Please recommend a mid-tier backcountry/solo deer hunting rifle

Lawnboi

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I agree on principle but "felt" recoil is subjective and impacted by many other factors. It can also be mitigated more economically than buying a whole new setup. A gunsmith could probably install a brake for less than $200, half the cost of even a decent scope.

The .30-06 is not a flashy or sexy round, but it is still one of the most versatile available and ammo is generally easy to locate online and in brick and mortar. There are very few animals that you can't target and kill with this cartridge with the wide variety, weight, and types of bullets available. In addition, +/- $2/round ammo is pretty common IME these days unless I'm looking in the wrong place. The last 2 boxes of .308 i bought were around $38- Browning 168 TMK and Hornady 168 ELD.

If money isn't an issue, then I'd tell the OP by all means go by another rifle. However, if money is a consideration, there's absolutely no reason to toss what he already has.
While I generally agree to the just buy more ammo approach, I still don’t think it’s the best way to learn to shoot longer range in the OP case.

I’m well aware of the recoil difference. I was taught to shoot on a sub 10 pound 3006, Iv shot with many people who were taught to shoot with lightweight 3006 or similar. It dosnt work. If shooting precisely at 400 plus yards is the goal, it takes time behind the gun and building good habits. I don’t think there are many who can build good habits with something that recoils like a 3006 shooting a 180 grain bullet. 20-30 shots out of my 11lb 3006 supressed is about all I care to do in a sitting. Yes it’s doable, but I’d still dump the savage and hit the easy button.

Re the brake. I don’t think a brake has any place on a mid range hunting rifle. They lessen felt recoil, but increase blast and concussion, and Iv seen the latter create more of a flinch than the push. Shooting a loud braked rifle for me requires much more mental focus that shooting bare muzzle or suppressed. Not to mention hunting with the thing. Many think a brake is the answer for the range then take it off for hunting, thats a backwards way of figuring out if your prepared for the shot as well.

Ammo prices suck now, but the OP could order a case of 6.5 Hornady match tomorrow and be on his way. I bought a bunch of factory ammo for the 3006 I had built last summer for the brass, it took me 3 months to amass 120 rounds, every place I ordered or bought it limited me to a couple boxes at a time. All the ammo is expensive. Getting the most out of that ammo is important.

I did similar to the OP when I wanted that one rifle to rule them all and bought a 300 win mag, figuring it would do it all and be okay to learn with. That was a mistake and a waste of money when it came to actually learning to shoot.
 

woods89

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A few points. These are my opinions, YMMV.

1- Vortex Vipers are not exactly known for zero retention.

2- Its easy to banter 650 yds around, but it's going to take a round count probably high 3 digits or more in varied circumstances before most people have any business shooting that far in the field.

3- Brakes are not fun. I hate shooting with people who have them. Sooner or later you will likely forget plugs in the field and you will get your bell rung.

4- Recoil is a bigger problem than most want to admit.

5- I've seen enough wound channels in various animals to be comfortable breaking a shoulder at the outer fringe of my self imposed range limit with my 6.5 Creedmoor and appropriate bullets. I'm not a long range shooter in the field, though. Use an appropriate bullet and put it in the right place, and you'll likely be happy.
 
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ihuntsolo

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I also think the caliber is more of a detriment to you than the rifle, and is another reason I’d get another.

Learning on 2$ plus rounds that wear you out within a box is going to do more harm then good. Recoil also solidifies bad habits when learning to shoot longer
Yes, I feel the pain of the cost of 30-06. And 6.5CM seems quite bit cheaper. I just returned from Cabela's and looked at some of the Tikka there ($950 range). it feels maybe 1.5 lbs lighter. What lighter mid-tier scopes (44 vs 50) are best on it? Right now I have a Viper 4-16x50 and it is heavy.
 
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As many have said, your Savage will certainly get the job done. If you move off of that, the Tikka would be my first choice.

For optics, easy to run the budget up here. I would avoid dialing and find a 1” tube with a hold over reticle you like.
 
OP
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ihuntsolo

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Not to mention the fact that the vast majority of factory rifles that came off the line in 2002 are higher quality than what you get now.

OP, if I were you, I'd get a nicer scope, some good quality mounts, puck up a bunch if ammo and go practice.

Also re: the rear bag, fill a boot sock with airsoft BBs and tie it off. Been using that setup for 10 years and have yet to find a rear bag I like as much and I'd be amazed if you could get it to 1/10th the cost of buying one.
Thanks for the idea of a sock full of airsoft BBs!
 
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ihuntsolo

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As many have said, your Savage will certainly get the job done. If you move off of that, the Tikka would be my first choice.

For optics, easy to run the budget up here. I would avoid dialing and find a 1” tube with a hold over reticle you like.
Now I am thinking of just keeping the Savage, and buy a Tikka with a new scope. Any good place to buy Tikka other than Cabelas and Sportmans Warehouse (the two I know)?

Any recommendations of reliable 1" tube (FFP or SFP - which one)? The Cabela guys told me the average deer hunting range in Idaho is about 375 yards.
 
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5- I've seen enough wound channels in various animals to be comfortable breaking a shoulder at the outer fringe of my self imposed range limit with my 6.5 Creedmoor and appropriate bullets. I'm not a long range shooter in the field, though. Use an appropriate bullet and put it in the right place, and you'll likely be happy.
Don't disagree and the same can be said for the rifle OP already has. Inside 500 with good marksmanship there is nothing a creed can do that -06 can't already do.

Any recommendations of reliable 1" tube (FFP or SFP - which one)? The Cabela guys told me the average deer hunting range in Idaho is about 375 yards.
SWFA
 
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ihuntsolo

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I really appreciate all the help I got so far from great people on this site.

Just browse through the Tikka website and the cabelas site. I am overwhelmed by all different models. So any specific models mainly for mule deer hunting in the western open country, backpacking/solo style? My budget is $1000 to 1500 for the rifle, and $1000 for a lighter scope.
 

wnelson14

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BIG thanks to you all for the helpful suggestions. I think I will practice for now (ouch for the expensive ammo) a lot with the Savage 110 before thinking about upgrading. Tikka does look very interesting. Further question:
I am trying to find a solution for mounting the Savage synthetic stock onto my tripod. I plan to use my Vanguard VEO 2 265CF (ball head, load capacity 17 lbs) for both glassing and shooting. My current Savage + Scope combo weighs 8 lbs. I read I may need to mount a ARCA rail plate and drill a couple of holes at the bottom of the stock? I tried the BOP DeathGrip option but that is over 1 lbs additional weight and bulky. Any better solutions for resting the Savage 110 to my tripod?
Wiser precision quick stix, won’t attach to a tripod but super light weight if you carry trekking poles for a rest
 

Deywalker

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Sep 18, 2021
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The easy button would be a T3X in 6.5/.223, T084 rings, and hunting down a 6x mil-quad or 3-9 SWFA. If you want a scope now, you can get the 10x or 3-15 SWFA. Unfortunately you just missed their 4th of July sale.

If you want to keep your Savage but want to increase your round count to become more proficient, you could always get a .22lr trainer.
 
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