Do You Need Specs/Info On Setting Up Your Tikka/Maven RS1.2/UM Tikka Rings Combo? Look Here.

[Nine Banger]

Interesting… that seems straightforward and way quicker than bubble levels…

Yeah.

In theory if the tolerances are good, you could mash those 2 parts between the receiver and the scope on any flat top receiver in any position, and they would come out level/plumb to each other which would be nice if you have to remove the scope at the range or in the field to make an adjustment.

 

[wind gypsy]

Scope Ring Cap Screws: I use 35" lbs for these with my Mavens and SWFA's with stronger tubes. If using a Leupold or Vortex with the weaker tubes use just under 30" lbs.

I'm pretty sure UM recommends 30 in/lb on the ring caps which is considerably more than the 20'ish in/lbs lots of other manufacturers recommend for 4 screw ring caps. Do you know if the hardware configuration on the UM rings requires more torque to get the same clamping force or does the recommendation just result in higher clamping force than is recommended by other manufacturers?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I'm pretty sure UM recommends 30 in/lb on the ring caps which is considerably more than the 20'ish in/lbs lots of other manufacturers recommend for 4 screw ring caps. Do you know if the hardware configuration on the UM rings requires more torque to get the same clamping force or does the recommendation just result in higher clamping force than is recommended by other manufacturers?

I think UM has changed the reccomended torque spec 3 times since they released them. Pretty sure their website and YouTube installation video still have two different recommend values but could be wrong.

I believe it’s a bit of both to answer your question. Their design at 30-35” lbs will likely have near or slightly more clamping force than other ring designs at lower torque values. I’ve never seen a drawing with values to say for certain.

 

[benconfused]

I've gotten several PMs and texts over the last couple months as folks seasons are winding down and new rifles are on the horizon for off season training and then hunting next year.

I have put together 7 personal Tikka/Maven RS1.2/UM Tikka rings combos and have helped put together several others. Here are the torque specs I've landed on for continued success on the guns and scopes not losing their zero. Think practical field use and very nasty roads/off road trails minimum 3-5 days per week, combined with shooting hundreds of rounds per week.


Action Screws: With factory bottom plastic I use 50-55" lbs. With High Desert Bottom Metal I use the provided thick shims and use 60-65" lbs. Sometimes these values can cause the magazine to not click in easily so I'll go down in 3" lb increments until the magazines clicks in as expected (this is rare).

Trigger Assembly Large Allen Screw: I do not use a torque wrench on this. I use a regular L shaped allen wrench and torque HARD until the wrench starts to bend. While your doing this go ahead and back the smaller allen spring tension screw out as far as it will go.

Scope Bases To Action: I use 30mm UM Low Rings and use the provided threaded pins. You may need to take a 1/16" drill bit and gently clean the receiver threads out to get them to thread in. I use 60" lbs for these but anywhere from 55-65" lbs works.

Scope Ring Cap Screws: I use 35" lbs for these with my Mavens and SWFA's with stronger tubes. If using a Leupold or Vortex with the weaker tubes use just under 30" lbs.


As I learned from @Formidilosus I use an oil based paint pen for all of my installs, and fully degrease every screw with brake clean, and let fully dry. I also take all the screws up to the torque value and then back them off a touch, and then re-torque again with multiple "clicks" of the torque wrench for each screw.

One more note... As someone screenshotted one of my older posts, I DID previously use aftermarket trigger springs in my Tikkas. I no longer use anything but the factory trigger spring, with it backed out as far as it will go.

Please post any questions here for visibility to others.

For the backing out the stock trigger spring, are you applying any nail polish to that one?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

For the backing out the stock trigger spring, are you applying any nail polish to that one?

That comes with thread locker from the factory and cannot back out any further as it gets blocked by the larger main trigger assembly screw.

 

[benconfused]

That comes with thread locker from the factory and cannot back out any further as it gets blocked by the larger main trigger assembly screw.

I def backed it some, but not up against hitting the main screw. Could feel a lightening of the trigger pull, function and safety check are good as well.

Was just wondering if it's best to reapply that stuff or if the existing factory blue will keep it there.

 

[Bluumoon]

I’ve yet to chase down the loss of zero gremlin in one of my setups (haven’t had time to reload ammo). Rifle/scope/rings and assembly near identical to what has been listed. Primary potential/suspected issue is the front ring is right up against the turret housing.

@mxgsfmdpx @Formidilosus is this a known issue?

 

[benconfused]

Little dining room work and Instructions followed. Got her ready to sight in.

 

[JohnB]

I've recently come across this tool: https://arisakadefense.com/optic-leveler-combo/

Used it to mount a SWFA 3-9 to my Tikka 223. I still used a bubble level to level the action first, but then used this tool rather than trying to use a second bubble level. SOOO much quicker. And my last step is to hang a plumb bob (3/8 inch rope 80 yards away) to use to level the whole system against when mounting a scope level.

Dude! That's an awesome little tool and way better than crummy bubble levels!

 

[TxAg]

Will low rings work with a Sendero profile barrel?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I’ve yet to chase down the loss of zero gremlin in one of my setups (haven’t had time to reload ammo). Rifle/scope/rings and assembly near identical to what has been listed. Primary potential/suspected issue is the front ring is right up against the turret housing.

@mxgsfmdpx @Formidilosus is this a known issue?

I’ve had some of mine mounted with the ring nearly touching the turret housing without issue. Not ideal I would say though. I’ve heard of some paint pens being used causing issues, as in not curing and being wet still.

I’ve also seen issues with high torque values and factory bottom plastic if that’s being used. Sometimes hairline cracks can form without the user being aware, these are quite rare though.