Husqvarna 1640

[Pony Soldier]

I have an 06 and 7Rem mag. They are light weight and extremely beautiful rifles.

I have read a couple of articles written by authors that disliked them and never understood their basis.

 

[cal30_sniper]

Thanks for reviving my want for a 1640 in 9.3.... I had mostly talked myself out of one

I'm a big Husqvarna shotgun nut, but don't have one of their rifles yet

I’ve always been hesitant of the 9.3x62 in a 1640. The extra pound or so that the Model 98 640 action carries helps tame the recoil a good bit. My 7 Mag 1640 is a handful. I’ve always lusted after one of the Norma Mags though, or a 7x57, which is uber rare in the states.

 

[cal30_sniper]

I have an 06 and 7Rem mag. They are light weight and extremely beautiful rifles.

I have read a couple of articles written by authors that disliked them and never understood their basis.

Not made here syndrome. IMO they’re one of the finest factory rifles from any era, even smoother than some of the earlier pre-war Mausers. The only thing I’ve got that handles as well is a mannlicher stocked 8x57 Czech model 98 that was built as a post-war guild gun, but those were full-on custom builds of their era.

 

[cal30_sniper]

I added another to the collection this week, in a cartridge I’ve been fascinated with for 20yrs: 358 Norma Mag. Now the hunt for brass begins, I’ve got one vintage box of Norma brass I found at a pawnshop in high school, but may end up forming the rest from 300 Win Mag at the going rate.

I’ve got a more recoil friendly stock I might put it in, and some Barnes 200gr TTSX bullets I plan to break into the solid copper hunting world with. Then again, I might leave the low comb stock on and install a Redfield peep sight depending on which Utah deer tag I end up drawing this year.

 

[AB3006]

I have 3, pics below. Two HVA 1640s (30-06 and 9.3x62) and a 1900 (6.5 Swede). The 1640 in '06 is in a custom heavy stock, whereas the one in 9.3 is in a light Schnabel stock. I'm thinking of switching them, so that the heavier wood eats up some of the recoil of the 9.3 (I load 165 grain '06s so the lighter stock is fine).

These are some of the absolute finest rifles I have personal experience with. In fact when I bought my first one (the '06), I sold my Howa 1500. The bolt is just utterly fabulous; smooth, with a firm and strong ejector. The 90 degree throw is a pain, but whatever. The only thing is, these rifles are CRF, so you need to single-load into the mag, not the chamber.

The 9.3 is a cannon, and has... noticeable... recoil at the range. I haven't had it hunting yet, but this fall it will be my elk medicine.

However, for sheer bolt smoothness and overall handiness: shouldering, balance and usability; NOTHING, absolutely nothing beats the 1900. I know that Husqvarna built the 1900 to decrease the production costs of the 1640, but whatever they did, no compromises were made. It's a beautiful, usable rifle that's great to shoot. And, of course, since the 6.5 is such a mild-mannered cartridge, the recoil is negligible. My oldest (skinny rake of 16) thought that it recoils less than his Savage 110 in 243.

If anyone is looking at HVAs (1640s and 1900s - these are the only ones I know), and there's one in good to excellent shape and at a price you can swallow (they usually are) - jump on it. I guarantee you won't regret it.

HVA 1640 in 30-06


HVA 1640 in 9.3x62


HVA 1900 in 6.5x55

 

[cal30_sniper]

I had my 9.3x62 1640 and .358 Norma 1651 out at the range today.

A lightweight 9.3x62 is not a thing that should exist. My full pressure 250gr Accubond loads were about to break me. It’s going in a heavier stock with a scope ASAP.




The .358 was hammering with every load I tried.

 

[AB3006]

I had my 9.3x62 1640 and .358 Norma 1651 out at the range today.

A lightweight 9.3x62 is not a thing that should exist. My full pressure 250gr Accubond loads were about to break me. It’s going in a heavier stock with a scope ASAP.




The .358 was hammering with every load I tried.
View attachment 874725
View attachment 874726View attachment 874727
View attachment 874728

Those are some impressive groups with some hefty boomsticks. 100 or 150 yards?

 

[cal30_sniper]

Those are some impressive groups with some hefty boomsticks. 100 or 150 yards?

Load dev at 100yds.

I took the 358 out to 300 yards testing BCs. It was still grouping 1 MOA:


The heavier stock/high comb on the .358 helps a bunch. I’m going to try to fit the 9.3x62 into a Hogue stock for an M98. I’ve got one on my 640 in .270 and it handles pretty dang good:

 

[cal30_sniper]

You guys inspired me.

I chucked some end mills into the harbor freight drill press last night and opened up the Hogue Mauser 98 stock to fit a Husky 1640. Still needs a few more spots worked before bedding, but it’s in and functions.

