Should I have my barrel shortened for suppressor?

[sierracharlie338]

I wouldn’t waste money having the barrel cut. Stick the suppressor on and have fun.

 

[Andouille]

I wouldn’t waste money having the barrel cut. Stick the suppressor on and have fun.

That's your subjective value and perhaps a ~28" long barrel/suppressor is fine in the open TX plains. If cutting a barrel is a waste of money, then buying a suppressor is an even more frivolous waste of money because guns have worked fine for 100's of years without them.
Note that he provided some useful context about his hunting scenario:
I use it as my main hunting rifle and tend to carry on my pack sling, especially when hiking in. I was wondering if this would cause problems hunting with it getting stuck on branches and brush when hiking up the mountains.
I'm in a similar situation with a Banish Backcountry suppressor sitting on my shelf and I plan to have my 30-06 barrel cut down from 22" to 18.5", which I figure will make for a 24" long gun that I can still carry through brush and up mountains in Alaska. For me, 18.5" length is an acceptable compromise between velocity reduction and packability of the rifle.

 

[Andouille]

I bet both of those barrels aren't thick enough to get a 5/8" thread on with enough left over for a decent shoulder. Likely you will have to thread them in 1/2"x28 and get an adapter that gets you up to 5/8"x24.

My browning x-bolt has a similarly thin barrel, and I will have it threaded 9/16-24 to match the thread of the end piece that came with my suppressor. No need for an adapter which simplifies the setup. Many cans have interchangeable end pieces, with various threads available from the manufacturer.

 

[sierracharlie338]

That's your subjective value and perhaps a ~28" long barrel/suppressor is fine in the open TX plains. If cutting a barrel is a waste of money, then buying a suppressor is an even more frivolous waste of money because guns have worked fine for 100's of years without them.
Note that he provided some useful context about his hunting scenario:
I use it as my main hunting rifle and tend to carry on my pack sling, especially when hiking in. I was wondering if this would cause problems hunting with it getting stuck on branches and brush when hiking up the mountains.
I'm in a similar situation with a Banish Backcountry suppressor sitting on my shelf and I plan to have my 30-06 barrel cut down from 22" to 18.5", which I figure will make for a 24" long gun that I can still carry through brush and up mountains in Alaska. For me, 18.5" length is an acceptable compromise between velocity reduction and packability of the rifle.

Hi. Welcome to the internet where it’s full of people’s opinions. Not sure why you felt the need to quote my comment but it’s MY OPINION which is what the op asked for by his post. I like that you assumed that I think suppressors are frivolous expenditures. Clearly my comment struck a nerve but it wasn’t directed at you so maybe next time provide YOUR OPINION and move on instead of what you have done here.

 

[fwafwow]

My browning x-bolt has a similarly thin barrel, and I will have it threaded 9/16-24 to match the thread of the end piece that came with my suppressor. No need for an adapter which simplifies the setup. Many cans have interchangeable end pieces, with various threads available from the manufacturer.

+1 on the shoulder warning. Even if you can get the right thread pitch, without a proper shoulder you could encounter a problem. Like a baffle strike - which I learned the hard way (thanks to Cooper).

 

[Andouille]

Hi. Welcome to the internet where it’s full of people’s opinions.

Indeed, we can at least agree on that point. You are free to post your opinions regardless of whether they are relevant or helpful to the OP's context.

 

[sierracharlie338]

Indeed, we can at least agree on that point. You are free to post your opinions regardless of whether they are relevant or helpful to the OP's context.

Lol if I were to say you’re right would your underwear become un-bunched?

 

[SloppyJ]

My browning x-bolt has a similarly thin barrel, and I will have it threaded 9/16-24 to match the thread of the end piece that came with my suppressor. No need for an adapter which simplifies the setup. Many cans have interchangeable end pieces, with various threads available from the manufacturer.

Shoulder area could be a concern and the fact is that 99% of all suppressors are 1/2" or 5/8". I hate swapping out end caps on a suppressor just to run on one gun or another.

 

[Tobe_B]

I have a 22” barrel and a 9.25” suppressor on my 6.5PRC. I bought a kifaru gun bearer to hang on my pack so my rifle rides lower. It’s not a perfect solution, but I’ve been carrying it all fall and really like it. I have not had issues with the barrel hanging brush or being in the way at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ElPollo]

Shoulder area could be a concern and the fact is that 99% of all suppressors are 1/2" or 5/8". I hate swapping out end caps on a suppressor just to run on one gun or another.

Shoulder area is not the issue some companies would suggest. There are plenty of people who are running 1/2x28 threads on 30 cal magnums with light sporter barrels with no problems. Adapters are also not an issue to be concerned about. My can is 5/8x24 and all but one of my rifles are 1/2x28. The only issue I have is that my AB Raptor requires that I use adapters made by them to clear the inside of the reflex mount on the can.

