Rifle Proofing Issues

Dmr400

FNG
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
20
The scope evals have been a really eye opening experience for me, and I happen to have a scope in my possession that I haven't seen drop tested yet (Revic Accura. With that in mind I set about setting up a proofing rifle both for testing my own equipment and being able to give back a little. After reading as much of the info already posted as possible, I purchased a SWFA 10x Gen 2 (MOA Quad), Nightforce rings, a Nightforce pic rail and got to work.

The rifle is a Remington 700 action that has had the receiver face, bolt lug recesses, and bolt lugs trued. It wears a Criterion Heavy Sporter 24” Remage Barrel in 223 Remington that has been a little picky for bullet selection, but it will shoot 60 grain vmax bullets reasonably well. The rifle is in an MC3 Tradition sporter style stock (Comes with pillars), and has had the recoil lug spot bedded. Barrel channel has been opened up to fit the proverbial cat. Triggertech special set to 1.75#s. More on the rifle later. Barrel has had at least 600 rounds through it. I also had 300 Starline 5.56 cases that needed fireformed, so I loaded them up over a fairly mild charge of varget. Basically equivalent to mid power factory ammo.

I followed form's scope mounting process to a T as best as I understand it. Everything was thoroughly degreased including all contact surfaces between the action, rail, rings, and scope. I have done a few scope/rail mounting sessions since I did this one and can’t remember if I bonded the rail on this rifle with Loctite 380, but I torqued the rail down with I think 20 in/lbs. Rings were torqued to the rail at 60 in/lbs, ring cap screws at 22 in/lbs. Actions screws were also degreased and torqued to 60 in/lbs. Every screw had nail polish applied to the threads and then to the head to seal it, and then I put witness marks on everything including the action screws, recoil lug to action, barrel nut to barrel, muzzle thread cap, the scope where it met the rings, the rings where they met the rail, and there is an outline around the rail on the action. Basically anything I thought could ever move has some sort of witness mark.

The scope was already pretty close to zeroed, so I clicked a minute up to keep from obliterating my aiming point and fired the 30 round group seen below. 5 rounds at a time as that’s what the internal box magazine holds and let the rifle cool a little while I worked on some other rifles, more for mirage than anything. I used a front rest I made a few years ago with a protector leather front rest bag secured to a flat plate welded on a car jack secured to a 12x12x2 paving stone. Rear rest was a protector leather bunny ear bag. Group was right around 1.5”, but in all honesty some of the shots around the edges were not my best work. Not excusing anything or calling “Flyers”, but this group is probably a better indicator of my ability to shoot 30 rounds with a lower magnification scope than I’m used to than a great test of the equipment. I used 3” target stickers, probably would have been better off with 1 ½”.


30 Round Group.jpg


After the 30 round group I dialed the scope down one minute and ¼ minute right, and fired 2 more 5 round groups at a fresh dot to confirm zero (below).


1st Zero Target 10 rnds.jpg


Everything looked good so I went to the drop test. The place I was shooting doesn’t have any “soft” ground (it’s an old cinder pit), so I did the test in the softest part of it I could find. I put down two layers of harbor freight anti fatigue floor mat (So total just under an inch of foam probably) seen here: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

Then I laid a canvas shooting mat over that. 18” drops no problem, single drops from 36” Everything was going great until I got to the 3x 36” drop on the left side of the scope. Impacted 4” to the left and an inch high of the aiming point (Marked #7 below), well outside the cone of fire. I shifted to another target and fired again to confirm, impact was 3.5” left of the aiming point (I drew this impact on the original dot, labeled #8). I decided to move on and see what happened, made no adjustment to the scope, dropped 3x from 36” on the top of the scope and fired shot #9. Moved back towards center but slightly high and left of the previous cone. Dropped the scope 3x from 36” on the right side of the scope, shot impacted in basically the same place again (#10).


1st Drop Test.jpg


I checked all the witness marks and couldn’t detect anything that shifted or any other damage. Scratched my head a little, had a bite to eat, and put up a couple more target spots. Fired one round that impacted in the same place as the previous two (labeled "Zero" below), so I adjusted the scope ½ minute down and ½ minute right and fired the next 9 (See below).


