$4K Budget for .30-06 + Optic - Elk Rifle

z987k

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$2k more than stock Tikka; $1k more than Mark V Hunter.

Here is what you get with APR Maverick:
Cut rifled barrel
Bedded action
Carbon fiber stock
Your desired stock paint/camo, barrel length/twist, fluting pattern, cerakote color

Only you can decide if these “features” are worth the extra money.
None of those features will make an animal more dead, or make him hit where he would have missed with a stock tikka, weatherby, etc at anything under 500.
 

BjornF16

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None of those features will make an animal more dead, or make him hit where he would have missed with a stock tikka at anything under 500.
It would have made a difference based upon the stock T3X in 7mm-08 I bought that wouldn’t hold 3 MOA at 100 yds...I ended up with new barrel, new stock for considerably more than $500.

Tikka will weasel out of their 1 MOA guarantee...wouldn’t have that problem with APR.

Just sayin’...
 

z987k

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A gun I'm eyeing really hard right now is the new Nosler M21. At least at the going price. Not for MSRP.
 
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I agree that shooting more is great advice. But perhaps he's already budgeted a boatload of $$ for ammo?

I know all are well-intentioned, but some of the posts remind me of GunsAmerica comments for firearm reviews. "$2,499 for a Staccato 2011 P?! I could buy the Glock 32 for $500, and it's just as good!" Do we "need" alpha glass, Kifaru packs and Feathered Friends bags? Probably not. What one "needs" is hard to define or justify - especially if we start asking our spouses. Should we all buy Saturn cars (are they even made anymore) and base model trucks too? There is no way I need my Cooper, but I get a shitload of enjoyment out of it - holding it, shooting it, and thinking about it. But I'm f&@ked up.
There are many similarities between backpacking and backpack hunting - and I will spend the additional money on better gear when needed. I use a $750 DCF tent, which some backpackers think is insane, but the damn thing weighs a fraction of what a much smaller freestanding double wall tent weighs, among other benefits. If there is a true benefit, I will spend the money. Having said that, almost every handgun I own and trust my life with is a Glock. I'm not into the ultra high end handgun thing.
Also, you think this will be you're only rifle. It won't.
Give it like a year/2 hunts. Use the 2k saved and buy that second rifle you don't think you want.

Also, you'll be buying a suppressor as soon as you get to use one, especially for hunting.
Good advice, thank you.
It would have made a difference based upon the stock T3X in 7mm-08 I bought that wouldn’t hold 3 MOA at 100 yds...I ended up with new barrel, new stock for considerably more than $500.

Tikka will weasel out of their 1 MOA guarantee...wouldn’t have that problem with APR.

Just sayin’...
How much $ did you have in the tikka after making these changes?
 
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fwafwow

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There are many similarities between backpacking and backpack hunting - and I will spend the additional money on better gear when needed. I use an $750 DCF tent, which some backpackers think is insane, but the damn thing weighs a fraction of what a much smaller freestanding double wall tent weighs, among other benefits. If there is a true benefit, I will spend the money. Having said that, almost every handgun I own and trust my life with is a Glock. I'm not into the ultra high end handgun thing.
I was making analogies to support your starting position of allocating $4k to a rifle and optics.
 

BjornF16

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How much $ did you have in the tikka after making these changes?
Allterra Arms Carbon fiber stock - $550
Carbon Six barrel, Tikka pre-fit, chambered in 7mm-08 - $775
Gunsmith work - $75

Info on rifling methods:


Edit: I will say that I really like the Tikka action itself. Shorter bolt lift, smooth, reliable. It seems that I got a “lemon” barrel. I will also say I hate the plastic stock. It was warped, barrel didn’t sit evenly within the channel. I was going to upgrade the stock regardless of factory barrel accuracy. I also bought a .223 8 twist Tikka...it was perfect (But I changed the stock to match the 7mm-08).
 
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For the OP I suggest shouldering as many rifles as you can. Folks can recommend stuff all day long but if it doesn’t fit you, then you’d be better served crossing if off your list. If you are new to shooting, then I strongly recommend taking classes. Better to learn how to shoot properly from the onset then try to unlearn bad habits at a later date.

For the items below I am making an assumption that the Tikka fits you. Adjust the items below as needed. With minimal effort, it would be easy to knock off a chunk of money for all of these items.

Bulletproof
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite, your choice of rings and base, and a 4-16 Nightforce ATACR. It’d be in the $3300-3400 range. Leaves some money for ammo and potentially a class or two on shooting fundamentals.