 

[KHNC]

You should lose more velocity on your 300wm. The problem you're going to have is that I bet both of those barrels aren't thick enough to get a 5/8" thread on with enough left over for a decent shoulder. Likely you will have to thread them in 1/2"x28 and get an adapter that gets you up to 5/8"x24. It's not ideal but plenty of people run them. I run one on my Model 70 30-06. I don't want to rebarrel it because the bluing on the supergrades is really nice and I won't be able to match it.

Research shortening the barrel on both of those calibers. Run the numbers through a ballistic calculator to see what you're really dealing with. Only after that can you figure out how much you're willing to give up.

The 22.5" barrel with a 6" suppressor won't be THAT bad but you'll know it's there. I have a 7" suppressor on a 22" 280ai and it sticks out there a ways. 22" is about the longest I want to go personally for hunting like I do.

I did have to get mine threaded for 1/2x28 to have shoulder as mentioned. Not a big deal in the least as i already had multiple adaptors to change from my AR's to my 300WSM. I have used my Omega 30 on my .17 up to 300WSM with zero issues.

 

[SloppyJ]

Shoulder area is not the issue some companies would suggest. There are plenty of people who are running 1/2x28 threads on 30 cal magnums with light sporter barrels with no problems. Adapters are also not an issue to be concerned about. My can is 5/8x24 and all but one of my rifles are 1/2x28. The only issue I have is that my AB Raptor requires that I use adapters made by them to clear the inside of the reflex mount on the can.

My point was that I'd rather have a more universal thread pitch and greater shoulder area with the 1/2" thread as compared to the 9/16. Given the choice, I'd rather have a true 5/8 thread and not have to use the adapter but we can't get that lucky with all factory barrels. I just got the AB adapter in the mail and installed it on my Model 70 last night actually for the same reason. Checked with an alignment rod and good to go.

Wish I could say that about the adapter that the shop who threaded my barrel provided. I'm so glad I checked the alignment or I would have been sending that can back not too long after I got it.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Hell, i had my barrel on my 7-08 cut from 22" to 16" , along with an XLR chassis and SilencerCo Omega 30. That damn thing is accurate as fk!! Dime stacker at 100. I dont remember it ever shooting as good as it does now. It is a Rem 700 action and barrel. 20 years old too.

What load are you running and what was the loss in velocity in your case going to 16"? I'm going to chop a 7-08 soon and was considering 18" but info for decision making.

 

[ElPollo]

My point was that I'd rather have a more universal thread pitch and greater shoulder area with the 1/2" thread as compared to the 9/16. Given the choice, I'd rather have a true 5/8 thread and not have to use the adapter but we can't get that lucky with all factory barrels. I just got the AB adapter in the mail and installed it on my Model 70 last night actually for the same reason. Checked with an alignment rod and good to go.

Wish I could say that about the adapter that the shop who threaded my barrel provided. I'm so glad I checked the alignment or I would have been sending that can back not too long after I got it.

Agree on the more common threads. Sorry that I misunderstood your intent. 1/2x28 will work fine. But I also have a tikka that is 9/16x24 that I run my 5/8 can on with an adapter. I just hear so many people saying you have to have a barrel that is X diameter, with Y shoulder, and Z thickness under the threads. As far as I’m concerned, if the machinist is comfortable with the Z number, I’ll throw an adapter on it and my can and shoot the shit out of it.

 

[rcook10]

I have never regretted cutting a barrel down on a rifle and am actively having more chopped. There is plenty if data showing excellent terminal performance with many calibers and bullets. You can look at my post history to see pre and post velocity data from my 308. Working on the 223 now too.

 

[SloppyJ]

I have never regretted cutting a barrel down on a rifle and am actively having more chopped. There is plenty if data showing excellent terminal performance with many calibers and bullets. You can look at my post history to see pre and post velocity data from my 308. Working on the 223 now too.

The only thing I've regretted is not going shorter!

 

[KHNC]

What load are you running and what was the loss in velocity in your case going to 16"? I'm going to chop a 7-08 soon and was considering 18" but info for decision making.

I dont have a graph to check velocity. I just assumed 25fps per inch and went with those calculations. I assume 2870 fps with 120gr barnes tsx factory loads. Dope has been spot on to 400. Cant shoot for practice any farther, but dialing for 500 has the appropriate height on my target as well. I wont be shooting past 500.

 

[bonepoint]

When cutting down a barrel, what is the minimum diameter required to be able to thread for the standard 5/8-24?

 

[TexLuke]

When cutting down a barrel, what is the minimum diameter required to be able to thread for the standard 5/8-24?

Anything over .625” could be threaded 5/8”-24, but the standard recommendation is that you want a .050” shoulder left after threading, which would require at least .725” muzzle diameter. This minimum shoulder is the advice given by many rifle smiths, and Thunderbeast arms.

Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS

 

[CentennialState]

FWIW, I lugged around a 26” 300WM Weatherby during mule deer season this year, with a Raptor 8 on the end of it. Some open country, some trees. Even with a gun bearer riding low, that whole setup would hit branches and carrying by hand was not enjoyable either. As far as shooting, if you’re supported it wasn’t a problem, but my $.02 is to cut your barrel as much as you can