Front lug area had to drop about .080” to clear the deeper lug on the 1640:


The rear tang boss had to drop a lot. On the 1640, it’s .250” below the flat on the bottom of the receiver. The 98 is almost flat with a small boss around the bolt hole. Requires trimming around the safety quite a bit, and the internal cross bracing still has to be cut out to leave room for the safety bar that blocks the bolt:


The floorplate required a 7/8” end mill and a lot of trimming to open up for the much larger aluminum floorplate on the 1640. I also had to file the sides of the magwell to open it up near the front. It’s really tight, so I may do more. It also required opening up at the rear of the magwell where the inlet necks back down at the front of the trigger guard:



All in all, not bad! I may do another one for my .270 or 6.5x55. I’m more apt to hunt with them if I’m not worried about tearing up the pretty wood stocks.

 

[AB3006]

You guys inspired me.

I chucked some end mills into the harbor freight drill press last night and opened up the Hogue Mauser 98 stock to fit a Husky 1640. Still needs a few more spots worked before bedding, but it’s in and functions.

Front lug area had to drop about .080” to clear the deeper lug on the 1640:
View attachment 874836

The rear tang boss had to drop a lot. On the 1640, it’s .250” below the flat on the bottom of the receiver. The 98 is almost flat with a small boss around the bolt hole. Requires trimming around the safety quite a bit, and the internal cross bracing still has to be cut out to leave room for the safety bar that blocks the bolt:
View attachment 874837

The floorplate required a 7/8” end mill and a lot of trimming to open up for the much larger aluminum floorplate on the 1640. I also had to file the sides of the magwell to open it up near the front. It’s really tight, so I may do more. It also required opening up at the rear of the magwell where the inlet necks back down at the front of the trigger guard:
View attachment 874838


All in all, not bad! I may do another one for my .270 or 6.5x55. I’m more apt to hunt with them if I’m not worried about tearing up the pretty wood stocks.

View attachment 874839
View attachment 874840
View attachment 874841

Awesome, good to know it can be done relatively simply. Quick question: when you were cutting around the safety, did you end up climb cutting? It seems that the cutout is much rougher than the rest of your cuts. Definitely a problem in softer materials.

 

[cal30_sniper]

Awesome, good to know it can be done relatively simply. Quick question: when you were cutting around the safety, did you end up climb cutting? It seems that the cutout is much rougher than the rest of your cuts. Definitely a problem in softer materials.

Clamp came loose and I lost control of the end mill, walked up on me while I was working on the tang drop. Good news is it’ll be hidden when installed.

I’m going to try and use a die grinder and either carbides or sandpaper rolls to finish smoothing the bolt cutout and flat where the safety rides besides the tang.

 

[Weldor]

Don't know the model number , a few years back my good friend dropped his 30-06 husky and broke the aluminum trigger guard. I welded it back up and epoxy coated the whole thing. That rifle shot lights out. I'm surprised they are not more popular.

 

[AB3006]

Don't know the model number , a few years back my good friend dropped his 30-06 husky and broke the aluminum trigger guard. I welded it back up and epoxy coated the whole thing. That rifle shot lights out. I'm surprised they are not more popular.

Yeah, they're amazing quality, easily equal to anything mid-tier today. The level of precision in manufacturing and quality of materials used puts them right up there. It's also likely why they stopped making them, just couldn't compete on price. At the price (my most expensive one was $700CDN, that's under $500 'Murican), you get a premium firearm.

The trick is to find them in good shape. But, on the other hand except for the early milsurps these were all hunting weapons; used a few to a few dozen times per year, mostly with hunting loads (read: no hotrod barrel burners) and well stored and maintained. The ones that were run hot and put away wet in a gym locker with old socks just aren't around today.

 

[cal30_sniper]

Yeah, they're amazing quality, easily equal to anything mid-tier today. The level of precision in manufacturing and quality of materials used puts them right up there. It's also likely why they stopped making them, just couldn't compete on price. At the price (my most expensive one was $700CDN, that's under $500 'Murican), you get a premium firearm.

The trick is to find them in good shape. But, on the other hand except for the early milsurps these were all hunting weapons; used a few to a few dozen times per year, mostly with hunting loads (read: no hotrod barrel burners) and well stored and maintained. The ones that were run hot and put away wet in a gym locker with old socks just aren't around today.

I’d say comparing them to modern mid-tier is conservative unless you’re including boutique and customs in the upper rung. Once the stock bedding is sorted out, they’re as accurate as any of the best modern factory rifle I’ve shot, including Tikkas. MOA accuracy, CRF, and a trigger that’s guaranteed not to fail puts them in a rung with some pretty sought after customs. The only real drawback is the barrel profile in a world where everyone is going short suppressed. You have to cut one back around 18” to have enough meat for that, which I wouldn’t have the heart to do, at least on a nice one.

