Would you buy this scope?

[Dobermann]

Hey guys, full transparency, I haven’t read through all 170 pages and I know everything in the scope was designed for a reason but why push button illumination? Seems like it’s getting harder and harder to find a scope with a nice rotary on/off every other detent style knob. Wasn’t sure if there was a particular reason for this. Thanks

Do you know you can do a keyword search using the 'This thread' from the drop-down menu? That way, you can search for all posts about illumination, or just 'button' by either Form or Ryan. That will give you the full answer.

 

[Dobermann]

If the glass and coatings are good, why would you need a sunshade?

As @THLR said above, handy for rain. But I've also found they can be good for sun in some contexts - rather than the sunlight falling directly on the objective lens and the coatings having to do their magic for that to not be (as big of) an issue, better to not have the light hit the glass to begin with.

For two counter reference points: I think Jacob once commented that sunshades might cause issues given the longer leverage on the tube, and Franks said that ARDs/honeycomb caps can actually also work to mitigate glare, while not being as long of an extension. YMMV.

 

[Dobermann]

This reticle has some elements which I don't yet understand, put there by some very smart men who are far more experienced than I am. Do I say hell no and stay in my bubble of ignorance, or do I approach it with an open mind and potentially become a better shooter and hunter? Hmmmm decisions, decisions.

To @1000yards (and anyone else) - there's a lot that can be learned about this reticle without even having it in hand.

I'd highly recommend reading the ZP5 eval (Minox ZP5 5-25x56mm THLR Field Eval) and Q&A threads (https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/q-a-for-minox-zp5-5-25x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/) - you'll pick up a lot.

I think I also posted here in the last week or so to work through all of @THLR's videos on the reticle - and then do it all over again.

@nm.otter, that legend, even posted a direct link to @THLR's playlist: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads...5x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/page-11#post-4404919

Once again, Rokslide is now the largest repository on the internet about the THLR reticle ... if you read the descriptions of the subtensions, the use in practice, how it works as both a 'plain' mil reticle as well as effectively has BDC elements contained (if you want that) ... you can then get a good sense looking at some of Thomas and Form's images of the reticle over targets about what means what, and how you'd use it.

Part of the genius of Thomas's reticle is that you can put it in someone's hands, who knows nothing of the design, and they'll say things like 'This is great. It's clear, and intuitive' - while only knowing part of the functionality.

But once people know what the reticle is fully capable of, it's like scales are lifted from their eyes, and the reticle becomes something else ... it's like turning on 'advanced mode' or something.

 

[waspocrew]

To @1000yards (and anyone else) - there's a lot that can be learned about this reticle without even having it in hand.

I'd highly recommend reading the ZP5 eval (Minox ZP5 5-25x56mm THLR Field Eval) and Q&A threads (https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/q-a-for-minox-zp5-5-25x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/) - you'll pick up a lot.

I think I also posted here in the last week or so to work through all of @THLR's videos on the reticle - and then do it all over again.

@nm.otter, that legend, even posted a direct link to @THLR's playlist: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads...5x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/page-11#post-4404919

Once again, Rokslide is now the largest repository on the internet about the THLR reticle ... if you read the descriptions of the subtensions, the use in practice, how it works as both a 'plain' mil reticle as well as effectively has BDC elements contained (if you want that) ... you can then get a good sense looking at some of Thomas and Form's images of the reticle over targets about what means what, and how you'd use it.

Part of the genius of Thomas's reticle is that you can put it in someone's hands, who knows nothing of the design, and they'll say things like 'This is great. It's clear, and intuitive' - while only knowing part of the functionality.

But once people know what the reticle is fully capable of, it's like scales are lifted from their eyes, and the reticle becomes something else ... it's like turning on 'advanced mode' or something.

Those threads were super helpful. For my smooth brain, this modified THLR seems to fit my style of shooting/hunting. Looking forward to eventually having one (or more) on my rifles.

 

[prm]

To @1000yards (and anyone else) - there's a lot that can be learned about this reticle without even having it in hand.

I'd highly recommend reading the ZP5 eval (Minox ZP5 5-25x56mm THLR Field Eval) and Q&A threads (https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/q-a-for-minox-zp5-5-25x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/) - you'll pick up a lot.

I think I also posted here in the last week or so to work through all of @THLR's videos on the reticle - and then do it all over again.

@nm.otter, that legend, even posted a direct link to @THLR's playlist: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads...5x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/page-11#post-4404919

Once again, Rokslide is now the largest repository on the internet about the THLR reticle ... if you read the descriptions of the subtensions, the use in practice, how it works as both a 'plain' mil reticle as well as effectively has BDC elements contained (if you want that) ... you can then get a good sense looking at some of Thomas and Form's images of the reticle over targets about what means what, and how you'd use it.

Part of the genius of Thomas's reticle is that you can put it in someone's hands, who knows nothing of the design, and they'll say things like 'This is great. It's clear, and intuitive' - while only knowing part of the functionality.

But once people know what the reticle is fully capable of, it's like scales are lifted from their eyes, and the reticle becomes something else ... it's like turning on 'advanced mode' or something.

Thanks for links. It had been a minute since reading these. I forgot the additional uses for the box and shoot long indicator. Doubt I’ll use much, but they aren’t obtrusive so no issue. I do like the wind references. The fact that it is a functional German #1 remains my favorite design element. I like simple things…

 

[BjornF16]

Reads first post on a 170+ page thread, quotes post and makes reply, and walks away. Classic fng...

Jay

Trying to up his post count…

 

[nm.otter]

You quoted the original design goals…

Which really should be updated @Ryan Avery

 

[Mike D Texas]

A sunshade with lenght about half the objective width (ie shorter than a normal sunshade) is quite good for rain.

