Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread

Have you been able to remove factory barrels with the internal wrench? I thought most people were having to use the wheeler external wrench to break loose the factory barrel.

I’m in the Denver metro and am considering re-barreling a 300 WM tikka to something lighter, so I may take you up on your offer.

Yes a few. Just soak the threads in kroil for a few days.
 
Have you been able to remove factory barrels with the internal wrench? I thought most people were having to use the wheeler external wrench to break loose the factory barrel.

I’m in the Denver metro and am considering re-barreling a 300 WM tikka to something lighter, so I may take you up on your offer.
I ruined an internal action wrench trying to remove a factory barrel. The one I bought is meant to shear off before damaging the receiver.
 
Are folks using true no-go gauges with their installs or doing the scotch tape layer(s) on the go gauge?

A 31mm wrench with 2 layers of paper makes a very effective external action wrench for taking barrels off a Tikka. Also costs about $30 on Amazon. Only issue is you can't set torque precisely when you are installing the next one.

Have you used this method with any difficult T3 barrels (vs the easier T3x barrels)? No concerns on the jaws flexing/slipping on that first difficult removal?
 
This is an awesome thread! I’m looking for an internal Tikka action wrench and 6.5PRC Go no go gauges. Thanks in advance.
My internal action wrench is being sent back to me. You're welcome to use it, can't help you with the 6.5prc guage.
 
Are folks using true no-go gauges with their installs or doing the scotch tape layer(s) on the go gauge?



Have you used this method with any difficult T3 barrels (vs the easier T3x barrels)? No concerns on the jaws flexing/slipping on that first difficult removal?
I first used a Clymer Go-gauge with scotch tape layers. The bolt gave a bit of resistance but it would close. I sent the barrel back to the manufacturer, they said the chamber measure tight with their Pacific Tool & Gauge go and no-go gauges. I ordered a set from Pacific Tool & Gauge including go, no- go, and a field gauge. I grew impatient waiting for the gauges so I rented some from reamer rentals. I reinstalled the barrel, torqued it and checked with the rental gauges which were made by Pacific Tool & Gauge. The bolt would not close.

I reassembled the rifle, mounted a scope and put it in the safe till I could take it to the range. A few weeks later the gauges I purchased arrived. I grabbed to rifle out of the safe, dropped the no-go gauge in it and the bolt closes easily like it's any empty chamber......

I think the only true way to measure is with a comparator case and compare it to SAAMI specs.



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I'm hoping to do the ole' T3x barrel swap. Putting a CTR barrel on my Superlite action. Would anyone have the necessary tools available to rent? (Vise, action wrench, wheeler wrench, go/no go gauges etc.)

Thanks in advance for any replies!
 
I’m down in Sacramento. Maybe we can knock both out in the same day.

I’m in Elk Grove and have a full set up to change barrels. Schedule is crazy busy but I am sure we can work something out if you want to get together.


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I’m in Elk Grove and have a full set up to change barrels. Schedule is crazy busy but I am sure we can work something out if you want to get together.


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That would be amazing. I have my action. Barrel is in the mail and waiting for my stock to ship. I did an MDT Factory second so thinking that might ship this week.
 
Based on the discussion from the Semi-Custom Tikka thread, I want to offer up my tools that I'm no longer using to others to remove their factory barrels and install new ones.

Here's what I've got and the cost to replace:
Wheeler Action Wrench #1 - $80
PMA Gen II Barrel Vise - $87
Bugholes Tikka Internal Action Wrench - $97
Torque Wrench (up to 80 ft-lb) w/ bit - $50
Some leather from Hobby Lobby

Full cost to replace = $314

I think some others might be willing to include go/no-go gauges if needed. If there's other items that are needed, feel free to post below and we can include them all together.

All of the above tools fit into a medium flat rate USPS box and cost about $15 each way to ship to the lower 48. So about $30 roundtrip.

The deal will be that the "buyer" pays shipping from and back to me plus makes a $5 donation to Rokslide to keep the Classifieds free.

If you have good feedback here, I won't charge anything up-front. If you are newer, then you'll need to pay me the full cost to replace prior to shipping then I will refund you once I get the items back.

I'm local to Charlotte, NC and can loan them out locally too.

Added the below queue so I can keep things in order. I'll give people 3 days to follow through and then move onto the next person.

Current Queue of Renters (in order of posting here or pm'ing me):
@lilharcher
@nrh6.7
@qotsa23
@chukwithak

IF YOU BREAK IT, YOU REPLACE IT.

Tools you need for barrel install:
  • A sturdy workbench
  • A pair of vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
Tools you need for barrel removal:
  • A very sturdy workbench
  • A pair of metal or heavy-duty vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
  • A rubber mallet
  • You may need some Kroil or other penetrant
Instructions (for both):
  1. Fasten the bottom of the vice to your bench and orient the top plate based on the profile of your barrel.
  2. Insert your barrel into the vice as far as possible. It works best not on a tapered section.
    • It is up to you if you want to use the leather or other tape around the barrel. PMA states on their site that the vice won't mar your barrel, but that is up to you.
  3. Tighten the vice bolts down to a maximum of 40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) per PMA.
For barrel removal:
  1. (Optional if removing factory barrel) - spray and soak the barrel threads with Kroil or another penetrant.
  2. Slide the black, external Wheeler wrench (with the flat parts on the inside) around the action to one of the two flat spots on the bottom of the action. I prefer the one closer to the barrel.
  3. Snug the wrench bolts up. They do not have to be torqued down hard. Just enough to keep it from rotating.
  4. Use a rubbermallet and whack the crap out of the wrench handle. I was shocked at how hard I had to hit the mallet to take the factory barrels off. Some are easier than others though.
    • If you are removing a non-factory barrel, you can probably just twist it off as long as it isn't Loctited on.
    • If you are having difficulty getting the factory barrel off, you can try using a breaker bar on the wrench handle.
For barrel install:
  1. (Optional) - apply an anti-seize to the threads on the barrel.
  2. Thread the action onto the barrel by hand.
  3. Insert the internal action wrench all the way into the action.
  4. Use the torque wrench to torque the barrel to your manufacturer's recommendation. 80ft-lbs (960in-lbs) is what my Proof recommended but check with your barrel manufacturer.
That's pretty much it. If you have any questions, let me know.

Disclaimer: You use these tools at your own risk. Any damage to your action, barrel, the tools, or any other components are not my liability. I am also not liable for any injuries or damages due to the use of these tools.
@gtriple

I know I'm a total FNG to the site, but I could really use your barrel swap tools! Like you, I just don't really want to spend the $320 for what will most likely be a o e time job...

I have NO problem with your terms and will gladly put up the deposit, donate to the site, pay shipping and treat the tools as I would my own.

I'm not able to PM yet, so hopefully this will suffice.

Thank you,
Todd
 
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