I’m on my 4th buy from Simpsons in the last 10 years, and all have been better than advertised. Highly recommend sorting through their stock and pulling the trigger on one that’s rated “excellent” for the bore with no other detracting factors listed. The ones I’ve found from them have been like new, and some have come with hidden goodies that weren’t like the Tradewinds Timney triggers.

 

[AB3006]

I’d say comparing them to modern mid-tier is conservative unless you’re including boutique and customs in the upper rung. Once the stock bedding is sorted out, they’re as accurate as any of the best modern factory rifle I’ve shot, including Tikkas. MOA accuracy, CRF, and a trigger that’s guaranteed not to fail puts them in a rung with some pretty sought after customs. The only real drawback is the barrel profile in a world where everyone is going short suppressed. You have to cut one back around 18” to have enough meat for that, which I wouldn’t have the heart to do, at least on a nice one.

I’m on my 4th buy from Simpsons in the last 10 years, and all have been better than advertised. Highly recommend sorting through their stock and pulling the trigger on one that’s rated “excellent” for the bore with no other detracting factors listed. The ones I’ve found from them have been like new, and some have come with hidden goodies that weren’t like the Tradewinds Timney triggers.

I've only ever handled a Tikka a few times, and shot one only once (10 pills down the pipe in 150gr 308). Yes, it was super nice, and that bolt is pure silk.

However, the 1900 beats it hands down in an apples to apples comparison (smooth bolt, firm ejector, and both rifles were DRF, same LOP). I find it very important how the rifle shoulders and how well it stays shouldered. Despite the 1900 having a 24" barrel (Tikka was 22"), I am more comfortable holding it up in ready position, steady on target for longer than I could with the Tikka. And, of course, it cost less than half the price.

My source is Intersurplus (I'm in Canuckistan), and I generally try to buy rifles in their "Good ++" condition with a "Very good bore" grade. So far I'm 3 for 3 super satisfied.

EDIT: Just went on the Tikka site, and the Tikka T3x Hunter in 9.3x62 weighs 3kg, that's 6.6 freedom kilos. F### me, but they must not like their shoulders.

 

[letrbuck]

Well thanks for reviving this thread and getting me thinking about getting one again....

How long are the mag boxes on these?

 

[cal30_sniper]

Well thanks for reviving this thread and getting me thinking about getting one again....

How long are the mag boxes on these?

3.38” was the maximum length that would fit in my .358 Norma magazine. To my knowledge, they all use the same length.

Every one I’ve tested was throated long also.

 

[cal30_sniper]

Clamp came loose and I lost control of the end mill, walked up on me while I was working on the tang drop. Good news is it’ll be hidden when installed.

I’m going to try and use a die grinder and either carbides or sandpaper rolls to finish smoothing the bolt cutout and flat where the safety rides besides the tang.

Safety is done, all functions normal.

As expected, I had to cut out the rear bridge in the stock behind the magazine well to clear the safety bolt lock bar. Before I did this, I drilled and tapped the stock and installed a 1/4-20 threaded rod with Marine Tex epoxy. Then I cut out the bridge.





The safety and bolt took some clearancing to work properly. I finished it off with the 120 grit die grinder rolls that I use for porting cylinder heads, which matched the Hogue finish perfectly.



All that’s left now is bedding. I’m really happy with how this turned out. Next will be Talley 30mm mounts and a Trijicon Credo 2-10X scope.

 

[Mpmoody15]

I have a 1640 in 9.3x62 that I have yet to fire. I picked up bullets and brass earlier this year but haven’t made any more progress. The lack of weight of this rifle intimidates me

 

[AB3006]

Safety is done, all functions normal.

As expected, I had to cut out the rear bridge in the stock behind the magazine well to clear the safety bolt lock bar. Before I did this, I drilled and tapped the stock and installed a 1/4-20 threaded rod with Marine Tex epoxy. Then I cut out the bridge.
View attachment 875245
View attachment 875246

View attachment 875247

The safety and bolt took some clearancing to work properly. I finished it off with the 120 grit die grinder rolls that I use for porting cylinder heads, which matched the Hogue finish perfectly.

View attachment 875249

All that’s left now is bedding. I’m really happy with how this turned out. Next will be Talley 30mm mounts and a Trijicon Credo 2-10X scope.

View attachment 875248

Looks great. I wouldn't have thought of replacing the bridge with a threaded rod - great bit of problem solving there.

On mine, the heavy stock on the '06 is already epoxied. If it's glassed, they used a single-ply cloth that is invisible embedded. However, the light schnabel stock on the 9.3 is not glassed and I want to before I swap them. What would you recommend for glassing?