HighUintas
WKR
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2020
- Messages
- 2,731
I would really be interested in seeing how a Blaser R8 did in this kind of test.
See post #62
I would really be interested in seeing how a Blaser R8 did in this kind of test.
The soto torch I posted solved my frozen issue pretty fast. It really is going to depend on what's frozen and where. At -20* no amount of snuggling with your rifle is going to make a difference in short order. If it's 31* you might be able to work through it.Without having to sell the faulty rifles and replace them with better alternatives, is there anything that can be done?
Rifle cover with a hot hand placed near bolt and trigger?
Thanks. More curious about preventing or reducing the likelihood rather than having to do a field fix.The soto torch I posted solved my frozen issue pretty fast. It really is going to depend on what's frozen and where. At -20* no amount of snuggling with your rifle is going to make a difference in short order. If it's 31* you might be able to work through it.
One thing I do is to dry fire my rifles in the field. You won't get 100% feedback....perhaps a slowed pin drop, etc that's hard to recognize for most....but it will let you stay confident and/or show you that you need to get your rig warmed up or cleared out.
Without having to sell the faulty rifles and replace them with better alternatives, is there anything that can be done?
Rifle cover with a hot hand placed near bolt and trigger?
Main concern I would have is the slam fires with R700 triggersThe soto torch I posted solved my frozen issue pretty fast. It really is going to depend on what's frozen and where. At -20* no amount of snuggling with your rifle is going to make a difference in short order. If it's 31* you might be able to work through it.
One thing I do is to dry fire my rifles in the field. You won't get 100% feedback....perhaps a slowed pin drop, etc that's hard to recognize for most....but it will let you stay confident and/or show you that you need to get your rig warmed up or cleared out.
In relation to this, I noticed that seekins' havak HIT line has dust covers on them. Seems like a good idea for field used bolt actions to keep unwanted shit out of the action. Anyone used one?
The issues with 700 triggers go back 5 decades, are well documented in court cases, and it’s not about freezing up. It’s about them not being drop safe and going off when they aren’t supposed to. One of my good friends almost killed his father when they were hunting together with a 700. I really don’t understand why this design remains so popular. My friend and his dad are both still Rem 700 devotees.As a father of 2 boys that hunt with 700s this is very concerning. Granted 99% of our hunting is done above 32f. I was hoping you would say an aftermarket trigger would solve this.
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That's is what is known as "the tikka circle."I turned my nose up at a Tikka in 2010, got a used M700 instead, that got traded on a used Remington 7600, which got sold to buy a Sako 85, which got sold to get a Kimber.
Now I'm thinking I might offload the Kimber and get a bloody Tikka.
Clean periodically and do not over lube your bolt and firing pin mechanism. Most FTF’s and slow pins are a result of old, congealed, hardened, dirty lube. Lube only very lightly, if at all, and use a quality synthetic oil/grease that is rated for low temp use. Keep it fresh. Grease only the rear shroud threads, lugs and primary extraction points.Thanks. More curious about preventing or reducing the likelihood rather than having to do a field fix.
This can’t be the first you’ve heard of this issue! My goodness, it’s been all over mainstream media even!As a father of 2 boys that hunt with 700s this is very concerning. Granted 99% of our hunting is done above 32f. I was hoping you would say an aftermarket trigger would solve this.
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Most popular POS in firearm history. Malfunctions aside, the thing has so many design flaws it’s simply a sad statement about humanity that they were/are so popular!I have sold off my 700s, between the inconsistent factory headspace, lack of an integral rail, and the trigger, there's no compelling reason to buy one imo.
Best thing is to not start with a hot rifle and then bail into the snow when its sub zero. A cold rifle will not have much snow stick to it. A lot of what we're "fixing" is worst case scenario stuff that not a lot of guys get into.Thanks. More curious about preventing or reducing the likelihood rather than having to do a field fix.