2nd Zero Target.jpg


Called this re-zero good, and dropped the rifle 3x from 36” on the left side. Fired one round (Furthest left in the group below but slightly less than the last time). Fired 4 more to confirm, definitely outside the cone of fire. No shifts on any of the witness marks, no damage to anything I could see.

3x left side 2nd drop test.jpg

So I’m left wondering what’s going on and thought I would ask the group for opinions. I can think of 3 things it might be:

  • This is the first SWFA fixed power I’ve heard of that didn’t pass a drop test (I think this is probably unlikely);
  • Something shifted in the rifle that I can’t detect from a visual inspection. I think I will tear everything apart watching as I go for something that shifted. I can’t remember two things that might be important, the first being if I bonded the rail to the action on this build. The second thing I can’t remember is the torque value I used on this barrel nut when I mounted it a few years ago. I used to follow the manufacturers suggestion of around 35 ft/lbs until I had one shoot loose and started cranking them down to 60-65 ft/lbs. I seem to remember Form suggesting upwards of 80-100 ft/lbs on one of the shoot to hunt podcasts.
  • Perhaps with the hard ground there isn't enough padding to be fair to the system? Basically 1" of medium-hardish foam with a double layered canvas shooting mat over it.
Appreciate any input or ideas. Thanks!
 
The scope evals have been a really eye opening experience for me, and I happen to have a scope in my possession that I haven't seen drop tested yet (Revic Accura. With that in mind I set about setting up a proofing rifle both for testing my own equipment and being able to give back a little. After reading as much of the info already posted as possible, I purchased a SWFA 10x Gen 2 (MOA Quad), Nightforce rings, a Nightforce pic rail and got to work.

The rifle is a Remington 700 action that has had the receiver face, bolt lug recesses, and bolt lugs trued. It wears a Criterion Heavy Sporter 24” Remage Barrel in 223 Remington that has been a little picky for bullet selection, but it will shoot 60 grain vmax bullets reasonably well. The rifle is in an MC3 Tradition sporter style stock (Comes with pillars), and has had the recoil lug spot bedded. Barrel channel has been opened up to fit the proverbial cat. More on the rifle later. Barrel has had at least 600 rounds through it. I also had 300 Starline 5.56 cases that needed fireformed, so I loaded them up over a fairly mild charge of varget. Basically equivalent to mid power factory ammo.

I followed form's scope mounting process to a T as best as I understand it. Everything was thoroughly degreased including all contact surfaces between the action, rail, rings, and scope. I have done a few scope/rail mounting sessions since I did this one and can’t remember if I bonded the rail on this rifle with Loctite 380, but I torqued the rail down with I think 20 in/lbs. Rings were torqued to the rail at 60 in/lbs, ring cap screws at 22 in/lbs. Actions screws were also degreased and torqued to 60 in/lbs. Every screw had nail polish applied to the threads and then to the head to seal it, and then I put witness marks on everything including the action screws, recoil lug to action, barrel nut to barrel, muzzle thread cap, the scope where it met the rings, the rings where they met the rail, and there is an outline around the rail on the action. Basically anything I thought could ever move has some sort of witness mark.

The scope was already pretty close to zeroed, so I clicked a minute up to keep from obliterating my aiming point and fired the 30 round group seen below. 5 rounds at a time as that’s what the internal box magazine holds and let the rifle cool a little while I worked on some other rifles, more for mirage than anything. I used a front rest I made a few years ago with a protector leather front rest bag secured to a flat plate welded on a car jack secured to a 12x12x2 paving stone. Rear rest was a protector leather bunny ear bag. Group was right around 1.5”, but in all honesty some of the shots around the edges were not my best work. Not excusing anything or calling “Flyers”, but this group is probably a better indicator of my ability to shoot 30 rounds with a lower magnification scope than I’m used to than a great test of the equipment. I used 3” target stickers, probably would have been better off with 1 ½”.


View attachment 865248


After the 30 round group I dialed the scope down one minute and ¼ minute right, and fired 2 more 5 round groups at a fresh dot to confirm zero (below).


