My knife builds

[rifletuner]

Yet another version of my hunter blade. Nitro V steel with a tapered tang and full flat grind. Handle is ivory G10 and copper Corby bolts.

 

[rifletuner]

This is one I made a while ago. It has a few flaws, so I put it aside for a while trying to decide what to do with it. I was thinking about grinding the handle off an redoing the bevels. But I decided the wood I used for the handle is too nice to destroy. So I finished it off over the last week and it will be going to a keen deer hunter to test for me,

I think the blade is S35VN steel with a full flat grind and a tapered tang. This one has more of a drop point than what I usually put on my hunters. The handle is Gidgee with blue G10 liners, brass Loveless bolts & brass lanyard tube. First time I have used a blue liner with Gidgee and quite like how it turned out. The handle has about 10 coats of liquid wax rubbed into it, so a new finish I havent tried before.

 

[rifletuner]

This one is another of my hunter blades. I have been getting some really good feedback on this design. I have one with a hunter who has caped out and broken down 3 sambar stags with it in the last two weeks. He reports that he is getting through the whole animal no problem without a resharpen, then he gives it a freshen-up on a diamond stone before the next hunt.

This one is Nitro V steel with a tapered tang and full flat grind. The bevel is ground down to .2mm before the edge to make it nice and slicey. The handle is camo G10 with a thin orange and white liners & brass Loveless bolts. The sheath is army green kydex.

 

[copenmechanism]

This one is another of my hunter blades. I have been getting some really good feedback on this design. I have one with a hunter who has caped out and broken down 3 sambar stags with it in the last two weeks. He reports that he is getting through the whole animal no problem without a resharpen, then he gives it a freshen-up on a diamond stone before the next hunt.

This one is Nitro V steel with a tapered tang and full flat grind. The bevel is ground down to .2mm before the edge to make it nice and slicey. The handle is camo G10 with a thin orange and white liners & brass Loveless bolts. The sheath is army green kydex.

These hunters are super sexy blades!

 

[rifletuner]

These hunters are super sexy blades!

Thanks mate

 

[rifletuner]

Just finished another boner over the weekend. Steel is 2.5mm AEBL stainless. Bevel is a hollow grind with a very thin, slicey edge. Handles are from an Australian native wood mallee burl with orange resin, orange G10 liners and G10 pins and a hand rubbed Aussie oil finish.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Wow!

 

[rifletuner]

Wow!

Thanks mate

 

[elkguide]

Impressive! You sure are talented.
Wish that I lived closer to see your work in person.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[rifletuner]

Impressive! You sure are talented.
Wish that I lived closer to see your work in person.
Thanks for sharing.

Thanks mate

Im probably only 25 or so hours travel away, so no excuses really

 

[BBob]

Just finished another boner over the weekend. Steel is 2.5mm AEBL stainless. Bevel is a hollow grind with a very thin, slicey edge. Handles are from an Australian native wood mallee burl with orange resin, orange G10 liners and G10 pins and a hand rubbed Aussie oil finish.

Very Nice! Another favorite.

 

[rifletuner]

Very Nice! Another favorite.

Thanks mate I was pretty happy with how it came up.

 

[rifletuner]

I made this one as a tribute knife based on the Loveless/Schrade RL-2 model from the early 1970s. Blade is a flat grind drop point in 2.5mm SF100 steel. Bevel is ground to around .2mm on the edge, which google tells me is just under 8 thou so should be very slicey. The handle is a tapered tang with Richlite handle scales, G10 liners and Loveless bolts. The thinner steel and Richlite handle help to keep the weight down, but it should work very well for most game prep tasks.

 

[BBob]

I made this one as a tribute knife based on the Loveless/Schrade RL-2 model from the early 1970s. Blade is a flat grind drop point in 2.5mm SF100 steel. Bevel is ground to around .2mm on the edge, which google tells me is just under 8 thou so should be very slicey. The handle is a tapered tang with Richlite handle scales, G10 liners and Loveless bolts. The thinner steel and Richlite handle help to keep the weight down, but it should work very well for most game prep tasks.

Nice!!! I really like the handle shape and the way it works with the blade. The continuous arch over the top looks cool. To my eye it's a great looking combo. It's functional Art

 

[rifletuner]

Nice!!! I really like the handle shape and the way it works with the blade. The continuous arch over the top looks cool. To my eye it's a great looking combo. It's functional Art

Thanks mate All credit to Bob Loveless. He got a lot right & hes the king of functional art as far as I am concerned.

 

[NRA4LIFE]

These pics never cease to amaze me, you are very talented. What part of Australia do you live? I worked with a whole bunch of guys from the area around Adelaide on a few programs. You're pics urged me to try one on my own. Got a Damascus blank off Amazon and hope to do a deer horn handle with brass rivets.