Highly Functional
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite, your choice of rings and base, and a quality scope. Some Rokslide favorites are Nightforce SHV, Zeiss V4, and Vortex Razor LHT. This would put you in the $1700-2000 range. Leaves money for a lot of ammo and potentially shooting classes.

Smartest - Hunting
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite in 30-06 and a stainless Tikka T3X SuperLite in 6.5 Creedmoor, your choice of rings and base on both, and the same quality scope on both. You’ll have more enjoyable range sessions as you can let a rifle cool while shooting the other one. You can hunt almost anything in North America with this combination. This would put you in the $3400-3600 range. Leaves some money for ammo.

Smartest - Range
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite in 30-06 and a stainless Tikka T3X SuperLite in 223 Creedmoor, your choice of rings and base on both, and the same quality scope on both. You’ll have more enjoyable range sessions as you can let a rifle cool while shooting the other one. You can use less expensive ammo in the 223 for extended range sessions. This would put you in the $3400-3600 range. Leaves some money for ammo.
 

Spoonbill

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If I end up going with a high end rifle, I am leaning toward the Alamo Maverick.


Thanks for chiming in - I am not set on an expensive custom rifle so this is still something I am considering.

The $4K isn't for the rifle, it's for the rifle plus the optic. What percentage of hunters can ethically shoot beyond the effective range of the .30-06? Why is spending money on a versatile caliber ill advised?


I haven't spent nearly as much time looking at rifles as I have spent researching calibers. Nobody worth his own salt would disagree with the fact that the .30-06 is an incredibly versatile round. That doesn't mean it's the best round for any given context, because it's not, but a 6.5 cannot "do everything better." There are only trade-offs, there is no perfect round. I am not fully committed to the .30-06 - I'm open to suggestions, but it's a solid choice when the trade-offs of every round are taken into consideration.



Having the extra $2K to spend in other areas is appealing. I am not set on an expensive custom rifle so this is still something I am considering.


Thank you, see post immediately above.

Its versatility is appealing to me. It has manageable recoil compared to the magnum rounds, yet it is an appropriate hunting round for everything in North America short of coastal browns or inland grizzlies. What caliber would recommend instead?



What round do you prefer for elk? My experience with long guns is mostly limited to shotguns and smaller caliber rifles such as the .223 or 7.62x39. The largest caliber rifle I've fired is the 8mm.
The 270 win would be a good choice. Flatter shooting, less recoil and just as capable of a round when using the right bullet.
There are threads on the different 6.5 rounds and their effectiveness, could help make your decision.
Nothing wrong with a 30-06, but if going lightweight Maybe consider a muzzle break or a suppressor to help with recoil. You can always get a removeable muzzle break, just need to check your point of impact after taking it off.
 

Jjmayes83

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I have questions for all of you Tikka lovers out there. I've shot Tikka rifles a few times 2 shot pretty well 1 not so much. I dont own one personally(and I wont because the ones I shot didn't impress me. I have absolutely nothing against them, just not my thing)but a few friends and family own them and they don't swear by them at all its just another gun to them. Is this why everyone says buy a Tikka and upgrade it because there not great stock? Or are they great stock and your telling him to upgrade because of his budget? And if its just because of his budget and they really are that great stock. why waste the extra money? And just so everyone is clear not being an ass. Just very curious why just about everyone says "buy Tikka upgrade".
 
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Because it has a 1-11 twist barrel.

The guy wants a point and shoot rifle for factory ammo. I'm not aware of factory 30/06 ammo that wont work fine in a 11 twist. I'm not even sure there's a bullet I'd want to handload in a factory tikka 30/06 that wouldn't be just fine for his purposes with an 11 twist.
 
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I have a brand new unfired ss 3006 tikka I’d sell for 3k with 120 pieces of brass. Then you could put the other grand into a nice scope. Lol just messing! Best wishes on your purchase. Brownings tikkas Christian arms are all nice and shoot well.
 
