Husqvarna 1640

[letrbuck]

Husqvarna 1640s, who has one and what do you like and dislike about it?

Seems like they're a good mauser type action, triggers are so-so. How you'll you compare to other CRF actions? Anyone tuned the factory trigger or have experice with the huber triggers?

 

[Fishermen0105]

The trigger on mine is good so I’ve never messed with it. Has an older weaver k4 and shoots good.

 

[VernAK]

I'm down to owning only one.....a 4100. When I bought this one, it had a Timney Trigger. It has a Lyman Receiver Sight and shoots as well as my old eyes can shoot. They are a joy to carry. I'm sure you've been told about relieving the wood at the tang. A very smooth and reliable action.

Finding good info on Husqvarna Rifles can be frustrating but some tell me my 4100 is the same as 1640 but with walnut stock. I've also owned a couple 1640s all in 06, but would love to find a 9.3x62.

There seems to be a lot more Husqvarnas in Canada. I find a few here because the Army Base Exchange sold them back in the 60s and I've picked up a couple from old soldiers.

 

[blairvt]

Liked it alot, kicked like a mule in 30-06

 

[VernAK]

Husqvarna 1640s, who has one and what do you like and dislike about it?

Seems like they're a good mauser type action, triggers are so-so. How you'll you compare to other CRF actions? Anyone tuned the factory trigger or have experice with the huber triggers?

 

[robtattoo]

Husqvarna 1640s, who has one and what do you like and dislike about it?

Seems like they're a good mauser type action, triggers are so-so. How you'll you compare to other CRF actions? Anyone tuned the factory trigger or have experice with the huber triggers?

I couldn't personally comment on Huber triggers, but any m98 trigger will work. If yours has the old flag safety, you'll maybe want to look at switching out the cocking piece shroud to eliminate it & go with the standard, side safety (ie: Timney) although if you're cool with it, Timney also offer a version that works. If you want to mount a scope sensibly, you'll need to do the safety delete.

I've got a couple of the older M46s, based on the Mauser 95/96 action & they are fine firearms. The 1640 is a far stronger action (not as pretty to my eye, but that's me) & depending on year, will be built on a military (thumb cut out, left side) or civilian (solid side) receiver. They're fantastic rifles and very highly regarded in Europe, where 90% of them still live.

 

[robtattoo]

Sunny Hill Enterprises - Accessories

These are the guys for the bolt shroud. $57.50 shipped (for the 96 anyway) I think the 98 will be the same.

 

[letrbuck]

I couldn't personally comment on Huber triggers, but any m98 trigger will work. If yours has the old flag safety, you'll maybe want to look at switching out the cocking piece shroud to eliminate it & go with the standard, side safety (ie: Timney) although if you're cool with it, Timney also offer a version that works. If you want to mount a scope sensibly, you'll need to do the safety delete.

I've got a couple of the older M46s, based on the Mauser 95/96 action & they are fine firearms. The 1640 is a far stronger action (not as pretty to my eye, but that's me) & depending on year, will be built on a military (thumb cut out, left side) or civilian (solid side) receiver. They're fantastic rifles and very highly regarded in Europe, where 90% of them still live.

I thought all 1640s were civilian? I've not known of one with a thumb cut reciever

 

[letrbuck]

View attachment 533990

Pretty neat old article. Pretty sure I've convinced myself to buy one in 9.3x62. Need to evict a couple guns from the safe first

 

[robtattoo]

I thought all 1640s were civilian? I've not known of one with a thumb cut reciever

The earliest 1640s were on leftover military contact receivers, although I believe it was only the first couple of years & they're rare.

 

[robtattoo]

Pretty neat old article. Pretty sure I've convinced myself to buy one in 9.3x62. Need to evict a couple guns from the safe first

EVERYBODY should have a 9.3x62!

 

[robtattoo]

I presume you've been checking Simpsons?

 

[letrbuck]

I have, a 1640 in 9.3 hasn't popped up in a while, and they usually have an issue or two. I've found a great condition later 1640 (alloy bottom metal) that I will probably buy once I move a few other guns

 

[robtattoo]

You can always have it bored out later, if you're feeling froggy.

 

[Kal-Elk]

I'm sure you've been told about relieving the wood at the tang.

Would you mind elaborating for those of us out of the know?

 

[VernAK]

These 1640 series Husqvarnas are usually too tight at the back of the tang.....simply remove the stock and relieve that area a bit before the stock cracks........many have cracked stocks. I relieved my 4100 and bedded the entire action including the tang.

 

[Kal-Elk]

Good to know, thanks for the info. Came across a nice looking 1640 for sale and been doing research before I get too emotionally committed to buying yet another rifle.

 

[Pony Soldier]

I've had two in 7 Rm. I put a timney in one for the safety. The other I still have unchanged. I also have one in 06.

They shoot fine. I killed 10-15 elk and a lot of deer until I changed to Brownings. The only complaint I have had was with the safety. They tend to slide to off with it over your shoulder.

