Scope adjustment lag

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How is the laser used while shooting?

Are you aware that letting the barrel cool down is an unnecessary waste of your own time, or that lead sleds are known to kill optics?

Shoot me a pm if you'd like a video call on mounting the new scope.
 
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How is the laser used while shooting?

Are you aware that letting the barrel cool down is an unnecessary waste of your own time, or that lead sleds are known to kill optics?

Shoot me a pm if you'd like a video call on mounting the new scope.
The laser is for sighting in a new scope. The post was in a response to mounting scopes.

Yes, I have wondered about that lead sled and don't use it. I have concerns about my rifles also without recoil pads. The other thing I don't like is it can cause some rifles to rise, since they are not going back.

I disagree about cool down. Some rifles need it. The 30-06 I was shooting yesterday, needs it. The wood contacts the barrel. First two shots are 1", but if you don;t let it cool they open it up, My 760 opens up too,

The 300 win mag, I am not sure but it is a thinner barrel to cut down on weight. The idea of letting barrels cools for sight in or checking loads, is not something I made up
 

Drenalin

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2-3" apart. Again as sun goes down, and warm barrel. Maybe rushing. Most of my shooting is after work. Good enough hopefully to do a lung shot at the last minute of day light, but not good for setting up scope.

I didn't need to use any tape on the holes.
I don't think it's a warm barrel, unless your barrel is screwed up. This is the Mesa in 300 WM? You mentioned flyers earlier in the thread...I'm not insulting you here, but you may be flinching from recoil (or from muzzle blast if it's braked). I'd also recommend leaving the lead sled in the cabin and shooting off bags - one under the front, one under the back.

There are a myriad of things that could be happening with you, the rifle, the scope, the scope mounting. At 2-3" at 100 yards, you're probably a lot more average than the internet would lead you to believe.
 

Drenalin

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81e9ys.jpg


@fwafwow You slippin
 
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I don't think it's a warm barrel, unless your barrel is screwed up. This is the Mesa in 300 WM? You mentioned flyers earlier in the thread...I'm not insulting you here, but you may be flinching from recoil (or from muzzle blast if it's braked). I'd also recommend leaving the lead sled in the cabin and shooting off bags - one under the front, one under the back.

There are a myriad of things that could be happening with you, the rifle, the scope, the scope mounting. At 2-3" at 100 yards, you're probably a lot more average than the internet would lead you to believe.
I have not been using the lead sled I do believe spread is me, But I do know I got guns that open up.

I have cat litter bag full of sand, store bough bag, rock jr, and now the cadwell tack driver.

I have also used squeeze bag and rock jr, for probably my best results.

I have also loaded up some dummies, in case I am flinching. I don't think I am, but I am blinking, so its possible
 

Marbles

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I disagree about cool down. Some rifles need it. The 30-06 I was shooting yesterday, needs it. The wood contacts the barrel. First two shots are 1", but if you don;t let it cool they open it up, My 760 opens up too,

The 300 win mag, I am not sure but it is a thinner barrel to cut down on weight. The idea of letting barrels cools for sight in or checking loads, is not something I made up
You are correct that some rifles need it, though this is the result of an improperly stress relieved barrel, a quality barrel does not. However, the cold bore idea has been around for some time and is a very common misconception.

Mirage can cause vertical stinging because it bends the light. A shooter can cause groups to open up, particularly if recoil is heavy.
 
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You are correct that some rifles need it, though this is the result of an improperly stress relieved barrel, a quality barrel does not. However, the cold bore idea has been around for some time and is a very common misconception.
I think the misconception is people with expensive or new rifles saying heat is not an issue.

I got 1970s 700, wood is rough,and contacts barrel. It opens up.

Maybe the messa is quality enough gun not to be effected. My first 2 shots yesterday where 1" apart. My 30-06 grouped but I shot it less.

I think if you want to get perfect load testing or scope set up it needs to cool. More so with lighter barrels

At my camp I take longer breaks, but getting to be issue as it gets dark earlier.

Rock jr and squeeze bag about 3/4 are an inch. I do suspect some are **** ups. Term flyers upsets people, some of those are me.
 
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if the mesa is free floated it should be fine as it gets hot.

 
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I'm just glad OP bought a Trijicon because if he'd have bought another Leupold I know exactly how this thread would've gone. :)
Yes if I shot same there would be civil unrest

1st two inch apart. Moved 1 up half over. So close to where I dialed yesterday. But not where shots went.

Now wait 15 minutes for the cliff hanger
 
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I don't have time for lots of shooting. I want cool barrel

Bad sequel. Off inch both ways. Maybe me.

But the next one right on. One more, and have to leave

No more adjustments until have enough to know for sure.
 
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1 and half" adjust after first two. Which grouped. Clean barrel.

I think just me. Keep shooting for group.
 

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We sure got a lot of variables going on in this little petrie dish here.

Also, I feel like I'm watching a car crash in slow motion. I know whats happening, and I know what's going to happen, I am powerless to make it stop happening, but I still can't take my eyes off it.
 

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Zerk, I'm genuinely frustated at you, quit putting up with easily fixable shit that just gets in the way of your valuable range time. Pull that friggin 1970's stock that's touching the barrel, wrap a piece of 150 grit around a socket that fits the barrel channel, and commence rubbing. Keep doing it until you can easily slide a business card all the way back to the action with the action installed. Wipe down the inside of the freshly sanded barrel channel with some exterior polyurethane varnish and let dry 24 hours. Add a second coat and let dry another 24 hours. Now reinstall action, torque to whatever torque setting you use, and get a real zero.
 
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Zerk, I'm genuinely frustated at you, quit putting up with easily fixable shit that just gets in the way of your valuable range time. Pull that friggin 1970's stock that's touching the barrel, wrap a piece of 150 grit around a socket that fits the barrel channel, and commence rubbing. Keep doing it until you can easily slide a business card all the way back to the action with the action installed. Wipe down the inside of the freshly sanded barrel channel with some exterior polyurethane varnish and let dry 24 hours. Add a second coat and let dry another 24 hours. Now reinstall action, torque to whatever torque setting you use, and get a real zero.
I have been tempted to do that. But it was my grandfather's and I am reluctant. But I do think about gentle sand and coat of poly.

I have gotten this rifle to 1". Though never shot a deer over 45 yards with it.

Most site in to 20-30 yards around here

Also 2 shots deer hunting is plenty.
 
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