1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

These are the sights on a prodigy. Took a lil bit for me to warm up to them. But that big sloppy u notch rear and a midsized dot up front have turned into my favorite pistol sights.

I have made the mistake of going too small on the front sight before. Even have a colt with paper sights on it and they just ruin that gun.....Gimme a big sumbitch that I dont have to look for. Sight in so POI right on top the dot so nothing is ever covered up... least thats how I like it.

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I've been a big fan of Heinie Straight Eight sights, especially the gold dot models, since I started shooting IDPA. A big ass front dot that you just stack on top of the rear dot makes for extremely fast acquisition while shooting rapidly, at the slight cost of precision during slow fire.

Not my picture but you get the point.

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I've been a big fan of Heinie Straight Eight sights, especially the gold dot models, since I started shooting IDPA. A big ass front dot that you just stack on top of the rear dot makes for extremely fast acquisition while shooting rapidly, at the slight cost of precision during slow fire.

Not my picture but you get the point.

I can see how that would work nicely! I dont generally like dots or anything on the rear sight these days. Also prefer the rear sight to be a bit more opened up than most. But I'd give those a go for sure.
 
I can see how that would work nicely! I dont generally like dots or anything on the rear sight these days. Also prefer the rear sight to be a bit more opened up than most. But I'd give those a go for sure.

Since I started running optics on pistols, I tend to stick to blacked out rears as well, but for irons these were the best comprise of speed and precision I ever found.

One thing I have been tempted to try again are the Ashley/XS Express sights. They were by far the fastest irons I ever tried, but they sucked for precision of any sort beyond about 7 yards for me.

The ones I used looked sort of like this.

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Would anyone like to touch on the series 70 vs 80 internals?

Any reason one is preferred over the other? From what I understand 80 is theoretically safer while the 70 has a better trigger? That's what I got from a bit on Youtube, but didn't spend a lot of time there.
 
Would anyone like to touch on the series 70 vs 80 internals?

Any reason one is preferred over the other? From what I understand 80 is theoretically safer while the 70 has a better trigger? That's what I got from a bit on Youtube, but didn't spend a lot of time there.
Generally speaking that's true. I'm not an expert but have worked on a maybe a dozen 1911s, some with series 70 and some with series 80 triggers. I do prefer series 70 most of the time, but proper tuned 80s are just fine. Only issue is more parts to fail, wear, and require tuning.

Some series 80s are actuated from the grip safety (Kimber, for example) as opposed to the trigger and while not perfect, if had well tuned ones that are drop safe yet retain a clean and crisp trigger. Pretty much every series 80 I have taken apart has wear on the fireing pin block from the firing pin dragging (being out of tune) which, to me, indicates a susceptibility to wear and failure. That said, I haven't taken down any of the new staccato series 80s... I have had several of their 70s and they are fantastic.

1911s have always had the risk of inertia nd from a muzzle down drop. There are other ways to mitigate such as Ti firing pin and increased spring.

At the end of the day, if drop safety is a top concern or priority, IMO other platforms mitigate that better. But for myself, I'm comfortable enough to happily carry 70s like the staccato C.

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Generally speaking that's true. I'm not an expert but have worked on a maybe a dozen 1911s, some with series 70 and some with series 80 triggers. I do prefer series 70 most of the time, but proper tuned 80s are just fine. Only issue is more parts to fail, wear, and require tuning.

Some series 80s are actuated from the grip safety (Kimber, for example) as opposed to the trigger and while not perfect, if had well tuned ones that are drop safe yet retain a clean and crisp trigger. Pretty much every series 80 I have taken apart has wear on the fireing pin block from the firing pin dragging (being out of tune) which, to me, indicates a susceptibility to wear and failure. That said, I haven't taken down any of the new staccato series 80s... I have had several of their 70s and they are fantastic.

1911s have always had the risk of inertia nd from a muzzle down drop. There are other ways to mitigate such as Ti firing pin and increased spring.

At the end of the day, if drop safety is a top concern or priority, IMO other platforms mitigate that better. But for myself, I'm comfortable enough to happily carry 70s like the staccato C.

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Gotcha. Thank you.

This thread has worked its magic. Think I need a 1911. I've shot a bunch of them but never owned one to really put through its paces and get comfortable with. It's time.
 
Any reason one is preferred over the other? From what I understand 80 is theoretically safer while the 70 has a better trigger? That's what I got from a bit on Youtube, but didn't spend a lot of time there.

Theoretically is the key phrase. Technically yes- an original series 70 can fire when dropped…. Except it has to be at the exact angle, muzzle down, on concrete, from about shoulder height- exactly. The thing is, guns tend to rotate and fall where the weight is- the grip- first which will not fire an original series 70. In any case it is mitigated by a Ti firing pin and extra power firing pin spring. I am not aware of any legitimate 1911 being sold that doesn’t have those two items.
Even without them, it isn’t an actual issue. 1911’s have been used extremely heavily for more than 100 years and firing from being dropped is near unheard of. A series 70 with Ti firing pin and extra power firing pin spring firing from a drop in use is unheard of.

The P320 issue was that it fired when dropped a certain way on its butt or grip- muzzle up. Which is where pistols want to rotate and land on, and it’s muzzle up when it does so. Even if you could get a series 70 1911 to fire while dropped- it’s muzzle down on concrete- the only thing that is happening is some rock pepper- but it isn’t happening.



As for series 80, it adds a mechanical firing on block actuated by the trigger. A good smith can make an excellent trigger from a series 80.
 
I'm looking to pick up a 1911 on a budget and there's a local classified with a Springfield RO Elite 5" for $700. It lists "EGW Ignition Parts"...is that a worthy upgrade or something that may cause trouble later? I'm torn between this and a Garrison - I love both the blued and steel with the wood grips. I don't see a big difference between the RO and the Garrisons other than finish. Ambidextrous safety doesn't really appeal to me unless I'm missing something vital.

I much prefer the "classic" look over tactical, which has ruled out some of the other entry-level options discussed here. I have a P320 compact but just don't enjoy it that much. Probably going to offload it and pick up the 1911.

I plan to carry this while hunting/in the field, and I've already taken note of the recommended upgrades to the system once I have it.
 
I'm looking to pick up a 1911 on a budget and there's a local classified with a Springfield RO Elite 5" for $700. It lists "EGW Ignition Parts"...is that a worthy upgrade or something that may cause trouble later?

If done correctly, that’s a good thing.
 
If done correctly, that’s a good thing.

Speaking of gun parts, early on I had a string of extractor problems with them going out of tune, which I eventually learned came from improper steels and improper heat-treating, along with probably some geometry issues that weren't uncommon at the time. Then Bill Laughridge over at Cylinder & Slide came out with their twice heat-treated spring-steel extractors, and better geometries. And, problems solved. But I haven't seen them in-stock for awhile, and have been wanting to pick a few up as spares. Mentioned this this to a friend, who had some interesting news.

It turns out that C&S has completely discontinued them. And that they told him for their new custom builds, they're actually using exactly what you recommended here - Wilson's Bulletproof extractors.
 
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