Southernfried
Lil-Rokslider
Username checks out lolI like my guns to not go off in their holsters, hard pass
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Username checks out lolI like my guns to not go off in their holsters, hard pass
FWIW - According to the interwebs - The unintended discharge issue was able to be replicated by an independent researcher that found that in their experiments, it was a certain combination of faulty parts (wrong take down lever from a different caliber (40 cal or 45 i think?) and some of the MIM parts) they were able to get a 320 to fire without pulling the trigger consistently and repeatably.
I personally have tried my damndest to get mine to release the striker by dropping it and smacking the crap out of it with a rubber mallet at all angles... all to no avail. I guess I got a good one?? lol Mine was also sent in for the recall a few years back.
If this research pinpoints the problem then the issue is the "interchangeability" of the parts/platform itself. They and we are victims of their own ingenuity. If you put a gun together incorrectly one would hope it should cease to function at all... But in the 320's case it "alters" the function in a very dangerous way.Ya, that was my understanding as well. Seems a stretch but man has it turned into an issue.
I would think that this would also be apparent in the pistols purported to have fired on their own (??). Seems like it would be pretty easy to confirm, especially on a pistol purported to have such and issue. I'd think the issue would be repeatable on said pistol and the problem would be observable, but it hasn't seemed to be (??)FWIW - According to the interwebs - The unintended discharge issue was able to be replicated by an independent researcher that found that in their experiments, it was a certain combination of faulty parts (wrong take down lever from a different caliber (40 cal or 45 i think?) and some of the MIM parts) they were able to get a 320 to fire without pulling the trigger consistently and repeatably.
I personally have tried my damndest to get mine to release the striker by dropping it and smacking the crap out of it with a rubber mallet at all angles... all to no avail. I guess I got a good one?? lol Mine was also sent in for the recall a few years back.
That HAS been a bit of a boogeyman here! But I'm unaware how much testing on those guns was actually done and if the findings were made public knowledge. I know SIG was able to repeat it in earlier versions of the gun (hence the recall). It IS worth noting that it took an independent researcher to be transparent about their findings with the general public tho! Another thing of note is that is seems a VAST majority of these claims are 2018 and after. I got my 320 in late 2015 or early 2016 and sent it in for the recall. It seems that there were very few of that era that had any issues at all.I would think that this would also be apparent in the pistols purported to have fired on their own (??). Seems like it would be pretty easy to confirm, especially on a pistol purported to have such and issue. I'd think the issue would be repeatable on said pistol and the problem would be observable, but it hasn't seemed to be (??)
Where does slide to frame fit rank in importance?
Form: I'm interested to hear more about this, and about your thoughts about this project in general, as well as the idea of buying an entry-level 1911 to 'tweak' vs simply buying something more mid-tier.It’s a feel thing only. No real effect on precision.
Another vote for Dawson Precision. Lots have a similar design, and I’ve tried a few, but I think Dawson executes very well, great sight picture. I think they are about the best sight you can get if you are not going with RDS.What aftermarket sights with fiber optic front and blacked out rear are preferred? Lots of options out there. Current setup is tritium front with a huge dot, wanting something with a smaller fiber optic.
So at that point, I was left wondering: if that's what it would take to get to a point of better handling, but still a loose frame, even if assuming accuracy was good, and I was then in for about US$100 all up, is that worth it?
I know this is not a fair comparison, as the retail prices will be far different in the US, and we don't have as much access to other 1911s here (mostly just Bul, Ruger, Tisas, and Tanfog).
Also aware that this is a bit of a 'value is in the eye of the beholder' situation. But I guess I'm wondering overall - if it takes a lot of effort to get to an 'okay' outcome for, say, half the cost, is there any value in that compared to just going with something known to work out of the box but for double the cost? I know above you said you'd be happy to carry the modified Girsan - but I'm guessing that, given the choice, you'd go with something higher-end and more proven?
Of course, in my specific case, I already have the Bul, so the Tanfog would be more an exercise in learning what it takes to get something up to speed, and the outcome would be something I think I'd still regard as a 'beater' gun, whereas the Bul, while clearly not a Nighthawk, Wilson, etc, is perfectly serviceable for my needs.
Thanks so much Form. For my budget and initial application, I think the 'right' thing from the start in this case was the Bul - which, to clarify, I'm happy with overall. Will try some thin grips to see what difference that makes.If someone has the money, it is generally better to just get the “right” thing from the start.