OP
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I was making analogies to support your starting position of allocating $4k to a rifle and optics.
I get it - I was pointing out that in other hobbies I generally only splurge when I see a material benefit. I would never replace my Glock 19 with a $2,000 handgun. If buying a custom Alamo is the exact same thing as buying a $2,000 handgun instead of a Glock, I'd take that into consideration, but many here seem to think this is a flawed comparison.
Allterra Arms Carbon fiber stock - $550
Carbon Six barrel, Tikka pre-fit, chambered in 7mm-08 - $775
Gunsmith work - $75

Info on rifling methods:


Edit: I will say that I really like the Tikka action itself. Shorter bolt lift, smooth, reliable. It seems that I got a “lemon” barrel. I will also say I hate the plastic stock. It was warped, barrel didn’t sit evenly within the channel. I was going to upgrade the stock regardless of factory barrel accuracy. I also bought a .223 8 twist Tikka...it was perfect (But I changed the stock to match the 7mm-08).
The fit and finish of the rifle is a concern. I am critical of details and a warped stock, or a barrel that was off center in the channel would be disappointing.

For the OP I suggest shouldering as many rifles as you can. Folks can recommend stuff all day long but if it doesn’t fit you, then you’d be better served crossing if off your list. If you are new to shooting, then I strongly recommend taking classes. Better to learn how to shoot properly from the onset then try to unlearn bad habits at a later date.

For the items below I am making an assumption that the Tikka fits you. Adjust the items below as needed. With minimal effort, it would be easy to knock off a chunk of money for all of these items.

Bulletproof
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite, your choice of rings and base, and a 4-16 Nightforce ATACR. It’d be in the $3300-3400 range. Leaves some money for ammo and potentially a class or two on shooting fundamentals.

Highly Functional
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite, your choice of rings and base, and a quality scope. Some Rokslide favorites are Nightforce SHV, Zeiss V4, and Vortex Razor LHT. This would put you in the $1700-2000 range. Leaves money for a lot of ammo and potentially shooting classes.

Smartest - Hunting
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite in 30-06 and a stainless Tikka T3X SuperLite in 6.5 Creedmoor, your choice of rings and base on both, and the same quality scope on both. You’ll have more enjoyable range sessions as you can let a rifle cool while shooting the other one. You can hunt almost anything in North America with this combination. This would put you in the $3400-3600 range. Leaves some money for ammo.

Smartest - Range
Grab a stainless Tikka T3x Lite in 30-06 and a stainless Tikka T3X SuperLite in 223 Creedmoor, your choice of rings and base on both, and the same quality scope on both. You’ll have more enjoyable range sessions as you can let a rifle cool while shooting the other one. You can use less expensive ammo in the 223 for extended range sessions. This would put you in the $3400-3600 range. Leaves some money for ammo.
I am not new to shooting, but I am new to "long range" shooting. I definitely plan on taking some long range shooting classes at my local spot. I'm fortunate to have a range that goes out to 1,200 yards about 40 minutes away.
 

SDHNTR

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imho…yes, the Maverick is worth the extra $$$ especially if this is a one and done rifle. Specify your barrel length, twist and paint scheme. Smooth action. Rifle personalized to your preferences. Hard to beat.

The Mark V Hunter will be plastic stock (but I like it’s form factor which is a copy of their Backcountry). Mark V action is nice. The Hunter will be the new “entry level” Mark V.

In your shoes, I’d go APR
Agreed. Everything about the Alamo is a significant step up. One really can’t appreciate the next level until they’ve experienced it. If all you care about it something that goes bang and hits where you are aiming, then don’t spend the money. If you appreciate better accuracy (although 1” vs 1/2” is mostly negligible at reasonable hunting distances) precision machining, tighter clearances, tighter, better feel, better fit and finish and cosmetics, then it’s worth the money, imo.
 
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I haven't spent nearly as much time looking at rifles as I have spent researching calibers. Nobody worth his own salt would disagree with the fact that the .30-06 is an incredibly versatile round. That doesn't mean it's the best round for any given context, because it's not, but a 6.5 cannot "do everything better." There are only trade-offs, there is no perfect round. I am not fully committed to the .30-06 - I'm open to suggestions, but it's a solid choice when the trade-offs of every round are taken into consideration.

Its versatility is appealing to me. It has manageable recoil compared to the magnum rounds, yet it is an appropriate hunting round for everything in North America short of coastal browns or inland grizzlies. What caliber would recommend instead?
The 30-06 is fine, but it’s not particularly versatile or light recoiling in a lightweight rifle. My T3X lite with an SWFA 3-9 shooting 175-180 gr bullets gets uncomfortable rather quickly, and there’s no way in hell I’m spotting impacts. The only thing it does better than a 6.5 prc, 280ai/7 saum, 6.8 western, etc., is shoot very heavy bullets anemically slow, which I’ll touch on below.

