Having a semi-custom built

[Ashy Larry]

I've been overall displeased with my yote/LR deer gun, a savage axis in 25-06. I did the trigger, did the stock, nice scope etc and just couldn't get the gun past 1.25 moa with any factory ammo or handloads. I work with a gunsmith who builds competition benchrest guns as well as precision ARs. He's offered to help me build a gun and I feel like I won't get this opportunity too many more times in life.

He recommended a Savage 110/111 action bc they are easy to work with and he likes the floating bolt head. So today I talked a pawn shop out of an older synthetic/blued 110 30-06 for $240.

Plans:
25-06
Either Shilen or Hawk Hill 26" stainless varmint contour 1:9 twist barrel
Bell and Carlson Sporter stock
Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 scope
Rifle Basix trigger if he can't get the factory one right.

I'll update the thread as things go along in case others had similar ideas or interest.

 

[tlowell02]

Isn't 1.25 MOA pretty dang good?

 

[Ashy Larry]

1.25 was absolute best, usually not repeatable. Most of the time around 2 moa, which i dont think is very good. Either way, if the gun shot MOA id probably still want a custom build, because im a man, and men like to tinker.

 

[Fire_9]

Isn't 1.25 MOA pretty dang good?

Uh....no

 

[TauPhi111]

Sounds like you're on the right track. I built a precision rifle in 260 AI on a Savage 111 action and it turned out to be an amazing rifle. I used a Criterion barrel and Boyds stock with a Vortex Viper PST scope. It can probably do 1/4 MOA but the best I can hold at 200 yards to zero is a little less than 1/2 MOA. Shilen barrels are excellent too. I have one on a 358 Win that is not really a long range gun, but it can shoot sub MOA groups. I have a Timney trigger in mine which has proven to be very nice. Bottom metal and a AICS style mag are a nice touch for a long range gun. I got mine from PTG. Good luck with your build. Be sure to post pics

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Isn't 1.25 MOA pretty dang good?

Not really, esp. if you want to shoot at further distances where other factors are going to also mess with your point of impact. For that you want the gun shooting as tight as possible off the bat. 1.25MOA at 600yd for instance is already a 7.5" group without wind, temp, altitude, etc. messing with things further. Yes you try and account for those but chances are you'll be off a tad on some thus its nicer to be starting from 1/2MOA (or less is certainly nicer) for instance.

 

[gumbl3]

I had great luck with McGowen Barrels for Savage.. .5 minute with some hand loads, and of course stock and trigger upgrading. They may even have a pre fit ready to go for that chambering so turn around would be quit

 

[howl]

There's nothing custom requiring a gunsmith about a Savage build. You just screw on a new barrel and bed it in the stock of your choice. That's what they do at the factory; assemble a rifle from boxes of parts. Thing is you're gonna have the whole thing built on a clunky action when you're done. It ain't all bad. They'll work well enough for a good while. And the upside is it is really easy to slap together a rifle that will print great grops and run well enough for the shorter term.

 

[BrushyHillGuide]

I would not pay a gunsmith to build a Savage based rifle. That’s a at-home shop project. No gunsmith required. In fact, I kinda wonder about a gunsmith that offers to ”build” you a rifle on a Savage. That’s an assembly, not a build. No doubt THATS what he likes about a Savage. Lo. I like savage for a factory rifle- I’ve got 2 and one shoots my handloads in the .2s out to 600. It’s an exceptional rifle that was under $1k. That said, I’m not throwing much after a Savage except a new barrel one day. If you’re looking for an inexpensive action to build a semi custom off, use a Tikka or an OLDER R700 action and have it trued. Tikka actions rarely need truing. These will require some true gunsmithing for the action work (on the 700) as well as chambering and crowning the barrel and head spacing.

Since you already have the action, go on YouTube and learn how to rebarrel the action and bed a Savage. It’s EASY! You’ll know your rifle and have some pride in having assembled it yourself! Go to Criterion for a barrel, get a Savage barrel but wrench and some go/no go gauges and some marine-tex and you’ll be all set!

Isn't 1.25 MOA pretty dang good?

Not at all. I won’t own a rifle that won’t shoot 1moa or better. Even my gas guns shoot 1moa or better. Now, they may not shoot ALL ammo that well but, if I can’t find a factory or handload that’ll shoot at LEAST 1moa, I’m delighted that problem on down the road. Most of my factory rifles will shoot at or below .75moa with one premium factory load or another and .5 or better with handloads. My custom rifles shoot sub .5moa with factory ammo and .3moa or less with handloads.


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[Beastmode]

A ton of animals have been killed by guns that shot 1.25 moa. I wouldn’t be too quick to judge. It all depends what you are wanting to do. If its a long range setup it’s not what I would personally look for.


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[Ashy Larry]

I guess I shouldn't say "build." In talking more with him today and ordering the barrel, it will be more of an assembly. I'm going to be helping him put it all together.