That would be a good use too. Learning what makes them tick is a good thing.
Also- have you tried different grips on your Bul? That is the only thing I can think of that would make it feel bulky.
1. What would you replace immediately to ensure good basic functionality?
2. What would you add to that to take it from 'not zero, but to hero' - aiming to improve both accuracy and reliability from the get go?
I got a Tisas DS9. I replaced the extractor(form had recommended this in another thread) with a Wilson combat bullet proof extractor. After I tuned the extractor, I now have 500 rounds through it without failure. I’ve done a couple other things to it but the extractor was the only thing for reliability.Thanks so much Form. For my budget and initial application, I think the 'right' thing from the start in this case was the Bul - which, to clarify, I'm happy with overall. Will try some thin grips to see what difference that makes.
As for a 'project' platform, I grabbed a Tisas, as I just couldn't get past how bad the Tanfoglio felt, and had a use case for another gun.
So ... next question: for something like a Tisas:
1. What would you replace immediately to ensure good basic functionality?
2. What would you add to that to take it from 'not zero, but to hero' - aiming to improve both accuracy and reliability from the get go?
While I'm guessing that you personally would do 1, shoot it a bit, before assessing 2. But as someone new to 1911s, as I 'don't know what I don't know', I'm thinking there's a case for just replacing the most important parts to get it up to speed out the gate.
In that case, I'm assuming 1 is the Wilson Bulletproof Extractor, and mags that work. Anything else for you - or anything worth asking the dealer's resident gunsmith to look at?
And for 2, I'm seeing wildly diverse opinions on forums, but the list seems to commonly be:
Thoughts?
- extractor
- trigger
- plunger safety spring (if safety not great)
- quality recoil spring
- possibly a firing pin.
And thanks for sending me down this rabbit hole ... I'm enjoying shooting the Bul, and really like the 1911 platform a lot.
Dawson PrecisionWhat aftermarket sights with fiber optic front and blacked out rear are preferred? Lots of options out there. Current setup is tritium front with a huge dot, wanting something with a smaller fiber optic.
I got a Tisas DS9. I replaced the extractor(form had recommended this in another thread) with a Wilson combat bullet proof extractor. After I tuned the extractor, I now have 500 rounds through it without failure. I’ve done a couple other things to it but the extractor was the only thing for reliability.
Edit: screen shot is Forms take on Tisas from the thread- Most reliable and shoot able 9mm semi auto pistols- post 371
Thanks! This is my first 2011 so everything is new to me.I'd add the Cylinder & Slide Ultimate Extractor as one of the best alternatives to the Wilson, if you can find one - proper spring steel, twice heat-treated. As for mags, one additional option has, surprisingly, been the MecGar mags. They OEM for a lot of gun companies at this point, and all the ones I've had the last few years have been as flawless as the best of any other brand.
Thanks so much Form. For my budget and initial application, I think the 'right' thing from the start in this case was the Bul - which, to clarify, I'm happy with overall. Will try some thin grips to see what difference that makes.
As for a 'project' platform, I grabbed a Tisas, as I just couldn't get past how bad the Tanfoglio felt, and had a use case for another gun.
So ... next question: for something like a Tisas:
1. What would you replace immediately to ensure good basic functionality?
2. What would you add to that to take it from 'not zero, but to hero' - aiming to improve both accuracy and reliability from the get go?
While I'm guessing that you personally would do 1, shoot it a bit, before assessing 2. But as someone new to 1911s, as I 'don't know what I don't know', I'm thinking there's a case for just replacing the most important parts to get it up to speed out the gate.
In that case, I'm assuming 1 is the Wilson Bulletproof Extractor, and mags that work. Anything else for you - or anything worth asking the dealer's resident gunsmith to look at?
And for 2, I'm seeing wildly diverse opinions on forums, but the list seems to commonly be:
Thoughts?
- extractor
- trigger
- plunger safety spring (if safety not great)
- quality recoil spring
- possibly a firing pin.
And thanks for sending me down this rabbit hole ... I'm enjoying shooting the Bul, and really like the 1911 platform a lot.
What aftermarket sights with fiber optic front and blacked out rear are preferred? Lots of options out there. Current setup is tritium front with a huge dot, wanting something with a smaller fiber optic.