With the right bullet selection, those above will kill elk (or anything else) just as dead, at longer ranges, and with less recoil (other than the 6.8 western, which will recoil as much or more). A significant recoil reduction will make you more likely to practice adequately, and the higher MV and BC will give you a much larger margin of error in range and wind estimation. If you were a reloader and wanted to hot rod something in the 200-215 gr area in the 06, the difference wouldn’t be as significant. That would come at the cost of recoil, and you still end up with marginal velocity. You mentioned you don’t load, so none of that is relevant. It also doesn’t matter what twist rate a tikka has, as you probably won’t find factory .308 or 30-06 ammo over 180 grains.

If someone really wanted to look at the significance of these differences, the WEZ calculator would be great for looking at the difference in hit rates. I’m lazy, so I’ll just give a quick comparison of Federal’s claimed wind drift (10mph full value) at 400 yards with 6.5 PRC, 280 AI, and 30-06 Terminal Ascent factory ammo. 9.6 inches, 8.9 inches, and 11.4 inches, respectively. If that seems small, just remember you’re stacking tolerances. Getting an advantage where you can matters.

As I alluded to earlier, if the desire is heavy, high BC .30 cal bullets, there are plenty of great magnum cartridges to choose from.

All that said, I didn’t recommend other cartridges because I dislike the 30-06. It just opens up options such as Fierce and Seekins. Both make nice rifles with reasonable weights and ergonomical stocks. The latter is still hard to find in a factory hunting rifle.

Thinking about it more, I would probably avoid going high dollar on a first big game rifle. After a year or two using it you’ll know much more about what you like or dislike. The nice thing about a cheap tikka is that you can add a vertical grip and cheek riser for $75 and 30 minutes of your time. No need to feel bad drilling holes into their cheap Tupperware stock, and painting it can be a fun project. Back to the recoil, allotting ~$1k of your budget to a nice can would also be a great option. If you do end up with a lightweight 30-06, I’d really recommend either a suppressor or brake. Range sessions would be more comfortable, and follow up shots would be faster.

Good luck in your search, I hope you find what fits your needs. There’s plenty to choose from. FWIW, the Bushnell LRHS/LRTS scopes are very impressive for the price and worth consideration.
 
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I get it - I was pointing out that in other hobbies I generally only splurge when I see a material benefit. I would never replace my Glock 19 with a $2,000 handgun. If buying a custom Alamo is the exact same thing as buying a $2,000 handgun instead of a Glock, I'd take that into consideration, but many here seem to think this is a flawed comparison.
For what you've mentioned as purpose, I dont think that comparison is too far off.

Is a Alamo going to have a nicer stock than a tikka or sako? yes. Can be relatable to a glock where many dislike the grip.

Is it going to more reliable? I'd say no and to the contrary, probably less reliable and I'd say that about almost any 700 platform rifle. Could be relatable to your glock comparison where the hopped up versions are probably less reliable than the factory one.

Is it going to shoot marginally smaller groups? odds are in favor of that being the case but it could actually go the opposite direction too. Could argue that for the purpose you've laid out it wont matter in hunting situations.
 

BjornF16

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Is it going to more reliable? I'd say no and to the contrary, probably less reliable and I'd say that about almost any 700 platform rifle. Could be relatable to your glock comparison where the hopped up versions are probably less reliable than the factory one.

Is it going to shoot marginally smaller groups? odds are in favor of that being the case but it could actually go the opposite direction too. Could argue that for the purpose you've laid out it wont matter in hunting situations.

I’m curious as why a 700 clone platform is less reliable?

As far as accuracy and precision, APR stands behind their rifles without going through all the hoops that Beretta/Sako/Tikka will make you jump through.
 

z987k

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I have questions for all of you Tikka lovers out there. I've shot Tikka rifles a few times 2 shot pretty well 1 not so much. I dont own one personally(and I wont because the ones I shot didn't impress me. I have absolutely nothing against them, just not my thing)but a few friends and family own them and they don't swear by them at all its just another gun to them. Is this why everyone says buy a Tikka and upgrade it because there not great stock? Or are they great stock and your telling him to upgrade because of his budget? And if its just because of his budget and they really are that great stock. why waste the extra money? And just so everyone is clear not being an ass. Just very curious why just about everyone says "buy Tikka upgrade".
It's not that they are the best rifle out there. Far from it. For the money, by far and away they are the best rifle in the $600Cromo $800SS price range.
 
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