The duck pond on the front ring hoses up your screw spacing options for a direct mount ring/base. Pinning and just using 3 holes is the easy way to go. That said, the factory dovetail is the strongest connection option.I do wonder if UM could drill new screw holes for direct mount rings, was that discussed at all?
This is why I chose to use UM for rifle building and ammo dev. And anything else I can. Listening to Jake on the podcast I am pretty certain they are going to make things right by the customer and not fill you full of some BS.The documentation should have been better, but there is no free lunch chasing ounces.
@Rooseveltwrecker, if you're not happy with it, send it back to UM. They would swap your actions and refund you the difference.
I just got mine back, and it will probably be my only "lite" Tikka action cause I like my rifle at 9+ pounds. But I will be getting all of them Nitrited.
Yup. Different strokes I guess. Just because it can be done doesn't make it a good idea. Glad the OP is 'happy'.This is a hard no go for me, taking away 99% of your optic mounting choices to achieve 3-4oz weight loss......really putting yourself in a box.
Where is the concern-- clamping force of holding the rail to the action or shear force of 3 screws keeping the rail from moving forward and aft?Is one screw enough on the front for a rail? I'd want to epoxy it on I think.
Where is the concern-- clamping force of holding the rail to the action or shear force of 3 screws keeping the rail from moving forward and aft?
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Be something to take up with themGuessing you could ask them to do the other action cuts and not do the port cut?
Like not being able to mount a scope unless using 1-2 sets of rings…. RightYou don’t do a modification like this without knowing you’re going to put yourself into a narrow choice of options. People doing this mod are doing it for the weight loss first, and deal with repercussions later…and not complain about it.
Is one screw enough on the front for a rail? I'd want to epoxy it on I think.
Had the rifle and been killing stuff with it since before UM was a thing and wasn’t planning to switch rings or anything just was gonna bolt on what I had. Not saying they aren’t better then the talleys just didn’t know I was gonna be buying them to get rolling.This is why I chose to use UM for rifle building and ammo dev. And anything else I can. Listening to Jake on the podcast I am pretty certain they are going to make things right by the customer and not fill you full of some BS.
Also, they did cover this on one of the podcast episodes. Not that you should have to listen to it to know what you're getting, but the info was out there and now maybe just more clear.
Honest question- why would you choose anything other than the UM rings for a Tikka, esp if you are having them mod the action/bolt? Assume starting from scratch- I can see wanting to keep rings if you already have them.
I knew about it before I ordered. also did plenty of research on others and talked to people who have done the mod before. Can’t say I feel bad for you here! I understand what you’re saying on everything though.Like not being able to mount a scope unless using 1-2 sets of rings…. Right
It’s a great post by the OP.He didn't ask anyone to feel bad for him. He wanted to make sure others weren't caught off guard. Thanks OP for raising awareness and I don't think you're looking to whine or anything.
yeah that’s such a funny comment. people have been killing shit all over the world with talley rings since before I was even born. heaven forbid you wanted to keep something that worked for youHad the rifle and been killing stuff with it since before UM was a thing and wasn’t planning to switch rings or anything just was gonna bolt on what I had. Not saying they aren’t better then the talleys just didn’t know I was gonna be buying them to get rolling.
I think it would be fine. I took an unpinned but bedded rail off my vanguard yesterday and had to hammer and block of wood to break the bond. A pin plus the grooves on top of a T3 receiver wouldn't give me any second thoughts.
The vision rail slides over the dovetail and maybe uses threaded set screws for pins. I'd bet that is permanent if glued on.