Stirring the "oil vs loctite" pot

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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Oct 22, 2014
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10,564
I've been thinking about this, since there's a bunch of threads on this topic.

The idea of oil on scope ring screws is generally seen as heresy as that will surely lead to them loosening. On the other hand, look what we all do with AR barrel nuts? A generous glob of Aeroshell 33 all over the threads, torque to 50 ftlbs (or whatever for your install) and blaze away with never another care in the world.

How is that different? For the record, I either keep my scope ring screws dry or use a little LT blue, but I was just wondering how this is different from a barrel nut.

-Stooxie


Because at 720 in-lbs (60 ft-lbs) you are achieving preload on the threads. At 18-25 in-lbs, you are not.
 
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Why? Because properly installed hardware doesn't work? I've got shit that hasn't been checked in a thousand rounds plus and it's

Why? Because properly installed hardware doesn't work? I've got shit that hasn't been checked in a thousand rounds plus and it's GTG.
Always good practice to check components… stock to action, scope base, scope caps, bi pod, etc… sure. Proper or not things happen. Even more so on a magnum.
 

Choupique

WKR
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Oct 2, 2022
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checking it occasionally.

Don't take this as gospel-

On rotating machinery that I've worked on, checking torque on loctite-applied hardware is a no-no. If you accidently apply enough excess torque to break the bond, it doesn't rebond. It has to be removed, cleaned, new juice, and re installed.

Those are checked via marking the bolt head after final torque and visually checking for rotation. That's what I do with my ring caps. Simple scribe mark.

If you're ULTRA confident in your ring mounting prowess, you can use 262 (red) on the screws and the green fitting compound at the ring to rail and rail to rifle interfaces. That ain't coming off without some effort and you might have to drill the screw heads to get it off.
 
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Did you read my original statement. I run mine dry.i dont use loc tite on scopes. My failures in past were not from re checking they simply failed. I started running dry scope rings many years ago on all my NF scopes and there rings based off conversations with NF and there recommendations to just go dry and check every now and then especially on magnums. Its more about stretching the threads on small screws anyway.
 
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Those photos look more like a lack of proper care issue to me.

It wouldn't hurt to wipe down the gun with an oily rag once in the while, or spray on some Rem-oil, and wipe off the excess. Rust on top of the cap head screws suggest otherwise.

Just bringing the gun in from a cold hunt, will make it sweat like a cold beer.
 
OP
The Harbor Master

The Harbor Master

Lil-Rokslider
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Those photos look more like a lack of proper care issue to me.

It wouldn't hurt to wipe down the gun with an oily rag once in the while, or spray on some Rem-oil, and wipe off the excess. Rust on top of the cap head screws suggest otherwise.

Just bringing the gun in from a cold hunt, will make it sweat like a cold beer.

I'm pretty anal about keeping everything rust free and clean (as you can tell by this post, just for a little rust on cap screws lol). I didn't and wouldn't introduce oil to the scope rings, screws or mounts through, so it would've happened regardless. That said, I did learn long ago to not bring an ice cold rifle inside, back and forth. On winter hunts the rifle stayed out in the truck for the night and never was brought into the camper or wall tent.
 
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