Montana Rifle Co, Shoot2Hunt, and Rokslide Rifle

[6mm Remington]

If they actually sold, I’m sure they would. Unfortunately 6mm REM is functionally dead, and 280AI will be in the not too distant future.

Sad to see as both are fantastic.

 

[Formidilosus]

Sad to see as both are fantastic.

Yes they are.

A point that does get lost in the “short fat” cartridge realm, is that long, skinny, and tapered cartridges feed like they have eyes.

 

[6mm Remington]

Genuine question, not trying to be a d!ck in asking, but why do we need either of those offerings? Form mentioned 6 creedmoor and 7 PRC in the list of available chamberings, which both do everything the 6 rem and 280 AI will do plus a ton more. They’re both objectively superior and have better market support, so what would a 6 REM and 280 AI add value wise?

They were both here before either of those two cartridges and in a faster twist barrel to upgrade them they could do as much if not more than the 6mm Creedmoor and would be right on the heels of the 7mm PRC. Both are such great cartridges I just hate to see either of them disappear.

 

[ljalberta]

20 MOA integrated rail?

I’ll be getting one either way.

 

[robby denning]

Yes they are.

A point that does get lost in the “short fat” cartridge realm, is that long, skinny, and tapered cartridges feed like they have eyes.

first thing I noticed when I went fat and short, hard to feed.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

A Tikka really isn't the right comparison. This is more of a crf competitor to the sako s20 push feed, but with better barrel lengths out of the box. Dunno if I will buy one since I keep killing stuff with my bow, but it is definitely a rifle to recommend.

 

[RWT]

Just put me on the list now. I assume I can sell enough blood by then to afford one in 22CM

 

[z987k]

If they actually sold, I’m sure they would. Unfortunately 6mm REM is functionally dead, and 280AI will be in the not too distant future.

The only issue I have with the 7PRC from a hunting standpoint is you have to be hunting at really far distances to need it over the lighter recoiling 280ai. Somewhere around 1000yards by my math. And you get less in the magazine.

 

[HingleMcCringleberry]

I've been lucky. Never paid over 600 for prefit barrel, and a chop/thread cost me 120 bucks.

 

[Ajsomp]

The true question is which rifle to order out the gate - 6 creed or 22 creed. I see a lot of people touting the 22 creed right now but it’s hard to ignore the various bullet choices for 6 creed. Either way - I don’t own either caliber so it would be a good way to justify a new rifle

 

[Harvey_NW]

$350- cut and thread barrel

Just throwing this out there for Roksliders to take advantage of, Kinport Peak Rifles will cut/thread/crown for $120, and he tries to do a threading day every week or 2 so you usually get them back in a timely manner. Great guy to deal with. Carry on!

 

[Spoonbill]

I’ve looked at what similar crf actions would cost and the price on this seems like a deal. A g series model 70 that has been bedded, rebarrelled, new stock etc would be right in line with what this cost if not more. Some smiths do better work than others, and cost goes up.

 

[fwafwow]

In. Now to find someone to buy my other rifles.

 

[WyldGoose]

It'll be interesting to see how this project might help push more companies to consider offering these calibers, fast twist, shorter barrels, proper assembly, etc...
Also wondering how this might affect Rokstok production.

 

[Marbles]

You can’t buy a Tikka like that, with the assembly, function, and precision proven.

I agree, but I'm going to push back on some numbers just for accuracies sake, though even having a set up Tikka already I may buy on of these.

Cost breakdown:

If you use factory barrel:
$850- Tikka T3 Lite stainless
$350- cut and thread barrel
$595- ROKstock
$70- extra mag
$130- bolt and handle

Total= $1,995

Lets ignore that if one shops around, a stainless T3x can found for $100 less.

My last cut and thread this spring cost me $240, that includs shipping, thread adapter, thread protector, and rocksett.

RokStok can be had for $515 shipped.

UM bolt handle and knob is $70, no extra shipping if ordered with RokStok.

Even in AK have not payed more than $50 total for a Tikka mag.

So $1,725 for anyone who has mild mechanical skills. If they shop around, $1,600 is doable.

If you use an AI or metal bottom metal and a pic rail, you are at about $2300. That’s a good deal for a very functional rifle. However, it will also generally take anywhere from 1-3 months to ship the parts, have a smith work on it and ship it back.

$80 for an Area419 20 MOA rail, for me add $120 for Lumley Arctic bottom metal.

So, $1,935 including a tube of loctite and JB weld for the Pic rail. (If I'm not screwing up the math in my head). While not normal, I picked up my 243 T3x lite SS for under $600 this spring out the door brand new.

Add a smith and of course cost goes up. If someone doesn't have basic tools, cost goes up, but tools are much more valuable than having someone else do the work.

Good prefits are expensive. I have a hard time paying the cost of the entire rifle for a barrel, one reason why 243 and 22-250 will probably be what I buy/stick with vs 6 and 22 creed (reloading helps there of course).

If you rebarrel it is-

$850- Tikka T3 Lite stainless
$800’ish- barrel, chambered, cut, thread
$595- ROKstock
$70- extra mag
$130- bolt and handle


Total= $2,445. If you add an AI or metal bottom metal, and a pic rail it’ll be $2,700 to $2,800. Still a very good rifle- as Tikka’s have always been. However, now you are looking at 4-8 months to get your rifle.



And- neither option did someone fully vet the rifle. To pay a gunsmith to degrease, thread lock, and torque (if they they even do it correctly); as well run 100 rounds through the two included mags, plus proof it with a 10 round sub 1.5 MOA group- you are looking at anywhere from $500 to $1,000 (real numbers that I have been quoted).

So to achieve the same package, you are sending guns and parts to a smith, waiting 4-8 months, and paying as much or more to do so.

