It wasn’t Talley - it’s apparently me. Scope won’t stay fixed - Update: fixed. Added to first post

[BjornF16]

So - Sako/Tikka or…? My curiosity is piqued.

Blaser, Sauer, Merkel…

 

[Formidilosus]

So - Sako/Tikka or…? My curiosity is piqued.

Sako generally- the S20 is the best rifle from a functional standpoint that they make, Tikka, Blaser, Sauer, Merkel, etc. They actually test their rifles- real testing. No US manufacture does that.

 

[SDHNTR]

Form, what are your thoughts on the Sako Model 85 ejection issues? I so wanted to love a Bavarian full stock!

 

[Formidilosus]

Form, what are your thoughts on the Sako Model 85 ejection issues? I so wanted to love a Bavarian full stock!

It’s a problem if your particular one has it. If not, not a big deal. I do expect that the future lines will based on the S20 as functionally it’s better.

 

[Balderdash]

Why? We still have the majority being ok with scopes that don’t hold zero, rifles that don’t feed, fire, extract, or eject correctly; triggers that don’t work in foul weather and aren’t drop safe, etc, etc. Americans love cheap junk.

Integral rails/scope mounting isn’t unusual where people expect their rifles to work correctly.

I use rails for utilitarian reasons. I don't really care for the way they look, but they allow for optimum scope and ring placement, and they are very rugged. The rigs on which I use them generally have composite stocks and, IMO, aren't really much to look at anyway. Thier beauty resides in how well they shoot and, by extension, in how consistently they make it easier for me to hit farther off targets. I'd take a solid top receiver with integral rail anytime. It's been proven that it's just a better design.

A note about weight: It's been awhile since I weighed an aluminum rail and a set of aluminum rings, so I don't have an exact number to state, but they aren't very heavy; certainly they're in the ball park of the steel DD and STD mounts and rings most of us used for years on blued/walnut rigs.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

It’s a problem if your particular one has it. If not, not a big deal. I do expect that the future lines will based on the S20 as functionally it’s better.

Isn’t that the case with anything, it’s only a problem if it has one lol.

 

[Formidilosus]

Isn’t that the case with anything, it’s only a problem if it has one lol.

Perzactly.

Some Sako’s have the ejection problem, some don’t. There doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason for it.

 

[SDHNTR]

Perzactly.

Some Sako’s have the ejection problem, some don’t. There doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason for it.

That’s the problem. Sakos ain’t cheap to take that kind of risk. That damn fixed ejector in the 6:00 position sure seems like an obvious and massive engineering oversight in my quasi-uninformed opinion. It makes little sense to me. Why wasn’t that ejector moved over a few degrees to kick brass out more than up? I’d love to hear their reasoning for that ejection design. I’ve wanted one for many years, every thing else about them is wonderful, but I just can’t bring myself to buy one. Especially on principle. How did Sako let that thing get past design and into production?

 

[Formidilosus]

That’s the problem. Sakos ain’t cheap to take that kind of risk. That damn fixed ejector in the 6:00 position sure seems like an obvious and massive engineering oversight in my quasi-uninformed opinion. It makes little sense to me. Why wasn’t that ejector moved over a few degrees to kick brass out more than up? I’d love to hear their reasoning for that ejection design. I’ve wanted one for many years, every thing else about them is wonderful, but I just can’t bring myself to buy one. Especially on principle. How did Sako let that thing get past design and into production?

You got me. What is interesting is how this is so unusual for them, yet so expected from domestic companies…

 

[Bluto]

Similar, though not identical. Basically any action that uses a R700 compatible trigger has major flaws with no other attributes addressed. Most have major feed and function issues. Abolt and X bolt triggers are sensitive to ice/sludge. Savages are garbage across the board in reliability and durability. Howa’s are ok, tigger and action starts squawking with sand/dust/snow.

To be short, if you want a rifle action, trigger, and stock that was actually tested by the manufacturer and has a high probability of working correctly buy a European or Scandinavian made one. Next best would be a M70 gone over by a legit M70 smith.

Perzactly.

Some Sako’s have the ejection problem, some don’t. There doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason for it.

Waaaait a minute. $3300 for a European rifle that’s not American junk but it may or may eject? I guess it’s better than $12,000 for a Mauser.

No wonder everybody just buys a Tikka.

Edit - this also put me in a bad mood because I’ve now learned the correct pronunciation of Sako and Tikka and I don’t like it.

 

[fwafwow]

Waaaait a minute. $3300 for a European rifle that’s not American junk but it may or may eject? I guess it’s better than $12,000 for a Mauser.

