Will there be a preorder?
Definitely interested, but also curious on the value vs a tikka that’s cut/threaded and has a rokstok (say $1600ish). What kind of hunter would benefit from the extra cost vs just staying with a tikka?
You can’t buy a Tikka like that, with the assembly, function, and precision proven.
Cost breakdown:
If you use factory barrel:
$850- Tikka T3 Lite stainless
$350- cut and thread barrel
$595- ROKstock
$70- extra mag (Ai)
$70- bolt and handle
Total= $1,935
If you use an AI or metal bottom metal and a pic rail, you are at about $2240. That’s a good deal for a very functional rifle. However, it will also generally take anywhere from 1-3 months to ship the parts, have a smith work on it and ship it back.
If you rebarrel it is-
$850- Tikka T3 Lite stainless
$800’ish- barrel, chambered, cut, thread
$595- ROKstock
$70- extra mag (AI)
$70- bolt and handle
Total= $2,385. If you add an AI or metal bottom metal, and a pic rail it’ll be $2,700 to $2,800. Still a very good rifle- as Tikka’s have always been. However, now you are looking at 4-8 months to get your rifle.
And- neither option did someone fully vet the rifle. To pay a gunsmith to degrease, thread lock, and torque (if they they even do it correctly); as well run 100 rounds through the two included mags, plus proof it with a 10 round sub 1.5 MOA group- you are looking at anywhere from $500 to $1,000 (real numbers that I have been quoted).
So to achieve the same package, you are sending guns and parts to a smith, waiting 4-8 months, and paying as much or more to do so.
But, let’s say between a Tikka setup identically and the MRC/S2H, it’s more about CRF versus PF on an individual preference level, as well as full warranty and factory support.
Do not get it confused- a properly setup T3 as above is the best currently available push-feed rifle on the market for general field shooting.
However, there are advantages to a properly done CRF. Number one is the elimination of “double feeds” due failure to eject from short stroking the bolt then pulling back and try to chamber another round. This happens a lot when people get stressed. A properly timed CRF captures the rim the moment it releases from the mag and will eject it if the bolt is pulled back. Even if due to the mags, the CRF doesn’t control the rim immediately, when the bolt is pushed forward the extractor snaps over the rim, and when the bolt is pulled back- it ejects. CRF is excellent for controlling the feeding, and ejecting of rounds.
Number two, is the open M70 style trigger. The closed Tikka/Sako trigger has very good reliability in very austere environments, especially with ice and snow. It is also a relatively safe trigger system when dropped. However, the old M70 trigger is also very reliable in ice, snow, sand, and debris; and it has a mechanical block on the firing pin with the 3-position safety making it virtually impossible to fire if dropped.
Number three is the integral Picatinny rail. The T3x has an integral rail, and it works, but Picatinny is the standard, is “better”, and integral rails are the way.
The conclusion is that while a correctly setup and optimized T3x is a very, very good rifle- and if you want a PF it’s the best option; you can’t walk into a store and buy it. Regardless, I would absolutely rather have this MRC/RS/UM/S2H rifle as it comes from the box- than any rifle built by any shop in the country, that I didn’t assemble and vet.