My knife builds

[BBob]

^^^Very nice!

 

[rifletuner]

^^^Very nice!

Thanks mate

 

[Ninjaman]

Looks well made! But why such a large heel on the blades?

 

[rifletuner]

Looks well made! But why such a large heel on the blades?

Any one in particular? Not sure which you are referring to.

 

[Ninjaman]

Any one in particular? Not sure which you are referring to.

The first elmax-one and the Bark River look alike. I really think they look good and probably cut just as well. But leaving almost stock thickness at the heel makes field sharpening really hard. I apologise if my language sound harsh or is lacking nuance. English is not my primary language and I am just trying to give constructive feedback on already great work!

 

[rifletuner]

Okay, I understand what you are referring to now. I guess you prefer a sharpening choil? I do make them that way if requested, but I personally dont think a choil is required. I have no problem sharpening them as they are. I guess its personal opinion on what you prefer.

 

[Ninjaman]

Okay, I understand what you are referring to now. I guess you prefer a sharpening choil? I do make them that way if requested, but I personally dont think a choil is required. I have no problem sharpening them as they are. I guess it's personal opinion on what you prefer.

Yes, like most thing a matter of preferences. But a choil gives more or longer usable edge-line. Nevertheless, nice blades!

 

[rifletuner]

Last weekend I exhibited knives at my first knife show in Melbourne, Australia. I had a very hectic week leading up to the show, trying to finish off knives before the start of the show on Saturday morning.

This knife is a modification of a design I have made before. It takes onboard some suggestions from when I had my knives assessed about 8 weeks ago. This version has more drop at the point, and also a slight false edge to taper the point to a sharper point to make the initial cuts a little easier.

The blade is 3mm NitroV with a full flat grind. The handle is ivory G10, with red G10 liners, brass Loveless bolts and a brass lanyard tube.

This photo is from my table at the show on Saturday before the doors opened. It was the first knife I sold, so I never got a chance to take better photos.

 

[intunegp]

Thought you guys might enjoy some photos of my latest boner. The steel is 2.5mm NitroV, with a slight hollow grind in the bevel which tapers to about 0.2mm to give it a slicey edge. The handles are camo G10 with G10 orange & white liners and G10 pins.

Well there's a sentence I never thought I'd read on Rokslide. Sorry, couldn't help myself. Nice looking knives, keep up the good work!

 

[rifletuner]

Well there's a sentence I never thought I'd read on Rokslide. Sorry, couldn't help myself. Nice looking knives, keep up the good work!

Thanks mate. Im always happy to share photos of my boner. Glad to see they are appreciated

 

[BBob]

This knife is a modification of a design I have made before. It takes onboard some suggestions from when I had my knives assessed about 8 weeks ago. This version has more drop at the point, and also a slight false edge to taper the point to a sharper point to make the initial cuts a little easier.

I like it!

 

[rifletuner]

I like it!

Thanks mate

 

[mobohunter]

These knives are great, how well do these kydex sheaths fit? Any recommendations on how to properly fit one?

 

[rifletuner]

These knives are great, how well do these kydex sheaths fit? Any recommendations on how to properly fit one?

Hi mate. Thanks for the comments.

The number one thing I have found for successful forming of kydex is that you want it as hot as possible, without actually burning the kydex. The hotter you get it (without going too far) then the better the press will be.

I use the proper high density foam sold by the knife making supply houses. I tried using a cheap foam mate cut up, but wasnt happy with the results. Though I was not heating the kydex as hot back then, so it may have worked better with the cut up mat once I worked out the heat part, but I dont know. Also, people often tape the blade to give a little clearance. I did too when I started, but I have found I get a better result without taping the blade. And I probably used too many rivets when I started. Now I use less, but still get good results.

 

[rifletuner]

A few months ago after going to the Melbourne knife show, I decided I was going to get a table at Australia's biggest knife show in Sydney. In the lead up to the show, I was madly trying to finish knives that I wanted to bring with me. I fully intended to photograph all the knives I made before I left for the show. But of course I worked late into Thursday night, then left home at 0715 Friday morning to drive 10 hours up to Sydney. So I really only just got a chance to start photographing what I made now that I am back home.

This is a hunter pattern I have made for a few years. The steel is 3mm NitroV, with cryo treatment after the heat treat. The blade is a full flat grind down to .2mm at the edge. The tang tapers to about 1mm. The handle material is the Australian native timber gidgee, with 1mm red G10 liners and copper Loveless bolts. The handle has a hand rubbed oil finish. I also made a near identical model with stainless Loveless bolts, but that one sold at the show. It had better figure in the handle material, so pretty sure that is why the guy went for that particular knife. The last photo is off my table at the show just after I set up Saturday morning.

 

[mobohunter]

How is the fitment with the leather sheaths? I like the look of that better than the kydex

 

[rifletuner]

How is the fitment with the leather sheaths? I like the look of that better than the kydex

The fit is really good. Its a friction fit with about 3/4 of the knife in the sheath. I agree leather looks a lot better than kydex. I generally always put wood handled knives in leather, but it also depends on what people want. Kydex is practical and light, but leather looks better to me.

 

[rifletuner]

Another version of my hunter blade. Nitro V steel with a tapered tang and full flat grind. Handle is black and blue G10 laminate and stainless Corby bolts, with a kydex sheath.

 

[BBob]

The fit is really good. Its a friction fit with about 3/4 of the knife in the sheath. I agree leather looks a lot better than kydex. I generally always put wood handled knives in leather, but it also depends on what people want. Kydex is practical and light, but leather looks better to me.

I don't know how I missed these. They look great!

 

[rifletuner]

I don't know how I missed these. They look great!

Thanks mate. They turned out really well. I dont actually do my own leather work, but the guy who does them for me does really good work. He took my concept and executed it spot on.