Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Taudisio]

These aren't usually high volume shooters so I'm thinking red loctite would hold it well enough?

Wait a second… what is a “high volume shooter”? I’m going into my third pack of primers in the last year.

 

[gtriple]

That's still better than my SB tactical folder, AL buffer tube, and pistol brace which comes in at 14.6oz

I may try to design an ultralight 3D printed or aluminum folder.

 

[Thegman]

Wait a second… what is a “high volume shooter”? I’m going into my third pack of primers in the last year.

I should have said something like "high volume per unit of time" or "high cylic rate" or something!

 

[doverpack12]

I’ve come across the Samson gas blocks that weigh essentially nothing. Thought they were worth mentioning and can’t remember if they are back in the archives of this thread. You could even lighten it up easily but not worth it where it comes in for weight. I have one installed upside down and backwards to plug the gas port, just received a second for a different barrel.

 

[BART74]

What is the overall height of the Sampson gas block my Kaw valley handguard is 1.625 OD not sure the ID

 

[doverpack12]

What is the overall height of the Sampson gas block my Kaw valley handguard is 1.625 OD not sure the ID

1-1/4”
Grids are 1/8”. It’s touching the bottom line
This is a 0.750 block, I can measure a 0.625 but it will be calipers because it’s installed

 

[Taudisio]

What is the overall height of the Sampson gas block my Kaw valley handguard is 1.625 OD not sure the ID

Edit to correct myself, see below

 

[Dukhtr3]

Did you need to weld the screw or did it hold as is? These aren't usually high volume shooters so I'm thinking red loctite would hold it well enough?

I drilled my BCA to fit a plug under the aluminum gas block to stop the gas erosion. Got it done but it didn't go easy and it was a small amount of drilling. Maybe I need a much better/sharper bit for the job.

I used JB weld on the threads.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[BART74]

1-1/4”
Grids are 1/8”. It’s touching the bottom line
This is a 0.750 block, I can measure a 0.625 but it will be calipers because it’s installed

Thanks I appreciate it

 

[BART74]

It fits under my kaw valley pcc handguard.

Thanks

 

[Taudisio]

Thanks

Standby on that, I just looked at a photo of my rifle, it’s just in front of the handguard. I’m going to grab it and measure it now.

 

[Taudisio]

Thanks

It touches, barely. That could cause you problems ie. not free floated barrel. You could take a file to it though.

 

[BART74]

I've mostly used these as the lightest option: https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....iameter-aluminum-low-profile-barrel-gas-block

May have to cut part of the top off to fit under handguard depending on what you're using. I've noticed however that the aluminum blocks start eroding quite a bit over the gas port in 223s. 30 caliber UL-ULs tend to plug the port with copper pretty quickly so in that case, the gas block is just holding in the plug. Might work to turn them upside down and use the set screw to hold a steel plug in the port (small flat head nail might work for that). Otherwise, a steel gas block like @Taudisio used would probably erode a lot less in this application.

Probably too heavy, but have thought about using something like this as well.

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I picked up a 2 pack of those collars at the tractor supply out of curiosity and they are a little heavy but they will work in a pinch

 

[Jesseb]

Take an ordinary cheap .625 steel gas block and cut it in half discarding the rear half with the gas port. Grind the top portion off to get rid of the gas tube portion. Now replace the remaining front set screw with a pointed set screw if it is not already. Install the remaining gas block piece backwards and upside down so the set screw is on top. Run the pointed set screw down into the gas port much like you would into the dimple on the bottom of the barrel. I will model it up in cad and post a rendering if that will help. Or just buy a portless barrel

 

[Thegman]

Take an ordinary cheap .625 steel gas block and cut it in half discarding the rear half with the gas port. Grind the top portion off to get rid of the gas tube portion. Now replace the remaining front set screw with a pointed set screw if it is not already. Install the remaining gas block piece backwards and upside down so the set screw is on top. Run the pointed set screw down into the gas port much like you would into the dimple on the bottom of the barrel. I will model it up in cad and post a rendering if that will help. Or just buy a portless barrel

And I suppose if you're using the set screw in the port, a cheap aluminum gas block would work just as well, and be easier to cut.

 

[Jesseb]

If that’s what you have. I was figuring most doing this already have the steel unit and weight savings would be negligible. Surely anyone too cheap to buy a portless barrel is too cheap to buy an aluminum gas block that they have to modify….

 

[Thegman]

If that’s what you have. I was figuring most doing this already have the steel unit and weight savings would be negligible. Surely anyone too cheap to buy a portless barrel is too cheap to buy an aluminum gas block that they have to modify….

Don't bet on it!

Posted previously, but these are what I've used.

AR-15 .625 Diameter Aluminum Low Profile Barrel Gas Block

AR-15 .625 Diameter Aluminum Low Profile Barrel Gas Block by GUNTEC .625 Diameter T6 Aluminum Two Set Screws Roll Pin Included

www.midsouthshooterssupply.com

I think I picked them up for < $10 or so on sale. I cut the tops off but haven't cut them in half like you suggested. I like trying the idea of the set screw in the gas port, especially for these aluminum blocks. The BCA pencil barrels are so light and so cheap they're a great way for someone to get started, and with one of these, especially modified, they're still the lightest barrel out there.

 

[Jesseb]

If you carefully cut them in half between the 2 set screws, you could end up with 2 for the price of one! I think most of those use 10-32 set screws so get yourself some cone pointed set screws and loctite or vibratite them in. I modeled a dedicated part in cad and come up with about 5 grams.

 

[PistolPete]

Not my original idea; I got it from earlier in the thread. This is a much cleaner and cheaper way to plug the gas port, at least in the handful of BCA barrels I've done (probably wouldn't work for nitride barrels).

 

[Jesseb]

In its simplest form, 6 grams and pretty straight forward to make.