View attachment 865249


Everything looked good so I went to the drop test. The place I was shooting doesn’t have any “soft” ground (it’s an old cinder pit), so I did the test in the softest part of it I could find. I put down two layers of harbor freight anti fatigue floor mat (So total just under an inch of foam probably) seen here: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

Then I laid a canvas shooting mat over that. 18” drops no problem, single drops from 36” Everything was going great until I got to the 3x 36” drop on the left side of the scope. Impacted 4” to the left and an inch high of the aiming point (Marked #7 below), well outside the cone of fire. I shifted to another target and fired again to confirm, impact was 3.5” left of the aiming point (I drew this impact on the original dot, labeled #8). I decided to move on and see what happened, made no adjustment to the scope, dropped 3x from 36” on the top of the scope and fired shot #9. Moved back towards center but slightly high and left of the previous cone. Dropped the scope 3x from 36” on the right side of the scope, shot impacted in basically the same place again (#10).


View attachment 865250


I checked all the witness marks and couldn’t detect anything that shifted or any other damage. Scratched my head a little, had a bite to eat, and put up a couple more target spots. Fired one round that impacted in the same place as the previous two (labeled "Zero" below), so I adjusted the scope ½ minute down and ½ minute right and fired the next 9 (See below).


View attachment 865251


Called this re-zero good, and dropped the rifle 3x from 36” on the left side. Fired one round (Furthest left in the group below but slightly less than the last time). Fired 4 more to confirm, definitely outside the cone of fire. No shifts on any of the witness marks, no damage to anything I could see.

View attachment 865252

So I’m left wondering what’s going on and thought I would ask the group for opinions. I can think of 3 things it might be:

  • This is the first SWFA fixed power I’ve heard of that didn’t pass a drop test (I think this is probably unlikely);
  • Something shifted in the rifle that I can’t detect from a visual inspection. I think I will tear everything apart watching as I go for something that shifted. I can’t remember two things that might be important, the first being if I bonded the rail to the action on this build. The second thing I can’t remember is the torque value I used on this barrel nut when I mounted it a few years ago. I used to follow the manufacturers suggestion of around 35 ft/lbs until I had one shoot loose and started cranking them down to 60-65 ft/lbs. I seem to remember Form suggesting upwards of 80-100 ft/lbs on one of the shoot to hunt podcasts.
  • Perhaps with the hard ground there isn't enough padding to be fair to the system? Basically 1" of medium-hardish foam with a double layered canvas shooting mat over it.
Appreciate any input or ideas. Thanks!


You have some pretty significant sources of potential error.

1). Action to stock- there is a reason the drop eval rifles are permanently bonded to a metal chassis. Without that, you’re “hoping”.

2). Rail to action- this is as big as anything else. Again, there is a reason the drop eval rifles have permanently bonded rails, and THEN torqued down to fastener limit (much higher than 20in-lbs). Also, as soon as the Raven action is done, the evals will swap to using that action with its integrated pic rail.

3). The surface you are dropping on- it’s too hard. I have been playing with using a 50lb bag of bird seed and dropping them on top of that. It seems to work as a substrate. Just fluff the bag back up after every drop.
 
DMR400 I experienced similar issue on my first drop set up. I paid to have the rifle professionally bedded and that seems to have made a big difference in the shifts I received. My spot bedding job was weak and not well done. I did locktite the rail to the action.

My last drop test on the Sightmark posted here demonstrated the bedding job made a difference.
 
You have some pretty significant sources of potential error.

1). Action to stock- there is a reason the drop eval rifles are permanently bonded to a metal chassis. Without that, you’re “hoping”.

2). Rail to action- this is as big as anything else. Again, there is a reason the drop eval rifles have permanently bonded rails, and THEN torqued down to fastener limit (much higher than 20in-lbs). Also, as soon as the Raven action is done, the evals will swap to using that action with its integrated pic rail.

3). The surface you are dropping on- it’s too hard. I have been playing with using a 50lb bag of bird seed and dropping them on top of that. It seems to work as a substrate. Just fluff the bag back up after every drop.
Thanks @Formidilosus . I dont have any hopes of duplicating the thought, effort, and expense that you have put into this, but I sure appreciate the info you have learned the hard way and made public.
I'm going to take a closer look at the rail to see if I did bond it or not, I think I did but just can't remember for sure.

Action to stock, is there anything short of permanent bonding I can do to bomb proof the system better? I'm guessing you don't permanently bond all your rifles? I do spot bed all the lugs. I make my living with my rifles year round and have fought wandering zeros and never understood it until I read the info you have put out.
Edit: I checked and I did bond the rail.