 

[BrushyHillGuide]

A ton of animals have been killed by guns that shot 1.25 moa. I wouldn’t be too quick to judge. It all depends what you are wanting to do. If its a long range setup it’s not what I would personally look for.


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Sure, that’s true. But in today’s gun world, with improvements in machining, bulletin construction, powders, case construction and knowledge, 1moa is a pretty low bar. Until 10-15 years ago I’d agree with you but these days it’s much easier to attain 1moa. At least for a shooter that is able to shoot 1moa or better with every shot.

Of course you can kill lots of stuff with 1.25 or 1.5moa, including coyotes. But the success rate of a sub-MOA shooter is just going to be better than a 1.5moa shooter, all else being equal. The more accuracy and precision a rifle/shooter is capable of, the easier shots are and the more shots that are available. Coyote shows only his head at 150-200yds. The better the rifle shoots the more likely you are to take/make the shot. Same thing with high shoulder shots on whitetail. At 200yds or 300yds or 400yds that high shoulder shot gets much more difficult. It’s a zero tracking placement, though. If your rifle is capable of sub MOA shooting, you’re probably going to recover more animals than you would with a rifle like the OP described.

Besides, the op said he couldn’t get BETTE than 1.25” WITH HANDLOADS!! That means a lot of his groups were probably a LOT bigger, especially with factory hunting loads. That, there, is a “lemon!” Precision shooting is precision shooting, whether I’m shooting a coyote in the face at 50yds, a whitetail at 664yds or a steel plate at 1050yds - it’s not only important in LR. I want to pick out a very small spot (like an eyeball on a coyote) and hit it! Not the nose. Not the neck. Not the ear. The eyeball - exactly what I aimed at. That’s just me. Killing it is great but killing it with precision gives me a 2 thumbs up! Lol.


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[desertcj]

Should turn out pretty well I believe. I have a stock Savage Varmint that shoots in the .3s and Im putting together another in 7mm Rem Mag with a Shilen barrel. Pretty? Nah. Cheap? Not really, but cheaper for sure. Out shooting guys with custom Rem 700s, Priceless! Lol

 

[maninthemaze]

Isn't 1.25 MOA pretty dang good?

A gun that shoots 1.25 MOA is a good Eastern whitetail gun, where shots are under 100 yards. My 8mm Mauser is like that. I wouldn't shoot it past 200 yards.

And do some research about bedding the Savage rifles. They like the tang and the barrel to be free floated. Otherwise, they're a great action to build off of, without a gunsmith.

Just my 2 cents and worth the price charged.

 

[Ashy Larry]

When I get the new stock, it will be bedded.

 

[TonySkyline]

Not a fan of the axis. My brother has one and he hates it as well. Not as consistent as my model 10 but hey its an entry level rifle. I was thinking of turning my savage into a semi custom build as well and going from a heavy target rifle to a light weight mountain rifle but it is honestly pointless. I am now going to either get a stainless tikka t3 lite and use that action (smoothest factory action) or order a titanium pierce action but they are well over 1k just for the action but are super lightweight. The way I figure it, I have a long time before I will be using it. 1-3 years depending on what tags I can draw! I will probably end up taking it slow and expensive

 

[TonySkyline]

Should turn out pretty well I believe. I have a stock Savage Varmint that shoots in the .3s and Im putting together another in 7mm Rem Mag with a Shilen barrel. Pretty? Nah. Cheap? Not really, but cheaper for sure. Out shooting guys with custom Rem 700s, Priceless! Lol

I live a half hour away from Remington arms and still would not start a build with a Remington action. I think they are over rated these days. Def not as smooth as others and don't personally think they are better than savage. More options, yes but that is because it has been around forever. I do however like the XCR edition. Supposedly better than stainless. I have the cheaper version with my TC venture with weathershield, lol

 

[kpk]

I actually bought a savage 10T to do a build on a few years ago. I dropped the action/barrel in an HS precision stock and the stupid thing shoots so well I couldn't take it apart. Factory ammo was typical factory accuracy but I've shot numerous 5 shot groups at .24. If it opens up to more than .5 - I'm having a bad day.

Savages are super easy to modify so long as you can find the right action screw spacing parts you need. Just make sure you slam that bolt like you mean it on the Savage!

 

[Ashy Larry]

A pic of the donor rifle. The barrel should be in any day now. I'm going to have the action cerakoted while it's apart. I like weather resistance on hunting guns. The scope (Athlon Argos 6-24x50 BTR) is bought with vortex anti cant bubble, flip caps, sunshade, and one piece mount. Need to order a one piece rail this week.

At this point I'm going to have wait a spell on the stock. Maybe the trigger too. Our well went dry a week before Christmas and we had to have a new one bored to the tune of $8500.

 

[Kotaman]

I did exactly what you did awhile back. Built a 6.5 Creedmoor with that Savage action, a McGowan screw on barrel, HS Precision stock and rifle basix trigger. That rifle is a tact driver. A little “clunky and heavy” for my tastes, but it shoots.