Threading a .30 cal Tikka t3x superlite or lite

My tikka 3006 lite is cut to 20in and threaded 1/2x28. I just measured a superlite the other day and it was .630 at the muzzle. .635 just before the flutes.

It's not possible to put 5/8 threads on a tikka forward of 16in.
So at 16” it would be ok to thread 5/8x24? Want to build a super short 308 to use suppressed. Going to buy a tikka compact and cut way down.
 
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I threaded my T3 Lite 300 WSM for a 9/16x28 muzzle brake to leave as much wall thickness as possible. Not sure if there are adapters available for what you would need.
Did this with my 7mag for a brake. Muzzle brakes and more super baby beast. The brake isn't turned down and is slightly larger than the barrel diameter.

 
So at 16” it would be ok to thread 5/8x24? Want to build a super short 308 to use suppressed. Going to buy a tikka compact and cut way down.
I could measure but I don’t think 16” would support .73” either, I think what he was saying is legal rifle length (16”) won’t support a 5/8 thread. I’ll let you know how close it is.
 
So at 16” it would be ok to thread 5/8x24? Want to build a super short 308 to use suppressed. Going to buy a tikka compact and cut way down.
I could measure but I don’t think 16” would support .73” either, I think what he was saying is legal rifle length (16”) won’t support a 5/8 thread. I’ll let you know how close it is.
Correct. What a lot of people have been doing it seems is threading 1/2" and having an adapter built to 5/8. One of the guys on here sent his off to a gunsmith to do that and it looked great. Can't even tell it wasn't made that way.
 
i had a 'smith thread my tikka 300wsm lite barrel for a 1/2x28 little bastard brake. that part went well.

first shot, the brake blew apart! not sure if the brake didn't have the proper internal diameter, or if he turned it down (skinnied it) too much to match the thin barrel profile. to his credit he bought me a new brake and i chose an area419 hellfire and i made sure to tell him to leave it fat.
 
I’ve posted this before but I just had my tikka 30-06 shortened to 18”, shouldered and threaded for 5/8x24 and it’s awesome. No stupid muzzle devices, no little adapters etc.
I have a 30-06 X-bolt that may receive a similar treatment, so I'd love to know if you have velocities with the 18" barrel. I'm debating between lopping from 22" to 20 or 19". Thanks!
 
I have a 30-06 X-bolt that may receive a similar treatment, so I'd love to know if you have velocities with the 18" barrel. I'm debating between lopping from 22" to 20 or 19". Thanks!
I’m getting well over 2700fps and close to 2800fps with my hand loads depending on what powder I’m using. These loads all use 180g partitions or accubonds.
 
I had my T3 lite in 300wsm chopped to 21” and threaded 1/2x28. I’ve shot about 500rnds suppressed through it with no issues. I have a qd mount/break which encompasses the threaded portion of the barrel. The only way I could see this being a problem is if the entire threaded portion of the barrel started to crack and break off (highly unlikely). I had my smith use a .224 break and open up the bore to accommodate 30cal. This way I’m not dealing with adapters. I plan to rebarrel at some point and the new barrel will be threaded 5/8x24.
 
i had a 'smith thread my tikka 300wsm lite barrel for a 1/2x28 little bastard brake. that part went well.

first shot, the brake blew apart! not sure if the brake didn't have the proper internal diameter, or if he turned it down (skinnied it) too much to match the thin barrel profile. to his credit he bought me a new brake and i chose an area419 hellfire and i made sure to tell him to leave it fat.
That sounds like the brake was designed for a smaller caliber than you were using.
 
If you go with the 1/2x28 threading, you’ll need this $30 part. Easy Peasy.

Good Luck


I’ve posted this before but I just had my tikka 30-06 shortened to 18”, shouldered and threaded for 5/8x24 and it’s awesome. No stupid muzzle devices, no little adapters etc.

I don’t understand why you can’t just thread it, 5/8x24 is 5/8x24, you either have enough steel to make a 5/8x24 thread or not. If you have at least the major diameter (.623 on the tbac drawing) and you cut it to 1/2 and then add an adapter, you’ve cut away steel and then threaded it back on to make 5/8x24.

Am I missing something? The amount of metal between the inside of the barrel and the bottom of the thread grooves may actually be worse now because there is some “space” between the adapter and barrel, enough to slide it. I feel like I must be missing a mechanical concept or not thinking of something with the rifle.
 
