas delivered to a local gunsmith that came recommended. I’ll check with him and see how knowledgeable he is. Otherwise it’s getting sent west for the work. I’m new to the suppressor world.
 

fwafwow

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I just had my two new Tikkas delivered to a local gunsmith that came recommended. I’ll check with him and see how knowledgeable he is. Otherwise it’s getting sent west for the work. I’m new to the suppressor world.
I can't speak for all can makers, but mine gave me dimensions and a diagram that I would think are easy (for a competent gunsmith) to follow. I expect others provide the same information, at least upon request. The gunsmith (at the company that made the rifle) just chose not to follow the dimensions - without telling me that decision had been made.
 

Bighorns247

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I started out with a 25" barrel and 5" can. 30" overall length was too long for my liking so I went down to a 22" barrel.
 
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