No wonder everybody just buys a Tikka.

Edit - this also put me in a bad mood because I’ve now learned the correct pronunciation of Sako and Tikka and I don’t like it.

So weird. Last night I was perusing the Euro brands Form mentioned and had eliminated a few that seemed beyond my current planned budget, so I was looking at the Sako S20. My research will continue (which are straight pull vs not, are any others under $4k, etc.).

Anyway, I got side tracked and wondered how Tikka is pronounced. Is it Tee-kuh (how I’ve imagined it)? Or tick-uh? And now that I’ve read your post, I realize I’ve always imaged Sako is pronounced like the Seiko watch brand (say-ko). Am I wrong?

 

[Formidilosus]

I’ve always imaged Sako is pronounced like the Seiko watch brand (say-ko). Am I wrong?

“Sock- Oh”

 

[Bluto]

So weird. Last night I was perusing the Euro brands Form mentioned and had eliminated a few that seemed beyond my current planned budget, so I was looking at the Sako S20. My research will continue (which are straight pull vs not, are any others under $4k, etc.).

Anyway, I got side tracked and wondered how Tikka is pronounced. Is it Tee-kuh (how I’ve imagined it)? Or tick-uh? And now that I’ve read your post, I realize I’ve always imaged Sako is pronounced like the Seiko watch brand (say-ko). Am I wrong?

Lol, same path for me.

Yup, Sock-oh and Tick-uh.

So, no watches and no Teak-ah. My whole life is a lie.

 

[fwafwow]

I had discriminated against and avoided jumping on the Tikka bandwagon - maybe because of my believed/incorrect pronunciation. Maybe my whole world is also a lie and needs to change. Move from Cooper + Swaro to Tikka or Sako + SWFA (if ever found)? I’d think of the money I could save, except I rarely ever sell anything.

 

[BjornF16]

Is it wrong to put a SWFA on a Blah-zer?

 

[Fatcamp]

Hey OP! Did your rifle shoot straight? Now that the mount is figured out I'm curious.

 

[260madman]

Is it wrong to put a SWFA on a Blah-zer?

Of course it is. Zeiss V8 or Schitt and Bendover are the only accepted optics. If you’re going to go big…

SWFA is only good for Salvage Axis.

 

[Bluto]

Hey OP! Did your rifle shoot straight? Now that the mount is figured out I'm curious.

If I told you, you wouldn’t believe me.

I went to the indoor range, good to go. Then made the drive (too damn long) to the closest outdoor range (worth the drive, it’s awesome) and….it shot about 10” groups at 100 yards. That was with three different factory loads in 3 different grain accubonds and partitions. FML.

Talked to a buddy, asked me if I’d ever heard of reticle float. I cranked everything hi and right and then to dead optical center, went back again today.

Money. Did it work or did letting the barrel cool to no kidding ambient temperature? Dunno, but something did. I’m dialed now, finally. The barrel on this lightweight rifle is really thin, and a little heat sensitive. 2-3 rounds it’s beautiful. Then she gets an attitude problem. I guess I’d better be on.

Or buy a Sock-Oh.

 

[SDHNTR]

If I told you, you wouldn’t believe me.

I went to the indoor range, good to go. Then made the drive (too damn long) to the closest outdoor range (worth the drive, it’s awesome) and….it shot about 10” groups at 100 yards. That was with three different factory loads in 3 different grain accubonds and partitions. FML.

Talked to a buddy, asked me if I’d ever heard of reticle float. I cranked everything hi and right and then to dead optical center, went back again today.

Money. Did it work or did letting the barrel cool to no kidding ambient temperature? Dunno, but something did. I’m dialed now, finally. The barrel on this lightweight rifle is really thin, and a little heat sensitive. 2-3 rounds it’s beautiful. Then she gets an attitude problem. I guess I’d better be on.

Or buy a Sock-Oh.

Heat and parallax error. I try to avoid group shooting in the heat and do a head Bob test prior to each group. Parallax can change with atmospheric conditions.

 

[Formidilosus]

Money. Did it work or did letting the barrel cool to no kidding ambient temperature? Dunno, but something did. I’m dialed now, finally. The barrel on this lightweight rifle is really thin, and a little heat sensitive. 2-3 rounds it’s beautiful. Then she gets an attitude problem. I guess I’d better be on.

If that’s the case, it isn’t because the barrel is thin it’s because it isn’t properly stress relieved, bad fitment, and/or bad bedding. Temperamental guns, tend to become temperamental at the exact wrong moment.