"Street Legal" dirt bike for Novice

[Jesse Jaymes]

Wrench- Spent a solid hour at the WA DMV last night. What a goat rope. Not the lady's issue really. I am stuck between states. Sold my Nidaho place. Still ID resident. Mailing address back in WA. Title and bike are Idaho on the KTM. Bike listed as plate-able on the title. I no longer have physical address in ID- can't get a plate for it in ID any longer.

All I wanted was the F'ing ORV sticker to ride the parks. $14 She was on the phone with Olympia for 20 minutes. Had my Idaho ORV sticker. Had my Out of State ORV application filled out correctly. What a pain.

Should be a kiosk and as simple as Discovery pass. Want me to pay to ride in your State Park? Cool. Take my $14 and give me a random sticker that is good for a year. Christ............

 

[KHNC]

You can always just spend some money on the bike you have to freshen it up. New top end should be under 500 bucks. Then you wont have to worry about it being "fresh" . Vs if it blows up, 2-3k for a full rebuild. Then you have a bike you love that is even more reliable.

 

[Wrench]

Dmv for an OHV sticker? Been a while since I bought one of them, but I dont remember ever even telling them what the bike was. Bought the stickers from any of the dirtbike shops

Different animal here in Washington now. I can send Oregon my vin and 15 bux and they send me a sticker....good for 2 years. Washington is 80ish bucks if it is plated and 40ish if not.....then if it's plateable and you want to have orv tabs it becomes a whole new goat rope. Tabs can only come from license dealers. Some big shops used to sell tabs to the public....but good luck now.

 

[Wrench]

If you really want to see broken, look at what it takes for a motorcycle endorsement now. Privatized and big money and time.

 

[BBob]

Privatized and big money and time.

I’ve had mine since I first got my license. AZ takes it away at 65 and forces you to do it all over again. I do believe we can just go ride the skills test and skip the schools. What the schools have done is get more people on bikes that in the past couldn’t pass the skills test. I don’t know how many people I’ve encountered over the years that couldn’t get it done.

 

[Wrench]

Showing up on a #1500 bike to do a low speed course isn't exactly the recipe for success. One of my co-workers did the test last week. The vespa types had no issues, the full dress road bikes had a tough time.

 

[TheGDog]

Drz400.

Cheap
Parts everywhere
regear for trails
Have fun

Yes, had one for awhile. But might be a lil heavy and only having 5 gears can suck if your in-town duties may require a bit of fwy here and there. (Buzzin it and only achieveing like 75mph).

Also it's not fuel injected, so he may have to fuss with jetting for his elevation.

That having been said, they definitely can get with it if you've got the skills. But if ya have to pick her back up again after an oopsie, they're a lil chunky. To help that remove the buddy pegs and DEFINITELY replace the stock exhaust can with an aftermarket aluminum. That stock exhaust can is ReDONKulously heavy.

And do the 3x3 mod to the airbox lid.

Pirelli MT21's work well on it, but wear fast on street. Dunlop D606's also work pretty well, but the D606's DO NOT like snotty mud. I never got a chance to try Kenda TrakMasters on it, but they looked like a good tread design for desert-y offroad.

In terms of regearing, yeah, I think I went one tooth down on the counter-shaft sprocket.

Depending on your weight and level of aggression, you may have to re-spring the rear. I'm 220Lbs so needed a stiffer after-market.

No matter which bike you go far it's IMPERATIVE that you properly setup rear shock sag when you're seated upon it with all your riding gear on, so it's same weight as it'll be out in the field. NIGHT and DAY difference in handling.. no matter which bike we're talking about.. when the sag isn't set right.

For adjusting the front forks clickers.. what you can do is stand beside it and shove down hard on a footpeg and observe how the suspension plunges downward. Keenly observe whether or not it seems to be uniformly dipping down in terms of front vs back. You want them BOTH to dip down EQUALLY.

Do some internet research in terms of how to fine tune your clickers (front or rear) in terms of how to correct little annoyances you observe in the handling when riding at speed.

And definitely go for a FatBar (think Renthal) type of setup for the handlebars. They have a little bit of flex in them to provide some "give" on harsh landings.

Whichever bike you end up getting, I'd also recommend getting a Gel Seat too. You'll appreciate that one. Trust me.


