It wasn’t Talley - it’s apparently me. Scope won’t stay fixed - Update: fixed. Added to first post

[TxxAgg]

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[Bluto]

Tikka has integral dovetail.

Yeah that’s the only one I know of? I’d buy one in a pinch to get a job done (like this one) but otherwise, meh.

Of course, any rifle I have interest in apparently has mounting issues. So we’re back to it being me.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Who makes integral rails? Tikka? Just curious.

For job weld bedding, I’m assuming that means you don’t put a releasing agent on the action?

Release agent is the opposite of what I'm trying to do. I want to bond, vice bed, the components. It is basically permanent, so make sure you know that it's how you want before doing anything.

I think some cz or blazer options might have an integral dovetail. Otherwise, tikka to my knowledge.

 

[SDHNTR]

Unknown? If this rail and rings combo doesn’t get me through fall I’ll be using an already setup system and working on this later. (Assuming I can find 30-06 ammo. Haven’t looked in a while.)

Or I’ll go buy a Tikka lol

Don’t feel like the rail is your only option. You haven’t exhausted other possibilities yet. Talley steel two piece bases and screw lock detachable rings are a bomber system and retain the traditional look.

 

[sndmn11]

The answer isn't to keep buying more stuff. Figure out what is wrong in your turning screws procedures and fix it.

 

[Fatcamp]

Yeah that’s the only one I know of? I’d buy one in a pinch to get a job done (like this one) but otherwise, meh.

Of course, any rifle I have interest in apparently has mounting issues. So we’re back to it being me.

Rifle is a tool to deliver a bullet. After bouncing around Tikka seemed a solid option for that.

I like all rifles, but for killing I want stupid simple.

 

[Bluto]

Release agent is the opposite of what I'm trying to do. I want to bond, vice bed, the components. It is basically permanent, so make sure you know that it's how you want before doing anything.

I think some cz or blazer options might have an integral dovetail. Otherwise, tikka to my knowledge.

I figured, sounded like your purpose is permanent. I’d have a tough time convincing myself to do that if I couldn’t eventually remove it. But - I also see your point.

 

[Bluto]

Don’t feel like the rail is your only option. You haven’t exhausted other possibilities yet. Talley steel two piece bases and screw lock detachable rings are a bomber system and retain the traditional look.

It is for short term, purely for timing. I have my primary plan enroute, and a refundable option B that I have more faith in delivery of. (Leupold rail and Vortex Pro rings, in case optics planet fails me.) Long term, it won’t be a rail.

The answer isn't to keep buying more stuff. Figure out what is wrong in your turning screws procedures and fix it.

Agreed. I think this turned into much ado about nothing, once figuring out the Leupold part number is incorrect. Basically, the Talley’s didn’t work. Big picture is that I’m still only about to try my first (correct) replacement.

Rifle is a tool to deliver a bullet. After bouncing around Tikka seemed a solid option for that.

I like all rifles, but for killing I want stupid simple.

Agree. I thought a factory built Weatherby Mark V 308 was about as simple as it gets.

I don’t dislike Tikka for any reason really. I just had no idea that scope bases were a “thing.”

 

[BBob]

I figured, sounded like your purpose is permanent. I’d have a tough time convincing myself to do that if I couldn’t eventually remove it. But - I also see your point.

Most epoxy isn't totally permanent including JB, hit it with a heat gun and it'll pop off.

 

[sndmn11]

Agreed. I think this turned into much ado about nothing, once figuring out the Leupold part number is incorrect. Basically, the Talley’s didn’t work. Big picture is that I’m still only about to try my first (correct) replacement.

The Talley part number you posted before is correct. There's no reason you don't already have what you need to be successful.

 

[260madman]

A quick google search of the Loopy rail will tell you to send it back.

 

[Bluto]

The Talley part number you posted before is correct. There's no reason you don't already have what you need to be successful.

I thought so too. Stuck them back on, fingertip snug with the torx elbow, scope binds. Two rails and two sets of rings show Tuesday (allegedly) so we’ll see.