I wondered if that might be the reason.

That said, wouldn’t a hydrophobic lens coating do just as well?

 

[nm.otter]

Not while it's actively raining.

 

[Southern Lights]

As @THLR said above, handy for rain. But I've also found they can be good for sun in some contexts - rather than the sunlight falling directly on the objective lens and the coatings having to do their magic for that to not be (as big of) an issue, better to not have the light hit the glass to begin with.

For two counter reference points: I think Jacob once commented that sunshades might cause issues given the longer leverage on the tube, and Franks said that ARDs/honeycomb caps can actually also work to mitigate glare, while not being as long of an extension. YMMV.

A sunshade can boost contrast by keeping off-axis light from entering the objective. Also yes @THLR states good for rain on the objective. I also will paint the inside of the sunshade with flat black paint. In theory it can knock reflections down even more, but who know how much. Cheap and easy enough to do that I do it.

A hydrophobic coating though would still be great for the lenses. I got my objective/eyepiece soaked last month waiting in pouring rain for an animal to move out of the bush. It would have been nice if the water was beading off vs. using a soaking wet microfibre cloth to try to keep it clear.

 

[Redleg84]

Props to everyone involved with this project. Looks like it's going to be a fantastic optic, I can only imagine all the time and work invested to see it through.

 

[Tanner]

These look super good and I cannot wait to get my hands on one in 2-3 business years.

Just kidding… everyone calm down…

 

[Jmort1754]

I'm more interested in the time frame to get one

 

[OneGunTex]

Reads first post on a 170+ page thread, quotes post and makes reply, and walks away. Classic fng...

Jay

Got his 10 posts though! Off to the Classifieds!

 

[Bluumoon]

To @1000yards (and anyone else) - there's a lot that can be learned about this reticle without even having it in hand.

I'd highly recommend reading the ZP5 eval (Minox ZP5 5-25x56mm THLR Field Eval) and Q&A threads (https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/q-a-for-minox-zp5-5-25x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/) - you'll pick up a lot.

I think I also posted here in the last week or so to work through all of @THLR's videos on the reticle - and then do it all over again.

@nm.otter, that legend, even posted a direct link to @THLR's playlist: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads...5x56mm-thlr-scope.253284/page-11#post-4404919

Once again, Rokslide is now the largest repository on the internet about the THLR reticle ... if you read the descriptions of the subtensions, the use in practice, how it works as both a 'plain' mil reticle as well as effectively has BDC elements contained (if you want that) ... you can then get a good sense looking at some of Thomas and Form's images of the reticle over targets about what means what, and how you'd use it.

Part of the genius of Thomas's reticle is that you can put it in someone's hands, who knows nothing of the design, and they'll say things like 'This is great. It's clear, and intuitive' - while only knowing part of the functionality.

But once people know what the reticle is fully capable of, it's like scales are lifted from their eyes, and the reticle becomes something else ... it's like turning on 'advanced mode' or something.

I prob need to rewatch the youtube series now that I have the scope in hand. The aim short and longs dots are nifty. I, think, I understand the wobble zone marks around the aim short/long, not sure if they are related to a "normal" target size or just if it fits it hits. How to use the milling bars, I have some references and that isn't specific to this scope, but something I need to work on. The silhouette mil/ranging could be useful for hunting if I knew what size they assign to it.

 

[THLR]

The silhouette mil/ranging could be useful for hunting if I knew what size they assign to it.

It was assigned to combatants with slightly lower average height than western forces.


Put the dot top head, check which line is closest to armpits. Works regardless of angle.

In this case "shoot", otherwise AIM LONG// AIM SHORT and trajectory solves the rest.

It is not calibre specific, once range is set the fall angle/danger space of the projectile doesn't really change that much.

It's not something I believe in. But if you insist on being stupid and training your shooters with the range & front-only 2-4-6-8-1000 "stairs scale", at least do it this way.

You need to have an inkling where SHORT//LONG is on your trajectory and eyeball it with plenty effect for that target.

This is the slow version of the killbox/ center square.

I'll see if I can dig up the exact measurements, but it's not a priority so don't hold your breath.

 

[Bluumoon]

It was assigned to combatants with slightly lower average height than western forces.
View attachment 1015041

Put the dot top head, check which line is closest to armpits. Works regardless of angle.
View attachment 1015042
In this case "shoot", otherwise AIM LONG// AIM SHORT and trajectory solves the rest.

It is not calibre specific, once range is set the fall angle/danger space of the projectile doesn't really change that much.

You need to have an inkling where SHORT//LONG is on your trajectory and eyeball it with plenty effect for that target.

This is the slow version of the killbox/ center square.

I'll see if I can dig up the exact measurements, but it's not a priority.

I hope that is never useful to me…. Looks incredibly efficient. If it was say 18inches/46 cm reference, it could be turned sideways to range deer.

 

[TxLite]

I hope that is never useful to me…. Looks incredibly efficient. If it was say 18inches/46 cm reference, it could be turned sideways to range deer.

Primary arms did something similar to what you are describing years ago called the orion

 

[OneGunTex]

Looking at the Scope Interest thread, folks here are ready to put down $40,000+ on a half mil worth of scopes. That's pretty good.

 

[BAKPAKR]

I prob need to rewatch the youtube series now that I have the scope in hand. The aim short and longs dots are nifty. I, think, I understand the wobble zone marks around the aim short/long, not sure if they are related to a "normal" target size or just if it fits it hits. How to use the milling bars, I have some references and that isn't specific to this scope, but something I need to work on. The silhouette mil/ranging could be useful for hunting if I knew what size they assign to it.

Luckily, the “wobble zone” is not based on the size of my “wobble zone”.