If I was to go out and buy a new one today? It'd most likely be the Honda CRF450L. They also have done a few little clever things to help with vibration when on long drones on a hwy.

EDIT: One thing that just came to mind... since you said you currently have a KTM.. If it has a Hydraulic clutch line... then I'd just try to stick with that KTM man. If you're feeling like the motors power characteristics come on a little strong/hyper for your skill level.... then what you could do is get a slightly heavier flywheel installed to tame that down a little bit and it'll also help prevent you from stalling out in slower going. ALSO.. for weight reduction, if you have a bike with eStart.. definitely look into replacing the stock AGM type battery with a Lithium one.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

GDog- Great post. Thanks.

I personally know a handful that have/had the 450L. So many issues of Flame Out...which I guess happens often while low/slow tractoring. Which is what I do on technical single track. I'll revist.

But I DO NOT have issues with my current KTM as far as power. It's plenty. Rolls on nicely. I don't crack it open often. PLenty top end.

When I consider the heavy but reliable bikes: the new KLX300 and CRF300L. I'd love the reliability. 8000 miles for services. You can't get EITHER of them. Maybe 1 KLX used within 300 miles. No Hondas.

I do like the ability, even with my intermediate skill level....to pull a front wheel up to clear and obstacle. Cross a log. A little punch to get over and out of danger. I don't think these above bikes do that. My KTM will.

Maybe I will look into a top end on my current bike. Even for simple piece of mind.

 

[isItFallYet]

Keep the KTM and buy a dual-sport bike. There’s really not a one size fits all bike, imo. The best part about having more than one bike in the stable is that you always have a backup bike when one is down for maintenance. Also, having more than one bike will certainly make you a better rider.

 

[TheGDog]

RE: Service Interval. The reason some will have a longer service interval is because they're designed with a higher volume of oil in their system. For example, the DRZ400 also uses the front downtube for storing the extra oil volume.

And also they've backed-down the compression ratio of the engine a smidge. (Resulting in longer service life for the spark plugs! PS ALWAYS buy a spar spark-plug holder that mounts to your frame and make sure you're got a plug in it you've already set the gap on properly!) Use slightly more built bearings. etc.

If I were you.. probably what I'd do is have a known suspension guy set up your KTM for your weight and intended type of use. On dirtbikes... dailing in suspension is CRITICAL to your overall enjoyment of it.

Since you're NOT in Commiefornia.. you'd probably be able to DualSport your Katoom pretty easily. I wouldn't be surprised if the stator is already wound to produce enough wattage to run lighting.

To go the KTM route, if your focus is barely street and mostly dirt. With the idea of using it for hunting and crawling up single-track gnarly rocky technical goat trails. IF..IF... you feel the 450 seems unwieldy for you... then I'd go with that ISDE SixDays 350 they have. Double check me on this, but it'd probably have nice little features already on it that make, for example, taking the rear tire off and adjusting chain tension much easier to do out in the field. Things like the Cam-style chain tensioning adjusters at the rear axle, instead of the kind where you have to just tighten the nut on each side. They'll have airboxes that are easier to service, etc.

EDIT: BTW, when I mentioned Hydraulic clutch line previously... the reason they are kickass is because, for example, if you're having to navigate a long long windy downhill goat trail, where you're riding the brakes a lot... specially with a backpack on... that nice light clutch pull will help you tremendously in terms of arm pump. And when you're on one of thoselong windy downhill goat trails.. ooh.. your triceps are gonna BURN! HaHA!

ALSO : If you end up getting a bike with a keyed ignition.. and I cannot stress this enough!.. make sure you get yourself a wiring diagram for the wires connecting to the ignition switch, AND STUDY IT. Cause if you crash and that switch gets bashed-up.. you just might have to hot-wire it to bypass it way back in there out in the field.

 

[BBob]

Showing up on a #1500 bike to do a low speed course isn't exactly the recipe for success. One of my co-workers did the test last week. The vespa types had no issues, the full dress road bikes had a tough time.

I did mine on a street legal enduro. I have offered up various enduro's to many over the years for them to practice and test on because they couldn't pass on their big bikes. Not a one ever took me up on it and hardly any of those people ever passed and gave up. None of them had ever ridden a bike before and all I could figure was they were clueless as to why I was offering a trail bike. With the schools these days you are basically guaranteed a pass.