 

[cal30_sniper]

The earliest 1640s were on leftover military contact receivers, although I believe it was only the first couple of years & they're rare.

This is not correct info. The early 146 and 640 actions WERE based on FN Mauser 98 actions, which started with full military features like a thumb cut and stripper clip guide, but transitioned to commercial features only by the early 50s. Those early 50s actions are the same as the FN Supreme, which eventually led to Browning, Interarms Mark X, etc. Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but I have a passion for these things.

The 1600 and 1900 series was an all new action that’s best described as a modified small ring Mauser 98 derivative. It’s a full length action, unlike the earlier small ring 96, and only ever sold commercially (no military use).

The 1600/1900 uses a different trigger than a 98 due to the unique safety used on those rifles. The tang has additional metal added on the right hand side to accommodate this, so a 98 trigger won’t work without some serious gunsmithing. Huber Concepts does offer a trigger for the Husky, and it’s a good upgrade over stock.

Scope rings are different than a 98 also, due to the small ring diameter forward reciever. Talley makes one piece ring/mount combos, and Leupold 1 piece mounts were also made (not sure if they still are). I think there are also options to use 2 piece bases for a 96 small ring, but you’ve got to be careful on hole spacing.

The ring diameter and extra metal in the tang affects stock fitment as well. Action screw spacing is the same as a 98, but you’ll need in letting and bedding work. Most 1600/1900 rifles also used aluminum bottom metal thats chunkier than a 98. McMillan used to inlet stocks for the 1600 action, they might still.

I’m a Husqvarna NUT. They’re beautifully made rifle, everyone I have shoots lights out, and the used market is soft relative to similar period offerings on the commercial Mauser action like FN and Browing. At the present, I’m sitting on:

Husky 640 in .220 Swift
Husky 640 in .270 (I hunt with this pretty often)
Husky 640 in 9.3x62
Husky 1640 in 6.5x55
S&W Model C (Husky 1640) in .270
Husky 1640 in .30-06
Husky 1640 in 7mm Rem Mag

Note I’m using generic 640/1640 designators as that’s pretty well standard way to refer to the different actions. The actual model numbers of the rifles changed based on barrel length, grade, and wood (1600, 1900, etc). My 640s span the transition period from military features to commercial features, with the 1947 9.3x62 being pretty close to a military 98, and the 1951 .270 being a full commercial action.

Here’s my 640 .270 with my first Colorado Muley. It wears a Hogue stock for a Mauser 98 in the field:

 

[letrbuck]

This is not correct info. The early 146 and 640 actions WERE based on FN Mauser 98 actions, which started with full military features like a thumb cut and stripper clip guide, but transitioned to commercial features only by the early 50s. Those early 50s actions are the same as the FN Supreme, which eventually led to Browning, Interarms Mark X, etc. Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but I have a passion for these things.

The 1600 and 1900 series was an all new action that’s best described as a modified small ring Mauser 98 derivative. It’s a full length action, unlike the earlier small ring 96, and only ever sold commercially (no military use).

The 1600/1900 uses a different trigger than a 98 due to the unique safety used on those rifles. The tang has additional metal added on the right hand side to accommodate this, so a 98 trigger won’t work without some serious gunsmithing. Huber Concepts does offer a trigger for the Husky, and it’s a good upgrade over stock.

Scope rings are different than a 98 also, due to the small ring diameter forward reciever. Talley makes one piece ring/mount combos, and Leupold 1 piece mounts were also made (not sure if they still are). I think there are also options to use 2 piece bases for a 96 small ring, but you’ve got to be careful on hole spacing.

The ring diameter and extra metal in the tang affects stock fitment as well. Action screw spacing is the same as a 98, but you’ll need in letting and bedding work. Most 1600/1900 rifles also used aluminum bottom metal thats chunkier than a 98. McMillan used to inlet stocks for the 1600 action, they might still.

I’m a Husqvarna NUT. They’re beautifully made rifle, everyone I have shoots lights out, and the used market is soft relative to similar period offerings on the commercial Mauser action like FN and Browing. At the present, I’m sitting on:

Husky 640 in .220 Swift
Husky 640 in .270 (I hunt with this pretty often)
Husky 640 in 9.3x62
Husky 1640 in 6.5x55
S&W Model C (Husky 1640) in .270
Husky 1640 in .30-06
Husky 1640 in 7mm Rem Mag

Note I’m using generic 640/1640 designators as that’s pretty well standard way to refer to the different actions. The actual model numbers of the rifles changed based on barrel length, grade, and wood (1600, 1900, etc). My 640s span the transition period from military features to commercial features, with the 1947 9.3x62 being pretty close to a military 98, and the 1951 .270 being a full commercial action.

Here’s my 640 .270 with my first Colorado Muley. It wears a Hogue stock for a Mauser 98 in the field:

View attachment 832074

Thanks for reviving my want for a 1640 in 9.3.... I had mostly talked myself out of one

I'm a big Husqvarna shotgun nut, but don't have one of their rifles yet