The bird seed idea is great, something all of us can duplicate easy enough. I'll give it a shot. I'm not giving up on this anytime soon!
 
notes to self:

While hunting don’t drop rifle on anything harder than bird seed.

Dropping rifle while hunting only works with “permanently bonded” stocks to receivers.
 
notes to self:

While hunting don’t drop rifle on anything harder than bird seed.

Dropping rifle while hunting only works with “permanently bonded” stocks to receivers.
Forms efforts saved me a lot of time. I chased my tail on a few set ups trying to figure why it lost zero or wouldn’t group under 5”.

In the same breath he cost me time as now I am dropping and testing lots of set ups. I’ll have one bonded to a chassis soon. Just trying to find the right set up at the right price.
 
Thanks @Formidilosus . I dont have any hopes of duplicating the thought, effort, and expense that you have put into this, but I sure appreciate the info you have learned the hard way and made public.
I'm going to take a closer look at the rail to see if I did bond it or not, I think I did but just can't remember for sure.

Action to stock, is there anything short of permanent bonding I can do to bomb proof the system better? I'm guessing you don't permanently bond all your rifles? I do spot bed all the lugs. I make my living with my rifles year round and have fought wandering zeros and never understood it until I read the info you have put out.
Edit: I checked and I did bond the rail.

The bird seed idea is great, something all of us can duplicate easy enough. I'll give it a shot. I'm not giving up on this anytime soon!


Fully bed the action, then test it. You may need to bed the bottom metal as well.
 
Thanks everyone. I did an abbreviated test again today while I was waiting on another rifle to cool on a much softer surface, saw the same trend although it only shifted about half as much. I'll take the advice above (I hadn't seen that yet) and fully bed the action and bottom metal and try again.
 
Finally got back to this, I decided I wanted to learn how to cerakote my own stuff and that this rifle would be a good first try after a couple of small practice projects, so I delayed things a bit. Got the rifle sprayed and cured last weekend. I threw it in the barrel vise and set a torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs and clicked over on the barrel nut (Didn't move), fully bedded the action and bottom metal and torqued the action screws to 65 in/lbs. I bonded the rail to the action with loctite 380 and nail polished and torqued the rail screws to 22-23 in/lbs, and re-installed the scope the same as in the first post. Target spots are 1.5" as ordered but technically my amazon ordered chinese spots are 4cm, so they actually measure 1 9/16". Fired the first fouling round on a clean barrel, labeled "BS" on the target below.
20250430_105946.jpg
Measured with the reticle, made the appropriate adjustment (I seem to recall it was 5MOA down and 5.5MOA left, holding on the bottom left target spot) and fired the next 10 shots below (shot labeled 2 was the second round out of a clean bore, after that a group started forming so that's what I paid attention to.)
20250430_105950.jpg

Adjusted 1/4 MOA right, and started dropping. The surface started as soft packed dirt, with 2 layers of Harbor Freight anti-fatigue foam with a shooting mat on top. I didn't see the point in repeating the 18" drops as the setup passed that before being bedded, so all drops were from 36". Shots labeled on the target below are as follows:
1. After 1x Drop on left side.
2. After 1x drop on top of scope.
3. After 1x drop on right side.
4. After 3x drops on left side. I called this as a flier before I even saw the impact, just a poor shot on my part.
5. Reshot (back in the cone)
6. After 3x drops on top of scope.
7. After 3x drops on right side.

From the very first drop there seemed to be a 1/2-3/4 MOA shift to the left, but the cone stayed the same size. I'm guessing something in the system just needed to settle after the tear down, but I don't know what that would be.

After the first 7 shots which I would call a pass, I started taking padding out and doing 3 drops to ensure that I hadn't found too soft a spot and made things too easy. My mindset was that this was a test of the rifle system and if I went to far and something broke, I would stop before that when I test my other optics. So I removed one of the layers of HF foam, and repeated the 3x drops. Shots are:
8. After 3x drops on left
9. After 3x drops on top
10. After 3x drops on right.