 

[dutch_henry]

After a lot of bikes, an '07 WR250R got the nod for me. The WR was blast on the kind of swampy logging roads and ledgy trails we have in New England. It was surprisingly capable on the highway connecting up trail networks. My friend actually raced his WRR on an MX course, for giggles. (Sure, maybe he got lapped by a girl about his daughter's age, but she was a virtuoso, ok?)

But what I'm really trying to say is that you should fly to Vermont, drink all the maple syrup and craft beer you can handle, buy my nicely farkled WRR, and ride west into the sunset.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Grew up S of you a few states. Stockings stuffed with those maple sugar pressed Maple Leaf candies.....Holy Schitt! More insulin spike than McDonald's orange drink.

 

[isItFallYet]

to pull a front wheel up to clear and obstacle. Cross a log. A little punch to get over and out of danger. I don't think these above bikes do that.

You can do this with any bike listed above. All of them have a clutch. I can do it on my son’s TTR125L. Just buy another bike, keep your existing bike; since you have it sorta mastered. Compare the differences (this will make you a better rider). Find out what you like and sell one, or both. Then upgrade. I’m extremely happy and trust (no breakdowns), a KTM 350xcf. This bike is super reliable (knock on wood), and a rocket! It took 20+ bikes to find the perfect one, and I’ve been riding for 30+ years.

Dirtbikes are meant to be a mental escape, make sure yours is capable of making that happen.

 

[signing off]

You posted the 13 tooth sprocket was 1 down from stock. If you switched to the 14, then you will end up with less aggressive behavior from throttle input, better "road" capabilities and a little bit longer engine life from less RPMS.
The ability to run forest roads in minutes instead of hours in a vehicle is EPIC SWEET. I have had street legal rough road bikes for years. Never seem to find the PERFECT one. Will keep trying.
My wife has been super happy with an XT250 and it is a great exploration/hunting type bike. I treat it like a trials bike for slow speed practice. Fun.

 

[TheGDog]

Pssh... yeah yeah... a 450 4t or a 500-ish 4t is fun and all that... but when you're ready to take it next-level.. may I suggest a Kawasaki KX500 2-Stroke!

 

[TheGDog]

After a lot of bikes, an '07 WR250R got the nod for me.

I'm surprised they dropped the WR250R. And also surprised they didn't come out with a WR450R? Seeing how popular people felt about the WR250R.

 

[Felix40]

You posted the 13 tooth sprocket was 1 down from stock. If you switched to the 14, then you will end up with less aggressive behavior from throttle input, better "road" capabilities and a little bit longer engine life from less RPMS.
The ability to run forest roads in minutes instead of hours in a vehicle is EPIC SWEET. I have had street legal rough road bikes for years. Never seem to find the PERFECT one. Will keep trying.
My wife has been super happy with an XT250 and it is a great exploration/hunting type bike. I treat it like a trials bike for slow speed practice. Fun.

Do you have the newer fuel injected xt or the old version? How does it handle climbing steep hills and slow technical trails?

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

You posted the 13 tooth sprocket was 1 down from stock. If you switched to the 14, then you will end up with less aggressive behavior from throttle input, better "road" capabilities and a little bit longer engine life from less RPMS.
The ability to run forest roads in minutes instead of hours in a vehicle is EPIC SWEET. I have had street legal rough road bikes for years. Never seem to find the PERFECT one. Will keep trying.
My wife has been super happy with an XT250 and it is a great exploration/hunting type bike. I treat it like a trials bike for slow speed practice. Fun.

Current bike is NOT terribly aggressive. Love the 13T. Replaced with new 13 to keep it low geared. IF....I wanted more Dual Sport (gawd I hate those words....it's nails on a chalk board....just like "Overlanding") I get the 14 will be better all around and less RPMs.

 

[signing off]

Do you have the newer fuel injected xt or the old version? How does it handle climbing steep hills and slow technical trails?

We have had both. And we live in the Ozarks so pretty tame compared to western steep. It does well in slow tricky stuff. But the suspension is relatively soft. Fast trail excitement is better left to higher spec bikes.