A quick google search of the Loopy rail will tell you to send it back.

Hm. Well, I ordered the leupold rail because the first comment was that the EGW rail sucks and I ordered it first.

 

[Bluto]

Okay, then I questioned myself, so I got the Talley’s back out. Snugged down, definitely binding the scope.

Sending them to Talley to take a look. Not asking for a refund, just curious what they find.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Are the scope base holes misaligned?

 

[BBob]

Snugged down, definitely binding the scope.

And how, why are is it binding? Are they twisted? Is one higher than the other? Are you sure you're getting that rear one with the larger flatter bottom radius on straight and parallel with the front? Why not take a moment and figure out why, you'll probably learn something along the way

 

[sndmn11]

Okay, then I questioned myself, so I got the Talley’s back out. Snugged down, definitely binding the scope.

Sending them to Talley to take a look. Not asking for a refund, just curious what they find.

Did they bind the first go round? What are you install step?

 

[Bluto]

Are the scope base holes misaligned?

Unknown.

And how, why are is it binding? Are they twisted? Is one higher than the other? Are you sure you're getting that rear one with the larger flatter bottom radius on straight and parallel with the front? Why not take a moment and figure out why, you'll probably learn something along the way

Rear base, forward left corner digs i. Tells me it’s slightly offset to the right. I can loosen it and it will line up. As far as parallel with the front, I’d guess no when it’s binding but otherwise, not sure. There’s kinda only one way to put them on, but all ears on what to figure out. (Other than not to buy another Weatherby )

 

[Bluto]

Did they bind the first go round? What are you install step?

Nope. Normally everything per Form’s sticky thread over on 24hr campfire forum. Once everything is fully cleaned and degreased, dry fit with one screw not tightened in each base to fit scope tube and see which way I want to mount the forward ring, goal is based as far apart as feasible with enough room to set eye relief. Loosely install base screws, check alignment. Crank it down.

Caps on, just snug enough to hold scope upright and set eye relief. Level action, Plumb line setup to align reticle, cross cross tighten cap screws. Enjoy life.

Edit - to be fair, refitting the Talley’s was kind of an afterthought today and I didn’t put much effort into it with two other setups on the way. I should maybe try that a little harder but I also did everything I know to do the first time and they didn’t work. So who knows.

 

[sndmn11]

. Once everything is fully cleaned and degreased, dry fit with one screw not tightened in each base to fit scope tube and see which way I want to mount the forward ring,

If they didn't bind before, they shouldn't bind now. Put both screws in each base and snug them each up, then tighten each. I'm not sure why you'd do it with one screw not tightened. You already know how you want the rings oriented. You can use the long side of the wrench to tighten those.

When putting the top halves on, turn the screws counter clockwise until you feel it drop in the threads, then turn a full turn clockwise. Do the other three the same in an X pattern (back left, front right, front left, back right, back left, etc), keep tightening them a full turn each until they are tight using the small end of the wrench.

Don't even bother doing whatever test for binding you did before, just screw the things on tightly and go shoot.

 

[SDHNTR]

Talley lightweights aren’t round. They are designed to conform to your scope tube with torque and give/stretch into a true state. They will absolutely bind with a loose prefit in most circumstances. Hell, they will usually snap onto a scope tube with no screws at all and not fall off with gravity. Doesn’t mean they won’t hold. They will when torqued down. But this is why others, myself included will lap them, which makes for a bind free fit with more surface contact and clamping force, and less stress. Lapping is easy, cheap and good insurance. I wouldn’t be intimidated by it. That said, it’s usually not totally necessary. Install those suckers and go if you want to, as sndmn11 indicated.

If your screw holes are off, a rail, nor any other set up isn’t going to fix your problem. You’ll just be imparting stress into the rail and bending it out of true. If the holes are way off, I’d be sending back to Weatherby. If they are just ever so slightly off, as is often the case with many production guns, don’t fret. Just get a set of two piece bases of your choice, epoxy bed them, and lap the rings. Easy. Test for true with alignment bars. Clean and torque and enjoy a lifetime of trouble free shooting.