If someone wants everything done for then, agree. Most people hopefully have the competence to do it themselves.

But, let’s say between a Tikka setup identically and the MRC/S2H, it’s more about CRF versus PF on an individual preference level, as well as full warranty and factory support.

Do not get it confused- a properly setup T3 as above is the best currently available push-feed rifle on the market for general field shooting.
However, there are advantages to a properly done CRF. Number one is the elimination of “double feeds” due failure to eject from short stroking the bolt then pulling back and try to chamber another round. This happens a lot when people get stressed. A properly timed CRF captures the rim the moment it releases from the mag and will eject it if the bolt is pulled back. Even if due to the mags, the CRF doesn’t control the rim immediately, when the bolt is pushed forward the extractor snaps over the rim, and when the bolt is pulled back- it ejects. CRF is excellent for controlling the feeding, and ejecting of rounds.

Number two, is the open M70 style trigger. The closed Tikka/Sako trigger has very good reliability in very austere environments, especially with ice and snow. It is also a relatively safe trigger system when dropped. However, the old M70 trigger is also very reliable in ice, snow, sand, and debris; and it has a mechanical block on the firing pin with the 3-position safety making it virtually impossible to fire if dropped.

Number three is the integral Picatinny rail. The T3x has an integral rail, and it works, but Picatinny is the standard, is “better”, and integral rails are the way.




The conclusion is that while a correctly setup and optimized T3x is a very, very good rifle- and if you want a PF it’s the best option; you can’t walk into a store and buy it. Regardless, I would absolutely rather have this MRC/RS/UM/S2H rifle as it comes from the box- than any rifle built by any shop in the country, that I didn’t assemble and vet.

The CRF (and a wood RokStok which adds $1k to the above Tikka), an integrated pic rail, and nitride which adds $350 if I disassemble and send it to H&M personally are what make this very attractive.

Yes they are.

A point that does get lost in the “short fat” cartridge realm, is that long, skinny, and tapered cartridges feed like they have eyes.

The other reason I may stick with 243 and 22-250, the tapered case will feed and extract more reliably. Small difference with modern powders, but on the margins the advantage remains (at the cost of no optimal factory loadings and less than ideal throat dimensions on factory barrels).

 

[MT_Wyatt]

Just for conversation-

I’m not sure how it is “lower end custom action”. It is literally matched like, held to, and made like every good “custom” action. The MRC action takes prefits, is more reliable, has a way more reliable trigger system, and has less bolt bind than about any non European or Scandinavian action.

As a field action, I would positively choose the MRC over any “custom” action on the market currently.

That’s totally fair, good clarification. I obviously don’t know much about the action and did not know it takes pre fits. Everything coming out of this conversation sounds better and better though.

 

[Formidilosus]

I agree, but I'm going to push back on some numbers just for accuracies sake, though even having a set up Tikka already I may buy on of these.

Lets ignore that if one shops around, a stainless T3x can found for $100 less.

It’s retail to retail. The “I found a good deal” is not a legitimate argument- one day you’ll be able to find a good deal on an MRC.

My last cut and thread this spring cost me $240, that includs shipping, thread adapter, thread protector, and rocksett.

Agin, good deal- that isn’t the going rate for the market. The vast majority of smiths are between $200 and $300 for a cut and thread- then add shipping.

RokStok can be had for $515 shipped.

A railed RokStok costs $515?

UM bolt handle and knob is $70, no extra shipping if ordered with RokStok.

You are correct. I believe they were more this summer? I will edit the original post.

Even in AK have not payed more than $50 total for a Tikka mag.

For a Tikka mag, yes. I was thinking AI mag- which between $62-$75 right now.

So $1,725 for anyone who has mild mechanical skills. If they shop around, $1,600 is doable.

$80 for an Area419 20 MOA rail, for me add $120 for Lumley Arctic bottom metal.

So, $1,935 including a tube of loctite and JB weld for the Pic rail. (If I'm not screwing up the math in my head). While not normal, I picked up my 243 T3x lite SS for under $600 this spring out the door brand new.

Again- the “I can shop around and find good deals” is not, was not, and should not be argued. Thats like me saying why I won’t buy a new rifle from someone because I could get a Tikka for cost, get a Rokstok, the bolt handle/knob, and the bottom metal for cost; get a free barrel, and have several smiths that will do the work for free.

Add a smith and of course cost goes up. If someone doesn't have basic tools, cost goes up, but tools are much more valuable than having someone else do the work.

I’m not trying to convince you to buy one. People that are buying a factory rifle, don’t want to screw around with that. If someone wants a great rifle for the lowest cost- yes Tikka is the answer.

If someone wants everything done for then, agree. Most people hopefully have the competence to do it themselves.

I would bet that the number of people on this board that assemble a rifle as MRC is going to do for these would fit in a living room.

This rifle is offering everything done correctly from the factory with no headache. Pull rifle out of the box, properly mount a good scope, zero, go hunt.

The CRF (and a wood RokStok which adds $1k to the above Tikka), an integrated pic rail, and nitride which adds $350 if I disassemble and send it to H&M personally are what make this very attractive.

The stock on the MRC rifle is carbon fiber.

 

[Formidilosus]

@Marbles

My last post reads harshly- it was not intended that way.

 

[Firth]

This rifle is offering everything done correctly from the factory with no headache. Pull rifle out of the box, properly mount a good scope, zero, go hunt.

Be honest though. How hard would it be for you to skip pulling the barreled action out and checking to see if there is any grease on the threads and that it is properly torqued. Old habits die hard. I'm not sure I could do it.

Looks like a good setup.

 

[WBT]

I’m excited for the project and I’m definitely interested in grabbing a 22CM.