20250430_110009.jpg

And this is where I went too far, I removed the second layer of HF mat so I was just dropping on the soft packed dirt. Dropped 3x on the left and got this:

20250430_105738.jpg

Witness marks on the tube showed the scope didn't rotate, so the reticle definitely shifted/canted inside the scope. In the interest of science I shot the rifle as is, level rifle as best I could so the reticle remained canted:

20250430_110013.jpg
That group measures about 3/8" center to center, and isn't too far off the cone the rest of the drop test! This is a damn impressive scope for $350 dollars! Had I been packed in somewhere hunting I would have still been able to hunt (at least at ranges I didn't need to dial) after a quick rezero, that I didn't attempt today. I did try dropping the scope several more times to see if I could knock it back to home, but it stayed canted.

I called SWFA later to ask a question about another scope before ordering another one of these beasts, and told the gentlemen this story after he took care of my questions. I made it plain I had no intentions of warrantying this scope as this was all intentionally done and I was happy to spend the $350 to find out if the rifle side of the system would hold up for at least one full test. After I explained everything I had done he asked me to warranty the scope as he wanted to look at it, which in my book is above and beyond customer service. I will definitely be ordering another one or two of their scopes.

I'll be mounting up some of my other scopes in the coming weeks and testing them out, I'm normally very careful but I took a tumble in the rocks and knocked a setup about 3 MOA out of zero last week and had a hunting dog knock the same rifle over on monday and knocked it out about 7 MOA, so just goes to show if you use your rifles everyday to make your living, you better know about this stuff and get good equipment. Thanks again to Form and all the rest of the folks contributing to this great process.
 
I bought another SWFA 10x Gen2 that arrived a couple days ago so I mounted it up in my test rifle and gave it a drop test. No suprises, passed no problem. Target below, 1st round labeled BS for bore sight. Measured with the reticle, made the appropriate adjustments and fired a 10 shot group to confirm zero. It probably could have used 1 click up but every shot hit the target sticker so I left it alone. I skipped the 18" drops again and went right to 36".
Shot#:
1. 1x 36" Left side
2. 1x 36" Top
3. 1x 36" Right side
4. 3x 36" Left side
5. 3x 36" Top
6. 3x 36" Right side
1000008812.jpg

I didn't test the click adjustment value or return to zero, as the scope adjusted correctly while zeroing and I was more interested in the performance of the test rifle setup after drops than the performance of the scope.

I sent in my original 10xGen2 where the reticle canted, and they are sending me back a 20x at my request, as I like a little more magnification for load development. Tracking says it should be here this weekend so I will mount it up and repeat this test and see how it goes. If the test rifle setup can get satisfactory results drop testing 3 different SWFA scopes I will be pretty confident in results going forward with my other scopes. I already gave another one of my older out of production scopes an abbreviated test on the same drop surface, and it failed after the first 36" drop. Now that the test rifle setup has passed another SWFA with no changes after that scope failed, safe to say I won't be remounting that one on anything.
 
So at this point I have repeated these tests with both a SWFA gen II 20x (in SWFA rings) and a Maven Rs 1.2 (in NF rings). Both passed the above drop test with basically identical results as the scopes above, so I am pretty confident in the rifle setup. When I test another scope I'll link back to this thread so folks can evaluate the platform for themselves, if they are interested. Here is the target picture for the Maven RS 1.2. The one shot outside the group happened after the 3x36" drops on the right side, not sure what happened there but I dropped the rifle 3 more times on that side and the next shot fell inside the normal cone of fire with no shift. Mea culpa I guess.

1000009020.jpg
I don't have a picture of the SWFA gen II 20x test, but it did shift about 1 MOA left after the first 18" drop, but every shot for the rest of the test stayed in that location and within the cone of fire for the rifle. On this one I tried the SWFA rings just to satisfy my own curiosity and to have a lower cost ring to keep on what will be a load development/known good scope to check misbehaving rifles and didnt want to tie up a set of the $$$ NF rings. I was satisfied and didn't feel the need to remount and retest in NF rings, but if I planned on using this scope in the field of course it would have made sense to do that.

Since I'm not trying to be on the same level as @Formidilosus these results are satisfactory to me even if they aren't perfect. They give give me a high enough level of confidence in evaluating my own setups going forward, both new scopes on this rifle and these proofed scopes on new rifles. Just wanted to share my experiences for anyone who wants to use them as a data point for their own purchase decisions.
 
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