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I don’t understand why you can’t just thread it, 5/8x24 is 5/8x24, you either have enough steel to make a 5/8x24 thread or not. If you have at least the major diameter (.623 on the tbac drawing) and you cut it to 1/2 and then add an adapter, you’ve cut away steel and then threaded it back on to make 5/8x24.

Am I missing something? The amount of metal between the inside of the barrel and the bottom of the thread grooves may actually be worse now because there is some “space” between the adapter and barrel, enough to slide it. I feel like I must be missing a mechanical concept or not thinking of something with the rifle.
There’s no reason you can’t thread to 1/2x28 and then use an adapter. Lots of people do it, thunderbeast dosent recommend it though. Their reasoning is that the barrel thickness near the shoulder is too fragile and a small amount of torque could break it there.

As an alternative a hood gunsmith can build a shoulder and let you use a different thread pattern.
 
There’s no reason you can’t thread to 1/2x28 and then use an adapter. Lots of people do it, thunderbeast dosent recommend it though. Their reasoning is that the barrel thickness near the shoulder is too fragile and a small amount of torque could break it there.

As an alternative a hood gunsmith can build a shoulder and let you use a different thread pattern.
My point is, how is the adapter different than if you just cut the threads, either way you have as much metal as 5/8x24 dimensions - your caliber.
 
Can a tikka t3x lite or superlite in .30 cal get threaded for use with a supressor?

Been doing research and I am seeing a lot of folks say that with a OD of .630" like on the lite and superlite you need to do 1/2-28 then other folks say 1/2-28 doesn't leave enough meat on the barrel for a 0.30cal.

I called my gunsmith but he has not gotten back to me. If I am left with no good options my next idea is either selling the guns and buying ones that are threaded or replacing the barrels and just customizing it to my liking. I am on a budget, so if I need to replace barrels to get the suppressor option I will have to sit for a while and save up the money. In the meantime these tikkas shoot great...

Thanks!
The simple answer to your question is yes you can but it's not recommended. I had been planning to do exactly the same thing, Tikka T3x lite in .308, cut to 18" and thread it to run a can. People say they do it all the time, but in searching for this answer I have found that many times they haven't actually done what we want to do. #1, threading a .308 is not the same as threading a 6.5CM or a 6CM, less barrel thickness means not as much meat. #2, they have threaded 1/2-28 and added a muzzle brake. Running a muzzle brake is different than hanging a can off the end of the barrel. I called LRI and they told me they do not recommend threading a 30 CAL pencil barrel. They say guys do it but they have seen problems when it's been done. I run a TBAC can and TBAC specifically says they do not recommend using 1/2-28 threads with their cans. As much as I want to do it, that is 2 different reputable companies telling me I shouldn't. I'm not sure I can ignore that.
 
The simple answer to your question is yes you can but it's not recommended. I had been planning to do exactly the same thing, Tikka T3x lite in .308, cut to 18" and thread it to run a can. People say they do it all the time, but in searching for this answer I have found that many times they haven't actually done what we want to do. #1, threading a .308 is not the same as threading a 6.5CM or a 6CM, less barrel thickness means not as much meat. #2, they have threaded 1/2-28 and added a muzzle brake. Running a muzzle brake is different than hanging a can off the end of the barrel. I called LRI and they told me they do not recommend threading a 30 CAL pencil barrel. They say guys do it but they have seen problems when it's been done. I run a TBAC can and TBAC specifically says they do not recommend using 1/2-28 threads with their cans. As much as I want to do it, that is 2 different reputable companies telling me I shouldn't. I'm not sure I can ignore that.
I just had this done. Problem solved.
 

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The simple answer to your question is yes you can but it's not recommended. I had been planning to do exactly the same thing, Tikka T3x lite in .308, cut to 18" and thread it to run a can. People say they do it all the time, but in searching for this answer I have found that many times they haven't actually done what we want to do. #1, threading a .308 is not the same as threading a 6.5CM or a 6CM, less barrel thickness means not as much meat. #2, they have threaded 1/2-28 and added a muzzle brake. Running a muzzle brake is different than hanging a can off the end of the barrel. I called LRI and they told me they do not recommend threading a 30 CAL pencil barrel. They say guys do it but they have seen problems when it's been done. I run a TBAC can and TBAC specifically says they do not recommend using 1/2-28 threads with their cans. As much as I want to do it, that is 2 different reputable companies telling me I shouldn't. I'm not sure I can ignore that.
There’s a guy whom posts regularly here who had a tikka 30-06 threaded to 1/2x28 and uses an adapter for his silencer. He hasn’t had any issues. I did it for awhile before finally sending a few guns off to get set up the way I want them.
 
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