I hope they sell a metric shit ton of them![]()
We see what you did there ... well played.
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I hope they sell a metric shit ton of them![]()
Unless @Ryan Avery comes up with a better name, that's what I'm going to call it, just to annoy him.That should be the official name for the scope.
Good points. I do think it's also a mistake to unnecessarily drag things out. I just know that for me if it's being positioned as groundbreaking because it's being properly tested, I don't particularly want to hear that we need to get production going to have them for next hunting season. Now I know enough about those working on this that it won't affect my confidence in the product, but not everyone has been on Rokslide for almost 12 years.I use that quote often. Usually, I also mention something about taking no longer than it takes as well...
I do think, in this case, the different elements in use are already proven based on other scopes LOW produces. Testing to make sure they work together in this specific implementation should be done, but it takes an infinite amount of time to find an issue that doesn't exist. If the standard drop test is good enough to say a specific model is reliable, it should be good enough for this. Nothing is absolute, but if it meets the standard, multiple times, added to, etc....it should be considered as passed.
Comparison with the Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x44mm.
Both at 40’ish yards.
Tenmile (note: it is not this blurry in real life- the camera just refused to focus correctly)
View attachment 1010996
S2H-
View attachment 1010997
The first thing that jumps out is the large difference in FOV between them. It’s noticeable. Also, while not as much as the photos show- S2H is brighter, crisper, sharper, with better colors.
Of course the difference in reticle is apparent.
Not to derail the thread ... but did your Loctite set up? A few of us here have had the experience of the side of the ring where the cross-bolts being open and blue Loctite not curing.


Blue set up in the ring caps, not that well on the cross bolts. 55"/# shouldn't be coming loose, but 230s at 3080mv in a 9# rifle with a big brake generates a lot of forces rear and in braking energy. Shooting 245s at 2980 had more felt energy in the weapon than my rum pushing 300s over 2800mv. That rifle broke a Nightforce, a Burris and a Khales.Not to derail the thread ... but did your Loctite set up? A few of us here have had the experience of the side of the ring where the cross-bolts being open and blue Loctite not curing.
Blue set up in the ring caps, not that well on the cross bolts. 55"/# shouldn't be coming loose, but 230s at 3080mv in a 9# rifle with a big brake generates a lot of forces rear and in braking energy. Shooting 245s at 2980 had more felt energy in the weapon than my rum pushing 300s over 2800mv. That rifle broke a Nightforce, a Burris and a Khales.
That was a typo, their spec is 65"/#, I did 65 on fix-it's, which wasn't a success, then even turned another 30° and 45° on the nut following. Unsure of where that torque landed.55in-lbs on the cross bolts is light. 65in-lbs is what they should be- minimum.
That was a typo, their spec is 65"/#, I did 65 on fix-it's, which wasn't a success, then even turned another 30° and 45° on the nut following. Unsure of where that torque landed.
Blue set up in the ring caps, not that well on the cross bolts. 55"/# shouldn't be coming loose, but 230s at 3080mv in a 9# rifle with a big brake generates a lot of forces rear and in braking energy. Shooting 245s at 2980 had more felt energy in the weapon than my rum pushing 300s over 2800mv. That rifle broke a Nightforce, a Burris and a Khales.